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940 LPT 2.3 problems starting in damp

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Old May 6th, 2019, 21:14   #101
haymitch
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I took the car out for a test drive today - it started fine.

However, I now have another warning light! My code reader is now giving me the code 1-1-3. On the Volvo owner's club's code diagnostic page this is the fault condition 'Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or rich' and the cause is 'Mixture incorrect: O2S wiring fault'. My car has the Bosch LH2.4 ignition system.

I think I might now be getting to the second underlying problem with my car Does anyone have any idea what to go for next? My ideas are:

- Replace O2 sensor / wiring
- Clean grounds
- Clean / replace the MAF sensor. This was replaced by the garage with a second hand unit so may have introduced another fault.
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Old May 6th, 2019, 21:30   #102
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Originally Posted by haymitch View Post
I took the car out for a test drive today - it started fine.

However, I now have another warning light! My code reader is now giving me the code 1-1-3. On the Volvo owner's club's code diagnostic page this is the fault condition 'Fuel trim (lambda control) too lean or rich' and the cause is 'Mixture incorrect: O2S wiring fault'. My car has the Bosch LH2.4 ignition system.

I think I might now be getting to the second underlying problem with my car Does anyone have any idea what to go for next? My ideas are:

- Replace O2 sensor / wiring
- Clean grounds
- Clean / replace the MAF sensor. This was replaced by the garage with a second hand unit so may have introduced another fault.
Pull fuse #1 for a minimum of 30 seconds and then replace it. Take it for another drive and see if it comes back. If the engine is hot when you pull the fuse and the fault doesn't return until the next day when it's cold, there's a high chance the heater in the Lambda sensor has gone weak/failed.
I'd leave the MAF sensor alone for now as well, this "fault" has only happened since renewing the Coolant Temp Sensor for the ECU so the ECU is probably relearning fuel trims etc. However, if the lambda sensor has gone weak, whether because the heater in it is dead/dying or because the sensor itself is dead/dying it will maybe take a bit longer for the ECU to relearn.

What's the mileage and do you know if the Lambda sensor has ever been replaced since new?
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Old May 7th, 2019, 09:50   #103
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Cool, I'll leave the MAF alone and take it for another drive

The mileage is 123000 (1995 plate) Haven't got the documentation to hand at the moment but I'm fairly sure that the lambda sensor hasn't been replaced.
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Old May 7th, 2019, 14:53   #104
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The average service life of a Lambda sensor is 10 years or 100k miles. After that, performance of the sensor will drop off, impairing the performance and economy of the engine i'ts fitted to.
In many states in the USA, it's mandatory for an "Emissions Timer" to be factory fitted. It's role in life is to countdown from 10 years and 100K miles and when either gets to zero, it puts a fault on the fuel system ECU that can only be cleared by fitting a new Lambda and resetting the ECU fault codes. At one time this was a dealer only thing over there but i daresay with the wide availability of OBD-II scanners/readers/reset tools, other garages can perform this task as well.
That said, the USA have never really adopted the OBD-II system as they see it as "European only", as such many American cars may have the facility to plug in and read with an OBD-II tool but not necessarily reset everything.

That's "for information only" as we're not in the USA but gives an idea that Lambda sensors do have a finite lifetime.

If you have a look at this thread, it gives some information on which Lambda would be right for yours, especially as yours might also be a "change-over" car :

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...21#post2518421

It shows which letter to check in your VIN code to see if it's definitely a 1995 car or a "late" 1994 registered in 1995, surprisingly common!
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Old Jun 14th, 2019, 19:24   #105
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A quick update, the coolant temperature sensor seems to have fixed the worst of the non-starting issues. The cars been mostly fine for the last month and started ran fine in the damp weather we've been having the last week.

The car still struggling to start occasionally with an uneven idle. I think Laird was right when he suggested this is a multi-faceted problem.

I pulled fuse 1 for the ECU and the lambda sensor trouble code hasn't been coming back. Will post a Youtube video next time the car struggles to start (will look a right berk videoing every start in the meantime!

Last edited by haymitch; Jun 14th, 2019 at 19:29.
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Old Jun 14th, 2019, 20:04   #106
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A quick update, the coolant temperature sensor seems to have fixed the worst of the non-starting issues. The cars been mostly fine for the last month and started ran fine in the damp weather we've been having the last week.

The car still struggling to start occasionally with an uneven idle. I think Laird was right when he suggested this is a multi-faceted problem.

I pulled fuse 1 for the ECU and the lambda sensor trouble code hasn't been coming back. Will post a Youtube video next time the car struggles to start (will look a right berk videoing every start in the meantime!
Just to recap, since you've changed the correct sensor for the ECU (under the manifold), it's been starting easier? Also since resetting the fault code memory (fuse #1), the Engine Management/Lambda Light has stayed off as well? Has starting improved since resetting the codes?

Glad we finally got there, i remember you having previous trouble and then the CTS was changed (allegedly, except the garage changed the wrong one) and things improved for a while then went south again.

See how things progress and see if the hesitancy when cold improves with time, i suspect it will.
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Old Jun 14th, 2019, 20:28   #107
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I would say yes on both counts. Still not 100% confident it's completely fixed but it is better So I'll post a video if things are still not improved in a bit.

Thanks again for all the help! I think if it wasn't for this forum the old girl wouldn't be working again.

It's knocked my confidence in garages that's for sure. Most of them don't seem to have any idea what they're doing with these cars. Sadly, the only good garage left in my area seems to think the Volvo should be on the scraphead - I think they prefer servicing and making lots of money off new vehicles. They've been great with other cars I've owned but when I phone about the Volvo suddenly they're busy for 3 weeks.

I'm going to try some more basic stuff myself. Was thinking of giving the idle air control valve and throttle body a clean next. I think as time passes decent service at garages is going to become harder to comeby.
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Old Jun 14th, 2019, 20:38   #108
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I'm going to try some more basic stuff myself. Was thinking of giving the idle air control valve and throttle body a clean next. I think as time passes decent service at garages is going to become harder to comeby.
You're welcome for the help past, present and future.

Getting to know your car better by doing a few tasks yourself can only be a good thing.

Going back a couple of years, i asked a garage to change the diff oil in mine, even supplied the oil and some Wynns HPLS to add to it.

I was told later they didn't change the oil as there was already oil in it! Go figure as our USA cousins say!

Took me 2 years to get round to doing it, in between some wear has occurred and it's noisy and vibrates a lot. Going to be changing the whole axle at some point in the future!

I also have loads of "tales of woe" of damaged alloys by tyre centres using windy guns to refit wheel nuts. Now if only one wheel/tyre needs attention, i take it in separately (puncture repairs really), if it needs new tyres, valves, balancing etc, i do it myself. It often has to wait for various reasons but at least i won't be running the risk of yet more sets of wheels to be scrapped.
The alloys are only the tip of the iceberg, finding a good reliable garage that not only does what you ask but does it correctly is like finding a needle in a haystack.
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Old Jun 14th, 2019, 22:44   #109
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Finding a good garage is definitely tricky!

The main problem I have with DIY repair is space, but I'm planning on moving somewhere with some offroad parking soon so I can easily get the car off the ground
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Old Jul 17th, 2019, 19:09   #110
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The epic thread continues...was wondering if anyone can answer a final question to finish it off please?

The hot start problem I thought I'd fixed has returned. The cold starts are fine now which is something! When the hot start problem happens the engine will need reving for a around 10 seconds to a few minutes to prevent the engine from stalling, exactly as described on this page https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Hot...enceGuide.html

Rereading this thread, I'm wondering whether I've not given the car enough time to relearn the fuel trims and that everytime I tinker I reset the few trims. I've not driven the car much recently. How long does it take for the car to relearn the fuel trims usually? Is there anything you can do to speed up the process?

My plan is to give the car a bit more time to relearn the fuel trims (I had the battery disconnected yesterday) and then revisit the hot start problem if it still occurs (and maybe create a new thread!). So far I've tried the following:

- Checked Resistance as two pronged idle air control valve. 8.6 Ohms so seems fine. Engine idles slower when disconnected. I've cleaned the idle air control valve itself.
- Changed the radio suppression relay as I had one lying around.
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