Engine: B5244: Starter motor sticking engaged

[2.4TSE]

Having solved the baulking gearchange on my 2003 V70 2.4T with the simple matter of some lubrication I'm hoping that the next job only needs cleaning to solve and so is free in all but my time!

Since the arrival of cold and damp weather I've noticed that the starter motor appears not to disengage as it should; engagement and cranking is as energetic as usual but a brief sound from the starter motor unit after releasing the ignition key indicates that it is staying engaged for half a second or so.

I can see that removal is easy-peasy having got the airbox and turbo intercooler pipe out of the way but before I start:

Does the starter motor assembly easily disassemble for cleaning and removal of clutch dust and other detrius?
Any tips to be aware of?

Ta muchly,
2.4TSE

[swedishandgerman]

There's a tiny little wire on the back of the starter that gets manly. Sometimes at worst it makes the stater a bit sleepy to activate and needs a bit of a clean up. I wonder if the same is making yours hesitating to stop!

[Coventry]

Are you saying that the engine fires correctly and the starter takes a moment to 'let go' afterwards or that the starter 'lets go' before the engine fires?

If it is the latter, read this:
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=210915

[2.4TSE]

The former.

The starter engages and the engine fires as normal.
The stater then takes a fraction of a second longer than it should to "let go", leading to clattery audible disengagement.

[Alisims1989]

Originally Posted by 2.4TSE

The former.

The starter engages and the engine fires as normal.
The stater then takes a fraction of a second longer than it should to "let go", leading to clattery audible disengagement.

I am having the same problem on my 2002 s80, wondering whether it could be battery related

[Jim314]

A balky ignition cylinder or ignition switch can lead to this condition by failing to strongly and promptly spring back when the key is released, i.e., slow to return to Position II (driving position) from Position III (starting position) when the key is released. If this is the source of the problem you should be able to help by twisting back rather than just releasing the key.

The return spring is in the ignition switch on the opposite end from the key.

[Alisims1989]

Originally Posted by Jim314

A balky ignition cylinder or ignition switch can lead to this condition by failing to strongly and promptly spring back when the key is released, i.e., slow to return to Position II (driving position) from Position III (starting position) when the key is released. If this is the source of the problem you should be able to help by twisting back rather than just releasing the key.

The return spring is in the ignition switch on the opposite end from the key.

I replaced the battery today, and upgraded it to a more powerful one as thats what GSF had in stock, the starter motor only got worse! I have tried to remove the starter motor today but with no luck, my hands dont seem to be small enough to get in and around the front of the engine. I dont want to take it into the garage to have the work done but that seems like the only option left to me! AAAAARGHHH

[Jim314]

Why remove the starter if you haven't determined that is where the fault is? It may in fact be the starter solenoid sticking, but it may also be the ignition switch.

A relative of mine was complaining of intermittent electrical problems such as accessories not working. It turned out that the ignition lock cylinder had friction in it and was not allowing the ignition switch to spring all the way back to position II, the run position ,and so was keeping the accessories disconnected.

At first I could not replicate the condition because I handled the key differently from my relative. Without realizing it I was twisting the key anti-clockwise from the start position and in so doing was masking the fact that the ignition cylinder was not springing all the way back to the run position. Finally, once when I tried to start the vehicle the switch stayed in position III and the starter motor kept running after the engine had started. This alerted me to the nature of the problem with the electrics.

Unlike a Volvo, in this particular vehicle (2001 Jeep) removal of the ignition lock cylinder from the body of the ignition lock assembly was dead easy. I removed it with the intention of replacing it, but first tried lubricating it and that did the job. It has worked for 5 years now.

In the case of the Volvo ignition lock removal of the cylinder from the lock body is very difficult, and probably couldn't be done with the lock assembly in place in the vehicle. Apparently this is by design to be an anti-theft measure to keep thieves from popping the lock cylinder out. You might be able to use light lubricant around the edge where the lock cylinder meets the body of the ignition lock.

Alternatively one could remove the 'relocker' (cap, spring and pin) from the back of the lock body and spray in some light lubricant, but I would not recommend this unless one was certain that the lock cylinder was sticking.

[Alisims1989]

Originally Posted by Jim314

Why remove the starter if you haven't determined that is where the fault is? It may in fact be the starter solenoid sticking, but it may also be the ignition switch.

A relative of mine was complaining of intermittent electrical problems such as accessories not working. It turned out that the ignition lock cylinder had friction in it and was not allowing the ignition switch to spring all the way back to position II, the run position ,and so was keeping the accessories disconnected.

At first I could not replicate the condition because I handled the key differently from my relative. Without realizing it I was twisting the key anti-clockwise from the start position and in so doing was masking the fact that the ignition cylinder was not springing all the way back to the run position. Finally, once when I tried to start the vehicle the switch stayed in position III and the starter motor kept running after the engine had started. This alerted me to the nature of the problem with the electrics.

Unlike a Volvo, in this particular vehicle (2001 Jeep) removal of the ignition lock cylinder from the body of the ignition lock assembly was dead easy. I removed it with the intention of replacing it, but first tried lubricating it and that did the job. It has worked for 5 years now.

In the case of the Volvo ignition lock removal of the cylinder from the lock body is very difficult, and probably couldn't be done with the lock assembly in place in the vehicle. Apparently this is by design to be an anti-theft measure to keep thieves from popping the lock cylinder out. You might be able to use light lubricant around the edge where the lock cylinder meets the body of the ignition lock.

Alternatively one could remove the 'relocker' (cap, spring and pin) from the back of the lock body and spray in some light lubricant, but I would not recommend this unless one was certain that the lock cylinder was sticking.

Jim,

thanks for the information, my starter has gone from the starter sticking on to being very slow to crank and start. this first happened straight after the battery was changed. I replaced the old battery and the same thing happened. I took both batteries into the parts store and had their health checked and both were ok. The cranking is unhealthily slow now in my opinion and although the engine starts until it gets going splutters a bit and wont get up to the revs it needs.

My plan is to take the starter out and try it hooked up to a jump start pack to see how it is functioning. then go from there Ill also try spraying some silicone dry grease into the barrel to see if its the contacts there.

is there anything else it could be?

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by Alisims1989

Jim,

thanks for the information, my starter has gone from the starter sticking on to being very slow to crank and start. this first happened straight after the battery was changed. I replaced the old battery and the same thing happened. I took both batteries into the parts store and had their health checked and both were ok. The cranking is unhealthily slow now in my opinion and although the engine starts until it gets going splutters a bit and wont get up to the revs it needs.

My plan is to take the starter out and try it hooked up to a jump start pack to see how it is functioning. then go from there Ill also try spraying some silicone dry grease into the barrel to see if its the contacts there.

is there anything else it could be?

Bad earth possibly.
You can voltage test the starter earth during cranking and it should be less than 0.5v but having seen just how negligible it can be if all is well, I'd be concerned if it was more than 0.3v.
Removing and cleaning up the starter earth contacts is simplicity itself.