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Does anybody bother undersealing their cars?

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Replies : 38

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View Poll Results: Do you underseal your cars?
Yes 23 37.70%
No 38 62.30%
Voters: 61. You may not vote on this poll

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Old Sep 8th, 2015, 09:44   #11
Harvey1512
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Has this thread been bumped from the 1980's?
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Old Sep 8th, 2015, 17:31   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green van man View Post
The Volvo no as the factory protection is good enough. Previous v70 at 15 years old was rust free underneath.
Land rover yes as factory protection is total pants on a mid 90s car. I use old engine oil, have used waxoil in the Past on a car only to find it did not stop the rust and worse made welding it very difficult as it caught fire with ease and flames spread very quickly. On one occasion welding front of car saw flames at rear of car as waxoil in box section had caught fire and it spread inside the box section.
I know people will tell me that old engine oil is very acidic but I don't care, it gets where the Shultz does not and stops the damp eating the steel.

Cannot vote yes and no in the poll so have refrained until you tell me what you would like me to vote. It's your poll after all.

Paul.
Hi Paul, I can't find out how to add more vote options to the Poll now it's begun, but you're ok to vote yes
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Old Sep 8th, 2015, 17:41   #13
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Underseal???

A daft thing to do. The slightest weakness/crack/chip in it and you have a nice wick-effect dragging the damp in. And once it's in, it takes years for it to actually dry out again while it nicely generates hidden corrosion.
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Old Sep 8th, 2015, 17:48   #14
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Not underseal as such, as the modern plastic stuff is so much better than the 'tarbrush' of the 70s and 80s. I do Dinitrol all the cavities, inside the rear wheel arches from inside the car and inside all the doors and bonnet and anywhere else I can stick the lance every 12 months. I do have a proper Shutz gun and cavity lance and a four post lift, so an easy job.
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Old Sep 8th, 2015, 20:35   #15
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Has this thread been bumped from the 1980's?
No, I've just started it. I was born in 84. I understand there's a lot of older owners on here but I'm one of the younger bunch. A lot of people still seem to do it.
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Old Sep 8th, 2015, 21:15   #16
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Jumping in - which is the better Dinotrol to use on an existing chassis that hasn't been treated before and is starting to show signs that it needs protecting - older land rover

Not sure if it is Dinotrol ML or ML3125 that I should use

Any suggestions or ideas?
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Old Sep 8th, 2015, 22:09   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvey1512 View Post
Has this thread been bumped from the 1980's?
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Originally Posted by Jonny5isalive View Post
No, I've just started it. I was born in 84. I understand there's a lot of older owners on here but I'm one of the younger bunch. A lot of people still seem to do it.
Born in '84! I was on to my second rust bucket by then and had a few more after that.
Back in the day a lot of cars suffered terribly from the dreaded tinworm, my Mini and Fiesta were both 'undersealed' from new but it merely slowed down the tinworm and both eventually went to the scrapper to gently fall apart. The first car I had with decent rust protection was a 1986 VW Passat, they used to flood all the panels with wax when they built them, since then the motor industry has generally improved with galvanising (nowadays it's possible to put a smooth galvanising coat on panels rather than the old 'hot dip galvanising' which left a rough surface) and there's a lot more things like plastic wheel arch liners to prevent the accumulation of dirt, salt and moisture under the car. My V70 has no additional underseal and even the wife's Nissan Almera had no extra rustproofing and was still in good shape bodywise at 12 years old which would have been miraculous for an early 80's Datsun.
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Old Sep 8th, 2015, 22:15   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wimorrison View Post
Jumping in - which is the better Dinotrol to use on an existing chassis that hasn't been treated before and is starting to show signs that it needs protecting - older land rover

Not sure if it is Dinotrol ML or ML3125 that I should use

Any suggestions or ideas?
I use Dinitrol ML3125 in all the cavities on the Volvo and it works well. It also has a pleasant perfumed smell so doing inside the doors and rear wings/wheel arches does not leave an oily smell in the car like Waxoyl does.

Several years ago my son restored a Ford XR3i Cabriolet, proper last nut and bolt to concours job. He used Dinitrol 445 stonechip under the wings and wheel arches and around the sparewheel well and it was very successful, leaving a dry factory finish. Under the floorpan he used 4941 black underbody, this was not so successful as it remains tacky and picks up the road dust. Even after 5 years it is still slightly tacky, with hindsight he would have used the stone chip under the whole of the underside. All cavities, doors etc ML3125 was used. All above applied with a Shutz gun and cavity lance. Still no sign of any rust anywhere
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Old Sep 9th, 2015, 14:42   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonny5isalive View Post
No, I've just started it. I was born in 84. I understand there's a lot of older owners on here but I'm one of the younger bunch. A lot of people still seem to do it.
Under seal, card board, news paper and isopon made many of a car pass its MOT in the 80's.....
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Old Sep 9th, 2015, 15:21   #20
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Al the new cars I have bought in the past 5 years I have not necessarily used underseal but I have added to the protection of the underside and cavities.

If you look under a lot of new cars and underneath the covers, the floor pan is usually covered in very little.
What I have done is take off all the underside trays and wheel arch liners and applied undercoat and top coat in 2 pack. Then I have waxoyled the lot before replacing the trays and liners.

I have also filled the cavities with cavity filler similar to waxoyl but thicker and applied through a gun.

I mean to keep my cars and have them keep the rust at bay for as long as possible.


I have also covered all the brake pipes in grease and every exposed nut and bolt as well. This should give me a fighting chance for any repairs in the future.
Funnily enough the 240 I bought eariler in the year had a similar treatment at some point in its life and the pipes are still in good order some 26 years later.
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