Chris1Roll's return to 700 ownership

[Chris1Roll]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Exhaust looks good Chris!

Thinking about the funny 10s after a semi-cold start that should really be a hot start, both the AAV and Warm-Up Regulator (WUR) in the fuel distributor are electrically heated.
In the past, the best way of recovering a jammed AAV (usually get loads of gum deposited on in the closed/hot position) is to find a self-sealing bag (food bag type), remove the AAV and give it a seriously good bast from both ends into the pipes with carb/air intake cleaner and pop it in the bag and leave it in the freezer overnight. It should be open when you remove it, if so, give it a blast of carb cleaner again to further free the gum and fit it to the car, do a test start.
If it's still closed, give it a blast with the carb cleaner and see if it moves any - sometimes a thin screwdriver can be used to help it open, the bimetallic spring doesn't always overcome the gum/gunge. If it starts to move, give it some more cleaner and put in in the bag, back in the freezer for another half hour to an hour Usually this time (after giving it a tweak with a screwdriver to start the movement) it will open. Then proceed from the "should be open when you remove it" above.

Assuming this all works and you can recover the AAV, you should find that after 1 1/4 hours, a restart will give a raised idle speed for a few minutes until the AAV heats up again - it sounds like the WUR is working as it should as it gave a slightly richer mixture which you cleared by giving it some revs.

If all else fails with the AAV, many other cars use the same or very similar one, find the Bosch 0 280 xxx xxx number on it and do a search online (including ebay) for it and also look at similar numbers that come up as they may be suitable but open/close slightly slower or quicker, depending on the application.

Some good tips there thanks.
That logic makes perfect sense, it was idling low again at that point and it did feel to me like it was rich - but I didn't get out and sniff it to check.
I'll play with the AAV next weekend I think, hoping to do a couple of trips this weekend

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

On a totally different note, i recall you saying you binned the washer reservoir filter (the bucket/basket shaped thing that fits in the top, i have one of those going spare, i removed it to clean it and forgot to refit before selling the car.

I'll drop you a PM

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris1Roll

Some good tips there thanks.
That logic makes perfect sense, it was idling low again at that point and it did feel to me like it was rich - but I didn't get out and sniff it to check.
I'll play with the AAV next weekend I think, hoping to do a couple of trips this weekend


I'll drop you a PM

PM replied to, also had a quick look on fleabay and found :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164806966494

Not exactly cheap for a used one! I know there are a few breakers on the forum but K-Jet fueled cars are something of a rarity these days!

[Chris1Roll]

Inconclusive!
I removed the AAV from the car this evening, having not driven it since yesterday, and the valve is only slightly open:


I can use a small screwdriver in the gap to open the valve all the way, (pushing it upwards in the picture above) but when released it instantly springs quite firmly back into the same position.
This doesn't seem logical to me, I would expect the spring to hold it open and the bimetallic strip to force it closed...

I have blasted carb cleaner through it and chucked it in the freezer for now, so I'll see what it looks like tomorrow.

I suppose I could try putting a piece of straight pipe in its place and see if that gives me a sensible cold start idle speed.



I gave the car it it's first vacuum out and found a wet drivers carpet - the quarter back towards the seat and door - I felt around under the matrix on both sides the same as I did when I looked at it and it was all dry there
I couldn't leave it uninvestigated so off with the panel above the pedals.
Ah.

crusty redness from the old incorrect coolant and a slight tinge of the new blue stuff it is running now.
The carpet immediately below the valve is also dry - it must be running down behind and then only surfacing in the position I found the wetness in, which is how I missed it when buying it. (tbh I'd still have bought it).
(That's not crustyness on the matrix in the photo, it looks like some dried adhesive of some sort)
It hasn't lost any measurable amount of coolant since I've been driving it, but of course the vavle has had no flow through it being closed, its probably a different story with the heating on.

Of course, you can't get these any more, so I will have to do some improvising!

First things first, set the car to "summer mode" with a nice 16mm brass barbed fitting:

tbh it took more time to find a way to secure the now 'loose' pipes so they weren't rubbing on anything than it did to loop them together. It's not pretty but it works.

Then get this valve out. To remove, unclip the spring clip from the outer part of the bowden cable then twist the valve 90 degrees and pull it towards you, then unclip the inner part of the cable.
You do not need to remove the nuts in the engine bay holding the metal plate to the bulkhead.

Now I know what it looks like and the rough size I can try and find something (preferrably a metal one) that will do the job but still use the car in the meantime.




In other news, we did 150 miles in it over the weekend, including a just under 100 mile round trip down to the donkey sanctuary at Sidmouth yesterday, taking the back roads from Taunton up over Blagdon Hill, through Smeatharpe etc, and it didn't miss a beat Starting to get my confidence that the kissed valces should be fine, although I'm not taking it for my business meetings as I did one junction on the motorway and discovered at 65+ that the front tyres desperately need balancing! I think 100 miles of that would be tiring.

[360beast]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heater-Co...-127635-2958-0

This is the one people have been buying for RHD cars

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=321954

[Chris1Roll]

Well there's next months budget gone!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Chris1Roll

Well there's next months budget gone!

I believe a Mk1 Golf heater valve can be used with some minor modifications as well.
Much cheaper!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173629434018

[Chris1Roll]

After a night in the freezer, the valve had opened up a bit more.

Once it was refitted to the car, and bearing in mind it had been chilled to -20, it gave me a ~900 rpm idle - higher than previous but not enough if it was actually -20 outside! (It sounded better too, less piston slap at a sensible idle speed)
That then dropped to about 6-700 after a couple of minutes as I presume the bimetallic bits did their thing and then as the engine itself warmed up it started to rise again.
I didn't have a piece of pipe to had the right size to try it completely out of the system.
I've read about adjusting them by loosening the nut and adjusting the slide so that it opens more (or less, as required) when cold.
I may have a go at that, I guess I'd want to get it to say 1000rpm on a cold start in the summer, which should give ~1200 in the winter when it should naturally be open further.

Then I was thinking perhaps a more reliable solution would be to put a manual valve (probably a heater control valve with the correct size bore) on a choke cable.
Turns out people have already thought of that, some have done homebrew versions like I was thinking of, and there are also some 'off the shelf' solutions.

https://www.alfabb.com/threads/atten...-setup.157697/
(there are some interesting pictures of the aav dismantled on that alfa site if you follow a few links)

For the time being, some gentle throttle for a few seconds when cold starting will suffice.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Chris1Roll

After a night in the freezer, the valve had opened up a bit more.

Once it was refitted to the car, and bearing in mind it had been chilled to -20, it gave me a ~900 rpm idle - higher than previous but not enough if it was actually -20 outside! (It sounded better too, less piston slap at a sensible idle speed)
That then dropped to about 6-700 after a couple of minutes as I presume the bimetallic bits did their thing and then as the engine itself warmed up it started to rise again.
I didn't have a piece of pipe to had the right size to try it completely out of the system.
I've read about adjusting them by loosening the nut and adjusting the slide so that it opens more (or less, as required) when cold.
I may have a go at that, I guess I'd want to get it to say 1000rpm on a cold start in the summer, which should give ~1200 in the winter when it should naturally be open further.

Then I was thinking perhaps a more reliable solution would be to put a manual valve (probably a heater control valve with the correct size bore) on a choke cable.
Turns out people have already thought of that, some have done homebrew versions like I was thinking of, and there are also some 'off the shelf' solutions.

https://www.alfabb.com/threads/atten...-setup.157697/
(there are some interesting pictures of the aav dismantled on that alfa site if you follow a few links)

For the time being, some gentle throttle for a few seconds when cold starting will suffice.

... a FI motorcar with a manual choke, I can't help being amused by that (in a very nice way, it is what I'd do).

[Othen]

Originally Posted by 360beast

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heater-Co...-127635-2958-0

This is the one people have been buying for RHD cars

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=321954

I'm wondering whether the same has happened to this motorcar I'm watching on eBay:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334897760184

... the seller says 'It does have a couple of minor faults, the main being the heater matrix has been bypassed'. It has been for sale for a couple of months already, if it is still being offered after I move to Zummresette I may offer the chap £1,200, start walking away and see is he/she follows.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

I believe a Mk1 Golf heater valve can be used with some minor modifications as well.
Much cheaper!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173629434018

Didn't someone post a 'how to' thread about this one a while ago Dave? Something to do with fitting it at right angles to the original and modifying the cable mechanism?