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200 Series General Forum for the Volvo 240 and 260 cars |
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240 soft brakes - please help!Views : 4893 Replies : 39Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 20th, 2018, 13:45 | #11 |
Senior Member
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Have you bled the master cylinder itself ? Some even have a bleed screw on, but for those which don't, you can still do it by loosening the pipe (obviously put something under it to catch any fluid that escapes.)
On the basis that air floats to the top, it can be hard to get all the air out of a pipe that goes downwards. I spent 3 days trying to bleed the brakes on a Transit once, and similar on a Cavalier. If you can bleed it from near where it is (assuming there is any near the MS), it might make life easier.
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May 7th, 2018, 20:02 | #12 |
newish member
Last Online: Nov 7th, 2020 23:35
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Location: London
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The good weather put me in the mood to do a few simple jobs needing doing on the car. One of them was to have the other half press the brake pedal whilst I listened under the bonnet...
So with the engine off, the pedal does go stiffish, but you can squeeze it with a few inches of pedal travel. Standing next to the master cylinder/servo I can hear a groaning /wheezing sound - that would suggest air in the master cylinder to me? A good local garage spent several hours trying to bleed the brakes (and only charged me for one bless them) and the brakes are no better So I am at a bit of a loss at the mo and the car is only good for low speed local journeys - I simply wouldn't drive it on a motorway, the brakes are that weak Any further thoughts? |
May 7th, 2018, 20:13 | #13 |
Trader Volvo in my veins
Last Online: Yesterday 22:41
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Location: Anglesey
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The wheezing is most likley just the normal sound. Have a go with any other car fitted with a servo and it will almost certainly make the same kind of sound.
Do you have brake hose clamps? |
May 7th, 2018, 20:26 | #14 |
newish member
Last Online: Nov 7th, 2020 23:35
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Hi Dai
What a saga! So look I understand the braking system, but I have no experience whatsoever with hydraulics. I am contemplating a visit to Anglesey - seriously! Just it's a lot of miles from here and the brakes ain't hot! If I had brake hose clamps, would you suggest I went round clamping each hose (pair of hoses) and seeing what happens? Am I doing this with the engine running or off or doesn't it matter? BTW, should the bleed screws be on the top side of the calipers when they are in place on the car? I had a vague notion that they should be on the lower side... Having had all the wheels off today, all four bleed screws (other than the centrally located ones obviously) are at the top I don't want to start undoing bleed screws without knowing that I have a competent local garage who could remedy anything I mess up! That's my concern |
May 7th, 2018, 20:46 | #15 | |
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May 8th, 2018, 18:39 | #16 |
newish member
Last Online: Nov 7th, 2020 23:35
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Location: London
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Ah! Thanks - I knew I'd read something(doh!) Ok, well then we know that the calipers are correctly installed, just not what's causing the soft brakes...
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May 8th, 2018, 21:15 | #17 |
Trader Volvo in my veins
Last Online: Yesterday 22:41
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each front caliper has 3 bleed nipples, 2 at the top and 1 in the middle. You normally need to bleed all 3 rather that just the 2 top ones.
The idea of the hose clamps is to see if any 1 line makes a major difference. I suspect it is going to take a fair bit of bleeding to get the last of the trapped air out |
May 31st, 2018, 23:58 | #18 |
newish member
Last Online: Nov 7th, 2020 23:35
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Location: London
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Ok and breathe...
Thanks for input all of you. I know that one (possibly two) forum member will be relieved at the following news! So I have working brakes again I think that they need bedding-in - as in I just need to drive and get things moving and un-sticking but for the first time in 240 ownership I have experienced very light and very sharp brakes (neither dangerously so) There's some sticking (I'll look at tomorrow as I think it is a new pads and new calipers interface issue) but overall my confidence is back where it should be In the end, one last round of bleeding and a new repro servo unit courtesy of Brookhouse has done the trick. The new servo because the previous one was having an effect on idle speed which made me suspect that perhaps it was past its prime Bottom line is that the brakes work So a question: If you are supposed to change the brake fluid every two year or so, how the hell do you do it without the problems that I have had over the past 3 months, let alone a complete drain-down for a component change? Nick |
Jun 1st, 2018, 07:46 | #19 |
Master Member
Last Online: Today 12:00
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Location: London and Cambridge
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You don’t need to drain the system to change the fluid- use a pressure bleeder (you can make one easily enough, or buy one, any garage will have one) to push new fluid Through the system as you open each bleed nipple in turn.
If you use the above correctly you shouldn’t introduce any more air into the system, so no need for the system to be bled afterwards. Cheers |
Sep 30th, 2018, 00:29 | #20 |
newish member
Last Online: Nov 7th, 2020 23:35
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Location: London
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I spoke too soon didn't I!
The brakes do work, but... They are letting air in somewhere. Not quite sure yet, but I think it's only on 1 circuit. I'll take a squint around tomorrow and see if I can see any obvious seepage (have looked before and couldn't find anything) so I am wondering Presumably likely culprits are master cylinder (new, but not OEM) and calipers (recon)? Thoughts? |
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