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Does anybody bother undersealing their cars?Views : 4290 Replies : 38Users Viewing This Thread : |
View Poll Results: Do you underseal your cars? | |||
Yes | 23 | 37.70% | |
No | 38 | 62.30% | |
Voters: 61. You may not vote on this poll |
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Sep 8th, 2015, 09:44 | #11 |
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Has this thread been bumped from the 1980's?
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Sep 8th, 2015, 17:31 | #12 | |
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Quote:
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S60 D5 SE 163 manual, 2005, 169k miles. My first Volvo and I love it! S80 D5 SE Lux auto, 2006, 75k miles. My dad's first Volvo and he also loves it! |
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Sep 8th, 2015, 17:41 | #13 |
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Underseal???
A daft thing to do. The slightest weakness/crack/chip in it and you have a nice wick-effect dragging the damp in. And once it's in, it takes years for it to actually dry out again while it nicely generates hidden corrosion.
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Sep 8th, 2015, 17:48 | #14 |
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Not underseal as such, as the modern plastic stuff is so much better than the 'tarbrush' of the 70s and 80s. I do Dinitrol all the cavities, inside the rear wheel arches from inside the car and inside all the doors and bonnet and anywhere else I can stick the lance every 12 months. I do have a proper Shutz gun and cavity lance and a four post lift, so an easy job.
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Sep 8th, 2015, 20:35 | #15 |
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No, I've just started it. I was born in 84. I understand there's a lot of older owners on here but I'm one of the younger bunch. A lot of people still seem to do it.
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S60 D5 SE 163 manual, 2005, 169k miles. My first Volvo and I love it! S80 D5 SE Lux auto, 2006, 75k miles. My dad's first Volvo and he also loves it! |
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Sep 8th, 2015, 21:15 | #16 |
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Jumping in - which is the better Dinotrol to use on an existing chassis that hasn't been treated before and is starting to show signs that it needs protecting - older land rover
Not sure if it is Dinotrol ML or ML3125 that I should use Any suggestions or ideas?
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Sep 8th, 2015, 22:09 | #17 | |
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Back in the day a lot of cars suffered terribly from the dreaded tinworm, my Mini and Fiesta were both 'undersealed' from new but it merely slowed down the tinworm and both eventually went to the scrapper to gently fall apart. The first car I had with decent rust protection was a 1986 VW Passat, they used to flood all the panels with wax when they built them, since then the motor industry has generally improved with galvanising (nowadays it's possible to put a smooth galvanising coat on panels rather than the old 'hot dip galvanising' which left a rough surface) and there's a lot more things like plastic wheel arch liners to prevent the accumulation of dirt, salt and moisture under the car. My V70 has no additional underseal and even the wife's Nissan Almera had no extra rustproofing and was still in good shape bodywise at 12 years old which would have been miraculous for an early 80's Datsun.
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Sep 8th, 2015, 22:15 | #18 | |
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Several years ago my son restored a Ford XR3i Cabriolet, proper last nut and bolt to concours job. He used Dinitrol 445 stonechip under the wings and wheel arches and around the sparewheel well and it was very successful, leaving a dry factory finish. Under the floorpan he used 4941 black underbody, this was not so successful as it remains tacky and picks up the road dust. Even after 5 years it is still slightly tacky, with hindsight he would have used the stone chip under the whole of the underside. All cavities, doors etc ML3125 was used. All above applied with a Shutz gun and cavity lance. Still no sign of any rust anywhere |
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Sep 9th, 2015, 14:42 | #19 |
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Under seal, card board, news paper and isopon made many of a car pass its MOT in the 80's.....
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Sep 9th, 2015, 15:21 | #20 |
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Al the new cars I have bought in the past 5 years I have not necessarily used underseal but I have added to the protection of the underside and cavities.
If you look under a lot of new cars and underneath the covers, the floor pan is usually covered in very little. What I have done is take off all the underside trays and wheel arch liners and applied undercoat and top coat in 2 pack. Then I have waxoyled the lot before replacing the trays and liners. I have also filled the cavities with cavity filler similar to waxoyl but thicker and applied through a gun. I mean to keep my cars and have them keep the rust at bay for as long as possible. I have also covered all the brake pipes in grease and every exposed nut and bolt as well. This should give me a fighting chance for any repairs in the future. Funnily enough the 240 I bought eariler in the year had a similar treatment at some point in its life and the pipes are still in good order some 26 years later.
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