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What did you do to your x40 today???

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Old Sep 22nd, 2018, 17:51   #12681
gmartin
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Firstly new battery as the previous Bosch Silver starting to have problems giving enough current as I thought starting has been sluggish lately and the first cold wet Autumn day and no start. Amazing what a difference a new battery makes in the starting department. Bosch lasted about 7 years and 170,000 miles.

Then replaced the driver’s side electric window motor which packed up at the start of the summer so not been able to put my window down all summer. That had the potential to be a real pain of a job but there's a few good Youtube videos showing how to do it so was able to do that in about an hour.

Then decided to sort out the rear window wiper on my V40 which hasn’t been cleaning the rear screen properly for about 5 years. Followed the excellent guide provided by Gatos which sorted the problem with by filing a couple of mm off the wiper arm.

Think i’ve earned a couple of shandies now.
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Old Sep 25th, 2018, 11:44   #12682
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Well more praise for Gatos, be supplied a new master cylinder, had it fitted only to find there was a leaky brake hose on the front left!
Need to do the other side and get a new battery and all will be good again.
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Old Sep 26th, 2018, 22:31   #12683
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Heard a pop when changing gear earlier and no boost guage anymore, the hose had blown off the back of it, luckily we keep that sized hard plastic hose at work plus connectors, quick and easy remedy.

The T4 and T5 led units also arrived today, i already had blue T5s in the instrument cluster but they were only single front facing LED's and light output was pretty patchy, once i learned that the glass bulbs actually pull out of the holders i ordered ones that have LED's pointing to the side as well, they dont appear to be polarity sensitive either, unless i'm exceedingly luckily and got all 7 the right way round the first time.

The T4 ones in the panel above the radio were a little more tricky, i had to forcibly break out the old units as they wouldn't come out of of their holders at all, despite only being in there barely a week, fitting went something like, drop all 3 into the holes loosely (dont want to have to force them out if the polarity is wrong) plug in power connector, 2 out of 3 work, unclip wiring, jar the whole thing, all bulbs (loosely fitted remember) fall out, try again, 1 out of 3 works as no way of telling which way round i had them before, repeat about 4 times, time to have a cigarette and clam down haha,

Then i thought right, stuff newspaper down the holes so they cant fall out, ok good, 2 out of 3 working, turn remaining bulb around, still doesn't work, try another bulb, doesn't work, switch round, doesn't work, put first bulb back in, and now it works, weird, turn and lock bulbs in with correct sized flat blade screwdriver, lovely, then realise the info centre bulbs are still white, pop the bulbs out of them to find they're something even smaller than a t4 wedge, bugger it, they can stay white lol.

Overall, great success, the picture doesn't show the blueness that well, they're a really nice deep colour, and despite the camera glare, not over the top bright either, plus the dimming works too, which is a bonus.
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Old Sep 30th, 2018, 05:06   #12684
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Uh oh. I've been and gone and done a Clarkey, ain't I.

Gave up on Old Solid Reliable and fell in love with a T4. Now, I didn't know it was a Turbo, I just needed something which didn't have an engine management light on. And this doesn't.

It drives well, although there's a lot of knocks and bangs, all manner of wierd noises coming from under the car. So it's gonna need some lovin'. The interior is a bloody mess, lots of broken stuff where previous owners have tried to get into the dashboard to make their modifications.

Modifcations? Oh yes. A proper scotch-lock fiend, this one. What I thought was a rag for wiping down the oil stick was actually a protective skin for a relay. A home-made DIY conversion to twin headlamps, done only in the finest mains flex. Lots of blue, brown and green+yellow flex hither and thither, leading from a fuse-box branch. Whatever, it doesn't even work properly.

When pulled the relay out from hiding, I noticed one of it's wires wasn't connected. Reconnecting it put the side lights on, "ahhhh, so that's what that is then" while the engine ticked-over getting hotter for me to see the fan work. Fan never came on, but you know how good these radiators are, for throwing off heat. I gave up waiting, in the end, and killed the engine. Talking of radiators, "What's this ... Hmm, this doesn't look right. Wait a minute? Is this is a turbo?" Today I discovered the intercooler.

Switched off and locked up - bloody sidelights still on. In any switch position. Oh dear. So this is going to need sorting out. For one thing I'll be wanting to turn off main headlamps for DRLs anyway as I don't think it's a good. Whatever, I'm sure I can do better than this cheesey hack!

None of the fog lights work.

Can't seem to get the alarm to trigger, either. While fiddling with the key, somethig happened inside the driver's door so it won't lock even when the alarm does. Fiddling with the key some more I got it back to locking/unlocking again but clearly there's something wrong in there. With the alarm armed, unlocking and opening the passenger door does nothing except switch on the courtesy light. No siren though. The fob button for opening the boot doesn't do anything too, so no idea about how that works. And interesting alternative to the previous V40 though, if you arm the alarm with a door still open (including the bonnet) is waits for the door to close, then arms itself. Pretty neat, I like that, although it'll frusrate me when i need to "half lock" the car leaving the bonnet open for whatever reason.

It has climate control, which is a bit wierd. To be fair, the air-con doesn't sap much power, but it still necessarilly must manifest as higher fuel consumption, and i'd rather not spend petrol on air-con. Just a traditional heater suits me far better, but ... it's what it's got so it might as well keep it for now.

So lots to be done. Loving the automatic though! I always wanted an automatic, and the relaxed driving style really suits me. Constantly shifting gears, perfecting it, balancing clutch and power, in the right gear all the time, revs matching the power band, double declutching down, getting angry with myself for notbeing spot-on with it - I can do all that stuff but it's a pain in the neck. Changing down to accellerate away from the speed hump I've just had to climb over, then changing up to freewheel into the next one, I'm changing gear every fifty years, it's too much to ask for! I don't need to do that anymore, and it's bliss. Seriously, if you're tired of being stressed at the wheel - buy an automatic. Enjoy driving again. Plus I get to keep two hands on the wheel, although in practice I dangle the right arm out the window just because I can! :-)
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Old Sep 30th, 2018, 14:44   #12685
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It just sort of happens doesn't it, if it weren't for the fact that this had an 11 month mot on it and was priced at 650 quid I probably wouldn't have bought it, it was just too good to miss, although now I have 11 days left until the MOT expires, it's decatted and smokes like an old locomotive when it's warm and the rear foglights enjoy coming on and off again at will for seemingly no reason at all, unless I can find a friendly MOT man who's willing to overlook the emissions (doubtful in this day and age) then this will be a very expensive car month, so with that in mind I pulled all of the wood effect trim yesterday and made it piano black, I just need to give it until about Wednesday to fully harden so I can start the laborious task of hand buffing all the orange peel out of it, and order the little round push on washer clip things that hold the door inlays in, as I managed to break every single one.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2018, 06:27   #12686
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Ha, well, I've not been so lucky. I've got about two weeks to get this thing roadworthy! By the Gods though, it does shift, providing I don't mind the little LCD display showing me updated MPG figures dropping to almost single fingures.

During a quick left'n'right junction, I discovered the trailer indicator beeps have two different pitch sounds. This was confirmed when locking the car, there are two beeps forming a discordant jarring noise as the two different beeps collide acoustically.

A bit of investigation revealed another bodge job. Two sounder devices had been lovingly soldered parallel to the indicators, one each attached crudely to the back of the indicator bulb housing. I swapped those out for some from the garage shelf so it's a bit quieter now.

This just goes to show. I can envision an MOT tester testing the indicators and hearing the beeps, and thinking "Okay, no trailer attached, module works then" and satisfying himself the tow-bar electrics are working. Certainly I've never seen a tester actually plug into the towbar socket and test it, even though they have the device hanging there to do it. Worse still, even if he did - it might actually bloody work, so he'll have no clue that these beeps are doing nothing more than proving the indicators did recieve 12vDC. Whether the bulb actually lit remains in doubt. Which is illegal.

So I'm going to have to install my blue box'o'tricks to actually do the job properly. This will mean removing all the interior, and entirely, which will be a sod but necessary since I'll need to run cables through the floor. Firstly, for trailer split-charge and supplementary trailer electrics. Secondly, so I can utilise the dashboard trailer warning lamp - I'd rather not be beeped at, if I can possibly avoid it.

Well, I've had the seats in and out of the other one so often, I'm sure it won't take long. It also means I can thoroughly clean everything, because at the moment the car is a real mess.

I've not even tackled the twin headlamps yet. So I've currently got no sidelights at all. I need to open up the headlamp switch and take a look inside, because I have a sneaking suspicion there'll be a tangled cancerous growth of scotch-locks in there.

Turns out this is a Phase 1.5. This means all my comparisson data on headlamps between phases will be vital. Need to find all my images and diagrams and get them hosted again.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2018, 14:59   #12687
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bought these https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/2172876/ to fix my headlight will have a go at swapping them out at the weekend also stuck back on the two missing wheel thrims from the spares car
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Old Oct 2nd, 2018, 15:10   #12688
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Update on the Black Death (need a really cool name for it, not found one yet!)

It turns out it's a Phase 1.5, not a Phase 1. Which is a bit annoying, as there are several advantages the P1 has over the P1.5. For example, no second lambda sensor, which means you can drive around without a catalytic converter and nobody will know. Just put it back on for the MOT, and whip it off again afterwards. A less centralised and more modular build means you can swap bits out, or make adaptations. Little tricks like this make the P1 a sensible choice.

Whatever, it's a P1.5, so there it is. Began work on the headlamps today. Nothing seemed to work properly, no sidelights, no foglights, and this absurd relay.

Closer investigation revealed the headlamp wiring harness is original, not a modification. A four pin multi-plug with no signs of tampering, save for the inscision where some mush had put his scotch-locks. It was also interesting to note that the headlight wiring doesn't match the Haynes manual in any way, shape or form even slightly.

The Haynes manual describes a headlight circuit switched at it's negative end, and indeed that has been my experience too. There's no negative terminal in a Phase 1 headlamp. But there is in this one. The code is relatively simple to understand: White is left, Red is right, Blue is dip, Green is beam. I think, I may have blue and green 'round the wrong way, but the point remains.

Well, the scotchlocks are gone, but that left me with only one headlight. I notice from the murmur in the crowd that some of you can see where I'm heading with this, yes the ECU relays. At least, I'm presuming that's what it was. When I switched red and white over at the ECU end, the opposite headlamp immediately lit. So now I knew there was nothing wrong with the headlight wiring itself.

Now, fortunately for me, I have another ECU left over from a previous P1.5 I'd dismantled a few years ago. It sat on the shelf for that time, with no purpose since our P1 doesn't need it. But, just for a laugh, I compared part numbers.

To my astonishment they were identical. Well obviously I plugged it in! Immediately everything sprang into life. Even the rear wiper gave a courtesy sweep.

One fog light bulb is out. And one of the amber running lights. Apart from that, everything's working. Suddenly it's becomming a nice car again.

Sometimes you're the windshield.

Last edited by canis; Oct 2nd, 2018 at 15:14.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2018, 18:39   #12689
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So a relatively simple ish fix when there was the potential for it to be a complete arse then, it's always nice when things go that way, an interesting point about the lambda sensors you mention there too, as that must be the reason why mine has some kind of elbow joint between the rear sensor and the exhaust itself, must be some kind of signal trickery to fool the car into thinking there's a cat present I guess.

I've just ordered a 200 cell high flow one for mine today, and the cars going to have a preliminary look over tomorrow after work, then it's booked in from Monday onwards to solve it's smoke problem, hopefully then once the cat arrives I can get the guy to chop and weld the cat in while it's there, then MOT it as that runs out next Thursday, thank god for garages that allow you to pay it off monthly, as I can't see an oil thirst as bad as mine being a particularly cheap fix.
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Old Oct 2nd, 2018, 22:55   #12690
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Oh yeah, this is how bad the smoke has started to get, and this was only ticking over for as long as it took me to put my phone down and hit record, you should see it in traffic jams :O

https://youtu.be/ydKGWON8ZLc
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