1800S Starter/solenoid

[Uplander]

Hi
I've got a few little issues so I'll post up separately. They all relate to a 1969 1800S.
I'm increasingly getting just a click when I try to start the engine. It used to be occasionally, now it's more often than not. It may click several times and then eventually it cranks over. Battery is good.
I'm presuming it's the starter motor or solenoid? Is it worth the effort of repair or is it best to replace?
I read somewhere (probably here) that a secondhand starter from a comparatively modern Volvo (can't remember which) would fit and crank the engine over better. Any advice much appreciated.
Thanks

Simon

[Ron Kwas]

Simon;

Sol may not be pulling completely so High Current Contact is not closing (Sol or supply voltage problem...check V at Sol Term 30 as helper tries to activate Sol)...if that's OK, HCC may be carbonized and not passing power through to St Mot... check for voltage at HCC output, which powers ST Mot. You need to determine which is the issue, action required will then be clear. See: http://www.sw-em.com/starter.htm

Good Hunting!

[Uplander]

Ron, my experience of testing voltages in this part of the engine is limited.
So, when checking the voltage at the in and out terminal as you suggest what sort of figures should the multimeter be showing?
Thanks

[Ron Kwas]

Simon;

I didn't mention any voltage values because the actual value is determined by state of Battery charge (and any reasonably charged level will allow this troubleshooting...a discharged Bat, whose voltage collapses under Starting attempt loading needs to be replaced/recharged...measure V at Bat terminals and have helper attempt to Start...voltage should not drop below about 8volts under the high St load, else it needs charging or replacement)...what is important is that there are no unwanted voltage drops across poor permanent connections, and that HCC is making a good connection when closed (V at term 30 equals V at St Mot input)...there is some voltage drop expected at the Battery under the high load of the St Mot, but we want to see full Bat voltage at the St Mot when HCC is closed!

Good Hunting!

[c1800]

Ron’s link highlights the need for good connections and ground. Simple test is to remove, clean and reconnect all cables to the starter, battery and ground strap from frame to engine block. If that is done and still have a problem you can then continue troubleshooting with volt meters etc.

[Uplander]

Removed, cleaned and replaced all connections to solenoid and starter. Battery cable and earth strap are all fairly new. Voltage readings at battery are 12.6, drops to around 11.6 under starting. Same figures when taking readings off the terminals. So all looks OK there and so far the problem hasn't re-occurred. If it does I'm presuming it will be a starter motor problem.
Thanks for all your guidance.
Simon

[Ron Kwas]

Simon;

Thanks for followup...your preventative work can never have hurt, and if your symptoms do not reoccur, may very well have sorted the issue, and indirectly "found" the problem (if not precisely).

12.6V to 11.6V indicates a Bat in good shape and at a good SoC... IF symptoms ever do return, measure Voltage at output term of HCC (input to St Mot) while helper energizes Sol and tries to Start...to see if it is a poor through-contact at HCC or dead spot in St Mot (rare!)...even just with a test-lamp would do, if you do not have your DVM along...

Cheers

[sleek lemur]

Hi, all. This week's problem is starting. Fixed my VStab (thanks again, Ron), but now she won't start. Battery shows 12.7v. I turn the key and nothing. When I turn the key, lights don't dim.

I read Ron's Diagnostics above, but am not absolutely clear on where to test. When is terminal 30 and what is HCC.

Thanks !

[Ron Kwas]

sl;

" turn the key and nothing" means there's either nothing to be had from a flat or poorly connected Battery, OR Terminal 50 of St Assy is not getting energized to activate St Mot (Ign Sw or connection issue!)...which in-turn pulls the high current from Bat and causes drop in V indicated on DVM or Headlights.

Notice that proper connections are necessary in all cases!

Simplest test is to short term 50 (bolt with Bat wire) at Sol to term 50 (out of Gear!!)


Source: http://www.sw-em.com/starter.htm

Good Hunting!

[sleek lemur]

Thanks very much, Ron. This turned out to be an easy solution. The green wire's connector was very loose and had simply dropped off its terminal. I crimped it to make the connection firmer and all good.