850 Estate - central locking problem

Had a very disappointing day with the 850 today. I apologise for the length of the post but I think there are key factors that need to be explained if anyone is going to be able to help..

On the eve of a 2 week camping tour of the South West, we were about to set off in the 850 to the supermarket for provisions - only the car wouldn't start. All the dashboard lights lit, the ventilation fan was turning and the sidelights were on but when I turned the key to start the engine, nothing. Not a click or even an attempt by the starter motor to turn.

I assumed I had run the battery flat as I had accidentally left a small transformer for my MP3 player plugged into the 12V socket and the car hadn't moved for a few days (assuming the socket is live when the ignition is off?). Anyway, I was able to jump start the 850 with my trusty old 940 and I set off for the supermarket thinking a good run was all the 850 needed.

Having done our shopping, we returned to the car and it started no problem at all so I drove to the pumps and filled up with petrol in preparation for the long journey ahead. Again, it started with no problem. Then I went to check tyre pressures, washer fluid level etc and that's where the trouble began. After I'd finished topping everything up, the car refused to start again. Same thing as before. No attempt to turn engine, all dash lights on nice and bright - just nothing when the key was turned.

A passer-bye jump started me and I headed for the nearest battery retailer. A check revealed my original Volvo battery was no longer holding it's charge and the alternator output was "slightly lower than the acceptable level" however the chap felt changing the battery would possibly improve this result. I gave the go ahead to change the battery and suprisingly the alternator output increased to "within acceptable tolerances". I thought my problems were over.

Later that day I stopped off at the local chinese takeaway for dinner. I tried to lock the car with the plipper (I have factory-fitted remote central locking with alarm) only it wouldn't lock. I could hear the system clicking and trying to do something with the locks but the buttons on the window sills didn't move.

Eventually, I locked the car with my key and retrieved my dinner. Upon returning to the car I was pleasantly suprised to be able to unlock it with the plipper. This soon turned to dismay however when THE CAR WOULDN'T START AGAIN!! Same thing as before. This time though, I realised that even when I press the plipper to lock the car, even though it doesn't lock, the immobiliser still comes on. I'm certain that the immobiliser was on when I attempted to start the car at the chinese takeaway as I had a few (unsuccessful) attempts at locking the car with the plipper whilst I was sitting in the car, before I set off home.

When I got home I investigated things a bit more closely.

I think the problem lies with the tailgate lock. I can lock and unlock the whole car using the key in the tailgate lock. If I lock the car from the tailgate with the key then press the plipper, all the passenger doors open but the tailgate remains locked. The passenger doors will only lock remotely when the tailgate has been locked (with the key). If I unlock the car from the tailgate then press the plipper, nothing locks. It's as if the tailgate lock has become isolated from the rest of the locking system but wont allow the other doors to lock unless it has been manually locked. I note with saloons you can isolate the bootlock from the rest if the door locks - but is that a feature of the estate locking system too?

Any ideas? I noticed a similar problem in the archives but no remedy was ever posted.

To make matters worse, my stereo now needs its code (because the battery was disconnected) and I haven't got it! Hope they have Volvo dealers in Cornwall...... :(

[ShadeTek]

You have two problems.

1. Your battery needed replaced which you did. They have a habit of "just failing" rather than a gradual decline. (Not starting can also be a faulty ignition switch or cam position sensor too).

2. The tailgate lock/switch is a known problem. I have had the exact same problem too and I needed to manually lock or unlock the rear door to re-synchronize the central locking. You may also find your battery drain is the interior rear light on all the time because of the faulty switch. I have heard of skooshing some switch cleaner in it works. You can also leave the rear interior switch in the off position to stop battery drain for just now. If you are going to remove the rear tailgate cover, get onto ebay and buy some of the mod plates which stop your probably rattling cover. This mod is also available from Volvo or European Car Parts. They help reduce the rattle but sometimes don't cure it. Have some foam packing ready to pad out the gaps and get some new clips holders as you will break those when taking the cover off too. Your ciggy lighter should have no power at it when the ignition is off...Oh, and while your in the rear tailgate, take the wiper assembly out and re-grease the main arm spindle as water will ingress into the split at the external boot cover and seize up too! If you want your radio code, phone any Volvo dealer with your registration number or VIN number. They gave me mine over the phone.

I hope this has been of some help.

[Chris_Rogers]

When it had promlems with the tailgate locking on my old 850 the symptoms were these:
The tailgate would not lock using the remote or the drivers door lock. The only way to lock it was to use the key in the tailgate. It would however open OK.
There was no 'no start' problem.
I found the tailgate would lock in the up/open position but not the closed.
The fault was a broken (yellow) wire near the tailgate hinge inside the car in the part loom that is flexed when the tailgate is opened.

I would suggest you have a similar fault, try the remote with the tailgate open to see if it then works then the various positions towards closed.
If this make no difference then the fault is likely to be in the lock itself.

I think the no start problem maybe a further fault but it's worth fixing the tailgate issue first and going from there.

Thanks for all the advice. Sadly, I wasn’t able to read any of it before I embarked on my 1800 mile tour of what turned out to be the Peak District and Wales (didn’t have time to get down to Cornwall) – but the info is still helpful and relevant as you’ll see… Incidentally, I have already reinforced my tailgate clips with that kit but I take on board the comments about extra foam padding for filling out the voids.

The tailgate problem has been (hopefully) resolved. The remote central locking started working properly intermittently during my travels – presumably jarred back into operation by repeated slamming of the tailgate. I noticed it was looking a bit dry and oxidised around the lock and release lever of the tailgate so I squirted some silicon lubricant into the lock and up inside the release lever. This made a huge difference and the central locking now works a treat every time and doesn’t sound as if it is struggling like it was before.

The starting problems that occurred after the battery had been changed were, I’m sure, down to me trying to start the car whilst the immobiliser was on. I failed to realise that whilst I was furiously and repeatedly pressing the remote central locking button, the immobiliser was being activated even though the doors weren’t being locked. Now I know what the red light on top of the dashboard was trying to tell me! I may even have been trying to start the car in Drive (I know there is a safety device that prevents this) - this is my first Auto after all!

The only drama that occurred on holiday was the batteries in the key fob died leaving me locked out and stranded! At this point the word “lemon” began entering my mind… Fortunately the old “remove the batteries and give them a rub” did the trick and allowed me to retrieve the spare keys.

I was also able to get my radio code from the dealership after I faxed them my registration document.

So everything is fixed and working fine again - but I have a new problem now and I think it’s related to the rear suspension. I will post separately regarding this..

Thanks again,

Andy

[ShadeTek]

I got stranded once when my key fob would not open the car. The sound man had problems all day with his radio mics saying there was a transmitter near-by causing him interference and it must have been close to the car receiver frequency too as I could not get the car unlocked by the remote. (We were at a Marina so it may have been radar too). I phoned a dealership who put me onto someone else to remove a particular fuse. I did this and the car started OK! I then thought that if the alarm had been well thought out it would not cut in while the engine was running...a serious safety issue. So I put the fuse back in with the engine running and the alarm souned momentarily and then went off. Drove away from the Marina and the fob worked OK after that.