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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Volvo S40 2.0T cuts out, been to garage 3 timesViews : 8012 Replies : 6Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jun 15th, 2010, 15:49 | #1 |
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Volvo S40 2.0T cuts out, been to garage 3 times
Hello Everyone
I'm new here, found you while researching my problem. I have a Volvo S40 2.0T 1999 113k on the clock. For the past few months it had a problem where it wouldn't tick over, just went very low on revs and cut out regularly I had no money, left it for a little while until one day while driving hom on the motorway the power just went. Car juddered and wouldn't accelerate. Took it to garage (non-dealer) who ran it through the computer. Mass Air Flow sensor fault & crankshaft sensor fault, they replaced the mass air flow but not crankshaft, idling problem was gone and car ran brilliantly. I've not had the idling problem since. However, 2 days later (after about a total of 10 miles driven since fixed) the car lost power like before. This was on local roads, not on the motorway. I got towed back to the garage who then fitted a new crankshaft sensor, car still wasn't running right and they were stumped. The garage took it to a Local Volvo specialist who replaced leads and plugs, found no other fault and car ran brilliantly once more. A week passed, did plenty of miles, went on holiday to the lake district, drove around the lake district. no problems. Then, about 10 minutes after joining the motorway on my way back from the Lakes it lost power as before and had to be towed home 200 miles or so (saved me on the petrol) This is where I am now. An addition to this story. The mechanic told me that when he went to deliver the car to the Volvo specialist he noticed I was low on fuel. He added about £6 of fuel and car worked better. He said that this made him think the Volvo specialist would say it was the fuel pump, they never did though. He told me I should never let the petrol go down to less than a quarter of a tank, sounds like bullpoo to me but I know little about cars. My research on this site points to fuel pump also, but no mechanics have picked this up when diagnosing the car. Any similar experiences that can help me here? Last edited by thebigyeti; Jun 15th, 2010 at 15:54. |
Jun 15th, 2010, 17:07 | #2 |
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Been in a similar boat myself with my V40; used to stall and then had trouble starting.
Garages I went to replaced leads and the mass air flow sensor but with no resolution. In the end another garage replaced the fuel pressure valve / regulator and since then everything has been fine |
Nov 23rd, 2011, 13:52 | #3 |
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Hi I have the same problem with my Volvo S40 1.8 will try done all above and will now try the fuel regulator then the fuel pump and let you know what fixes it
Eric |
Nov 23rd, 2011, 14:24 | #4 |
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i know we can always say it is this or that
but the most common problem at that mileage is Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) about £130 with the "O" rings and then Fuel pump in the tank £70 on ebay or £350 from Volvo also do the large fuel filter under by the rear wheel about £14 If it starts ok when hot then go direct to the fuel pump If it hangs on starting when hot then include the FPR It will start cold whatever because of the temp. sensor so long as the fuel is there! Hope this helps?
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Nov 23rd, 2011, 17:41 | #5 |
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If there is a fuel sender filter in the tank, check if that is full of gunk. When the fuel level drops it can cause the pressure of the draw to suck the crud onto the filter and block the flow.
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Nov 24th, 2011, 08:13 | #6 |
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Hi, This sounds like the same problem we chased for a month or two.
Eventually we removed the fuel pump from in the tank to find the filter in the tank was almost blocked. The second filter on the output of the pump was as clean as.... I didn't even know the filter was there. Not mentioned in my Haynes manual anywhere. So a new pump and filters and all has been well for 2 years or so. The pump is a Walbro brand and it can be bought on ebay but be sure of the model. Good luck. Ian |
Nov 24th, 2011, 09:29 | #7 |
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Also what some owners do not realise with that filter in the bottom of the pump assembly that incorporated in the filter inside is a small one way valve and if the filter is clean but the valve not working it will cause the same symptoms as the crud!
The valve of course lets the fuel into that pot or container when the fuel swishes by and stops it coming out on a low tank when accelerating hard so the engine is not starved of fuel.
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