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09 V70 2.4D Euro 4 - Boost control issues

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Old Sep 15th, 2019, 19:03   #1
foggyjames
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Default 09 V70 2.4D Euro 4 - Boost control issues

Hi all,

My friend has a Euro 4 2.4D on which I've been trying to resolve some issues.

Symptoms: Goes into semi- limp-home mode - reduced performance on full load (after 3-4s?), but (generally) no text display. Full performance will return after circa 5s. I had these exact symptoms on my P2 Euro 3 D5 when it had overboost issues.

Relevant codes:
ECM-P200400 - Intake manifold runner control stuck open
ECM-P200A84 - Intake manifold runner performance - bus signal / message failures - signal below allowable range

ECM-P023484 - Turbocharger overboost condition - bus signal / message failures - signal below allowable range
ECM-P023468 - Turbocharger overboost condition - algorithm based failures - event information

Possibly relevant:
CEM-U030100 - Software incompatibility with ECM/PCM
ECM-U032200 - Software incompatibility with body control module

The car had a broken swirl flap arm (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=296940), which I replaced with a more substantial home-made replacement. This *may* have been the wrong length, but I reckoned to size it up pretty carefully. There's a chance this is a residual code while it sorts itself out, but it's a bit of a mystery as to why this is still coming up.

We were previously seeing both under- and overboost, and the car makes an audible whistle on-boost. A pressure test revealed a leak which appeared to be coming from the intercooler, which I have replaced. The noise might have reduced a little, but certainly hasn't gone away. The underboost code hasn't returned.

I am now focusing on the checksum error codes (which have been there since day one - while the boost control codes haven't, I don't think) in conjunction with the boost control codes, which now both report an overboost.

Thoughts:
1) Might we be seeing the results of a dodgy remap, given the checksum codes...? Increased boost, but protection not adjusted? It certainly pulls well until the boost is pulled back.
2) This is a Euro 4, so all sorts of complexity is introduced. Could this be an issue relating to the throttle body, EGR valve (which on some models has a bypass, I understand...?) or other nonsense I'm not used to (as, primarily, a Euro 3 dweller).
3) On a Euro 3, very few things can cause an overboost condition - only really a damaged VNT control solenoid, or stuck VNT vanes - everything else causes low boost. Any new overboost causes to be aware of on a Euro 4? My Euro 3 made some very odd noises when it was overboosting, so the "boost leak" sound might, for example, be weird induction noise.

Ring any bells to anyone?

cheers

James
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Old Sep 15th, 2019, 22:34   #2
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I'm having a similar issue with my d3. Same induction noise and boost through the roof! However requested boost seems to be far too high, it appears to be requesting 3.2bar of boost! It's blew a pipe a few times!
I'm interested to know how high your or others requested boost reaches.
Is yours a twin turbo set up?
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Old Sep 16th, 2019, 19:59   #3
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A 2009 2.4D is a 2.4 single turbo - essentially a de-tuned 185bhp D5.

My daily driver (2013) is badged as a D4, but is actually mechanically identical to yours. Mildly alarming to hear that you're having similar issues.

If you're reading 3.2 Bar from VIDA (in kPa?), be aware that that includes 1 Bar of atmospheric pressure. 2.2 Bar seems high, although I am minded to remember that the D3/D4 models make just under 300lbft of torque (the same as the 2.4 twin turbo D5!) from 2.0 litres with a very small turbo, where the original Euro 3 D5s made about 265lbft with 2.4 litres, a larger turbo, and circa 1 Bar of boost. Having said all of that, I would have anticipated the D3/D4 running circa 1.4-1.8 Bar of boost, not as high as 2.2. Pure guesswork, though. One thing I've found consistently hard to determine is what target boost pressure is supposed to be for a given engine. It was a real pain when trying to diagnose the overboost on my D5. VIDA doesn't seem to state it, unless I'm missing something.

It has been suggested to me that this could be caused by a faulty MAP sensor (on the intercooler).

Is your induction noise a squeal, or like this (from my ex- overboosting Euro 3)...?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JPssQK1ogs

cheers

James
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Old Sep 16th, 2019, 20:01   #4
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...I could datalog my D4 to give you your answer (re: target boost pressure), in the hope that some kind soul will datalog their 2.4D (163) in return, for my benefit...!

cheers

James
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Old Sep 16th, 2019, 22:41   #5
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I could probably target my euro 4 2.4d but it's a 2006 model s60 (p2) and its out on lend at the moment, I'm not familiar with the 2.4d in a p3 and unsure if it will be the same.
Is your turbo controlled with electronic actuator or has it got a vac line to it?
I believe my 2.4d is fully electric yet the d3 is vac operated with a position sensor on it.
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Old Sep 16th, 2019, 22:46   #6
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And no mine doesent sound live the one in the video, it can only be heard with the window down, sounds like a boost leak under load then when you lift off it sounds like it's fitted with a dump valve!
Also the only pressure sensor I can see on the d3 is on the inlet manifold, no sensor on the intercooler.
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Old Sep 22nd, 2019, 23:26   #7
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Interesting - my D4 (but nominally the same thing) definitely has two pressure sensors, and a stepper motor for the VNT control! If it really does have vacuum controlled boost, look for the filter on the solenoid (to let air back in, to limit boost!). Euro 3 techniques will apply.

The 2.4D in the P2 and P3 are nominally identical, although there are a few differences (pipework, etc). I would expect the boost pressure to be the same.

cheers

James
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Old Sep 23rd, 2019, 21:13   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggyjames View Post
Interesting - my D4 (but nominally the same thing) definitely has two pressure sensors, and a stepper motor for the VNT control! If it really does have vacuum controlled boost, look for the filter on the solenoid (to let air back in, to limit boost!). Euro 3 techniques will apply.

The 2.4D in the P2 and P3 are nominally identical, although there are a few differences (pipework, etc). I would expect the boost pressure to be the same.

cheers

James
Yeah my 2006 2.4d has the stepper control turbo yet the d3 is vac solenoid with an electronic position sensor on the rod. Filter is clear, mine seems to be more ecu related (requested too high)
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Old Dec 10th, 2019, 23:55   #9
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Little update - diagnosis complete, but yet to be fully rectified. Credit to Clayton's of Mansfield (authorised service centre) for most of it.
Three issues, in the end:
1) VNT vanes seized (contemplating a new turbo, given that it has done 227K)
2) Boost leaks - rocker cover gasket and/or the seal on the end of the swirl flap rod - neither of which had occurred to me.
3) It did indeed have a remap, possibly of questionable quality, which was exacerbating the issues.

The remap has been removed via a full software update, and the car is now much happier. It's possible to drive it at full throttle without ill-effects provided you keep revs below 2500 (maybe 3000 if you're feeling keen). I will fix the boost leaks first (because they're easier), and continue to ponder replacement turbo vs un-sticking of the vanes. Given the weather, the turbo job can wait...!

cheers

James
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Old Mar 11th, 2023, 12:36   #10
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I received a PM about this thread, and thought I should post an update.

I replaced the rocker cover gasket and swirl flap rod (and hence seal), but that didn't do the job. Further inspection of the turbo revealed that the issue was not, in fact, seized VNT vanes (they moved freely), but a failed VNT motor. That was replaced with a used unit, as genuine ones don't appear to be available separately to the turbo, and I didn't want to trust an aftermarket unit (given their price).

The car is now 95% fixed. There's still a bit more lag than I would expect, which I think is probably due to the VNT motor not being quite calibrated correctly to the the turbo. There is a software calibration, but I think you can always make a hardware adjustment...but I don't know what's involved in that. It's "good enough" now, certainly.

cheers

James
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