240 General: Prop shaft universal clinks

[Mikelly]

Car is a 250GL wagon in reliable shape. Sometimes there is a "clink" - not a "clunk" - from the rear of the car when I let in gear, especially under load. This began a few months ago. My usual mechanic says that the problem is a worn prop shaft universal joint. The "real" problem is that he wants the car for two days. I live in a fairly isolated position with crap public transport (if any) and this poses a logistical difficulty for me.
- SO, how urgent is this, and are there any comments whatever on the prop shaft problem? I can bite the bullet and pay up, but it's the "two days" bit that is problematic.

[malb]

There are three Uni joints in the tailshaft, at the gearbox output, in the middle just behind the centre support bearing, and just ahead of the rear axle.

Removing the complete tailshaft from the car is about 1 hour, as is reinstating it. This is based on using jacks and stands to raise the rear of the car. It would be a bit quicker using a hoist.

The time taken to remove and replace the 'cross' in any joint would vary with facilities available, and it would probably be expedient to replace all three crosses. There are a number of different cross sizes available for the 200 series, matching the different forks used in manifacture. Unfortunately there does not seem to be a definitive rule o define what will be used fo a particular year, model, engine, transmission, axle combination.

I suspect that your man may be allowing for stripping the unit and obtaining the specific crosses required from a supplier not exactly next door. I have been lucky in this regard in Australia, as I have sourced my crosses via a neighbour in the past, and he has brought me a kit that will cover all eventualities, so that I could select the units I wanted, and then he has invoiced me for those units only. Your man may not be in that position.

Also, make sure that you sound is not coming from the rear suspension bushes before committing to the uni joints. Noise could originate from joints or bushes.

[Mikelly]

Thanks for the reply. It's very much to the point. What you say about the necessity to obtain the right parts does seem to be the case.
Trouble is, since the car has to be kept until the parts are obtained, it will probably be necessary for me to hire a car just to get home and back. Ouch!
By the way, I did think of the bushes and suggested that possibility when I dropped the car in but nope, it's a universal.

[Clifford Pope]

I would get under the car myself and waggle the joints and satisfy myself as to exactly what is causing the clink. In my experience a tiny amount of play can go on for ages, but once it starts to get beyond a certain point it rapidly gets worse, changes into a clunk, causes intense vibration, and if not corrected can wear the yokes of the shaft itself, not just the spider and needle rollers.

I would measure the offending one carefully, and the others (they may vary, depending on gearbox/axle variations). The important dimension is the width between the outside of the yokes. There are I think only two sizes, large and small, so you could then with some certainty order the spares yourself in advance. Then it would only be a while you wait job at the garage.

Depending on which joint is worn, you do not necessarily have to remove the whole shaft just to replace the one, because it slides apart in the middle.

Later gearboxes of course had a rubber joint at the front instead of a traditional spider joint.

[Mike_Brace]

There are in fact three sizes. There was a small one (same as on 140/amazon) used on a lot of 240s up to 1980. There are then two more sizes. GLTs, 260s and the later cars all used the larger one. Measuring outside of yoke should enable correct u/j to be ordered. Some cars have more than one size to complicate matters.

Mike

[Mikelly]

All the above replies are very much to the point and greatly
appreciated.

With prompt attention, I might be able to avoid unnecessary
inconvenience. On the other hand, I'm not too sure of my ability to
measure parts to the accuracy suggested. As for ordering parts
myself, I haven't the faintest idea. Which of course doesn't mean I
can't. It's all a learning experience.

On the other hand, if I can do this, then maybe the mechanic shop
can do the same provided I'm ready to make two trips? I'll try
talking it over.

In the meantime, any further comments are always welcome. And I
gotta say again, I am *very* grateful for the advice I've got.

[malb]

Originally Posted by Mike_Brace

There are in fact three sizes. There was a small one (same as on 140/amazon) used on a lot of 240s up to 1980. There are then two more sizes. GLTs, 260s and the later cars all used the larger one. Measuring outside of yoke should enable correct u/j to be ordered. Some cars have more than one size to complicate matters.

Mike

My 77/78 has 3 different sizes on one shaft set. Later cars with a rubber front unit might fair a little better.

[Mike_Brace]

The size differeent is considerable and its easy tell which you have.
Try this link - you should be able to see which is which and order them:
http://www.ipdusa.com/product.asp?st...hStartRecord=1

If you need more help just ask.

Mike

[Mikelly]

To Mike Brace, thanks for the latest link - it looks useful!

To all, thanks again. All that information has been very enlightening and helpful.

For the moment I'm hanging in, since it's not imminently urgent, and will see what I can arrange. When I finally get a result, I'll repost in a new thread.

Cheers..M.K.