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"Clonk" still there after replacing enginemounts

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Old May 10th, 2019, 10:52   #41
BarryCambs
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Hi Roger. If you do have any more info on these parts, I'd be very interested, as mine has always had a clonk, which has persisted even though the entire front suspension, including ARB bushes and I have concluded it probably is a sub frame mount issue Thanks, Barry
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Old May 10th, 2019, 11:01   #42
davebb
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https://www.ipdusa.com/products/8283...knocking-noise

I found this,
https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-...ol-arms-85377/

is this what you mean, Dave
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Old Feb 19th, 2020, 23:53   #43
R-P
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Solution (or at least it seems like it). Replace balljoint between control-arm and wheel.

Car failed (Dutch equivalent of) MOT due to too much play on the steering-ball joint.

Replaced it (those two words was actually a few hours work, about 2000 swearwords, some blood, unscrewing the axial joint* because the arresting-nut was pretty much fused onto the axial-joint-threading, grinding it off, etc.)
When reapplying for the MOT, they said the balljoint also had far too much play, but they hadn't felt it due to the steering-ball joint. Big disappointment...


The store managed to give me the M14 version after checking on the Volvo site that this is what is mounted in my Volvo (found by using the VIN). But I have the M12 version. At which time I just wanted to cry and give up. The pic above is the 14mm version as my nut has a conical underside and could never lie flat on a table like the pic.

Long story short: even though I am 100% sure the "clunk" came from both the left and the right side, I haven't heard it since replacing the latter ball joint...







* Axial joint: I had to unscrew this (you can *just* slide the gator enough out of the way to be able to unscrew it). Then I was able to put the locking-nut in a vice (with the axial joint and the steering-ball-joint still attached to it). After this I could unscrew the steering-ball-joint-arm (from the first pic) from the axial ball-joint (third pic). Once this was done, I could grind off the locking nut. This was all necessary because the poor Volvo steel and the Hazet quality 13mm wrench (both were to blame) were unable to get enough grip to unscrew either the arm or the locking nut from the thread coming from the axial joint.
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Last edited by R-P; Feb 20th, 2020 at 00:17.
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Old Apr 24th, 2023, 19:27   #44
R-P
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R-P View Post
Replaced it (those two words was actually a few hours work, about 2000 swearwords, some blood, unscrewing the axial joint* because the arresting-nut was pretty much fused onto the axial-joint-threading, grinding it off, etc.)
Damn, should have found this posting earlier: had to replace the OTHER steering-balljoint (steeringknuckle?) and the arrestingnut on this side was also fused to the thread, so after rounding the threadpart where you should be able to arrest it with a wrench... , I eventually just grinded (ground?) through the arrestingnut and the threaded part of the steering-knuckle into the thread going to the steering-whachamacallit. The eventually gave me enough play to get it all off.
Sure, there's a longitudinal slit in the thread now, but 95% thread should still last a lifetime.
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Old Apr 24th, 2023, 20:52   #45
john493
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The ball joint pictured with regular taper is for steel lower arms, fitted mid 2005 onwards (dates may vary) 14mm thread.

You have the conical seat ball joint, which is for the earlier alloy lower arms 12mm thread.

The steering knuckle (hub carrier) is different for the two types of ball joint.

Note - it can be difficult to remove the ball joints from the hub carrier - care is needed as the hub carriers have been known to break.
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Old Apr 24th, 2023, 23:45   #46
dikidera
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So did your clonk disappear?

On my old S40 2003, I believe my clonk was caused by a worn out output shaft of the Renault gearbox, it causes significant play in the inner cv joint.

Then I get an S60 Auto and there is also a clonk, turns out someone...had removed my driveshaft axle bolt...and there was significant play, the driveshaft was going in and out of the gearbox and/or hub when accelerating or braking. Once I installed a new bolt, the clunk disappeared. Although I did put a milk thread locker there.
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Old Apr 25th, 2023, 23:13   #47
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inner tie rod end? I never knew these existed until a dealer told me mine were worn. I have a clunk ongoing but still haven't got round to changing them yet
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Old Apr 26th, 2023, 00:06   #48
Simmy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R-P View Post
So what's next on the list?

Replaced all engine mounts bar the front vacuum/oil one (that was replaced 2 years ago).
So
- right-engine-one (old one looked perfect),
- top one centre (old one had some more play than the new one, didn't replace the left and right ones which attach the crossbar, couldn't find them),
- rear vacuum mount and
- the gearbox-anti-torquing one (which was Hutchinsons as I couldn't find Lemförder in the shop I ordered from, but clearly visible were still the top of the letters "L" and "V" from "VOLVO"in the part where someone had ground some markings away ).

The engine sits higher, the rubber stop between subframe and gearbox had 2mm clearing and now has about 1cm clearing (this was before driving off, so might have gone down a little). There was a distinct difference of about 1cm between the old and the new rear vacuum mount when sitting on the workbench.

All mounting was reasonably uneventful:
Rear engine mount was the hardest: we had a 14mm socket with a 1/8th (not 3/8th) extension and with slightly bending the steeringrod or whatever metal bar is smack in the way, with a tire-fitting-iron, it fit nicely. The bending is just a mm or so, so I consider this more than acceptable.
Getting it out was also a bitch, I suppose people without AWD will have it easier, then again, you Brits might have stuff linked to the steeringwheel rod in the way. I got it out on the right side of the rear-drive-shaft.

Started at 9:30AM, was done at 2:30PM, most of that time, my brother-in-law was helping out (also V70 owner). And by far most time was lost on (1) getting out the darn rear-vacuum mount (what joy this is going to be getting out the turbo, next project...) and (2) making sure I hadn't forgotten to tighten any bolts.

But the "clonk" is still (partially) there. So what's next? The suspension?
Edit: I hear it when accelerating mildly and if I brake hard enough it will do so again with the next acceleration. Might also do it slightly when braking hard enough to achieve said 'reset of the clonk'. It might be left front above the wheel, but that might also be because I somewhat expect it to be the strut somehow.

[offtopic]
I also tried adjusting the steering stops and snapped a bolt. Which idiot insists on putting steel bolts in aluminium?
[/offtopic]
check the top spring seats. the centre becomes un bonded from the spring caps its a common fault and a fairly cheap fix
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