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C30 / S40 & V50 '04-'12 / C70 '06-'13 General Forum for the P1-platform C30 / S40 / V50 / C70 models |
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V50 1.8 petrol idle issuesViews : 9242 Replies : 37Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 24th, 2018, 15:32 | #21 |
Member
Last Online: Feb 5th, 2024 22:38
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: north
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after cleaning the throttle body a month ago the problem seemed to have gone away.
now the same rpm fluctuations seem to be back, especially noticeable when coming to a stop. fluctuating rpm between 400 and 1000 but it does not stall. seems to recover very quickly again. the car still seems to be a little bit harder to start too. It does crank well so starter motor and battery is ruled out, but especially when the car is warm after a short drive, it might take 2-3 seconds of cranking before it fires up. according to the service history a ECM update and new sparkplugs have been done 8 months ago. So the software should be up to date. sensor problems? The car does not have any fault codes though. |
Apr 24th, 2018, 15:56 | #22 |
Volvo S40
Last Online: Yesterday 00:18
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Location: Chichester
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Maybe have a look at the MAF, get some sensor cleaner on there and see if that helps the problem.
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Apr 24th, 2018, 17:36 | #23 |
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Last Online: Feb 5th, 2024 22:38
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is there a way to reach the MAF sensor without removing the complete intake manifold? looks very tight.
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Apr 24th, 2018, 21:26 | #24 |
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Last Online: Jan 23rd, 2024 17:19
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Carshalton
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Hi there,
I did TMAP sensor cleaning not so long ago. Position indeed is awkward, but you definitely can do that without removing intake manifold. If you look close enough, you should be able to see sensor connection, put your hand in and try to feel position of the torque screw. Disconnect battery first and use a small ratchet with T20 bit (as I rember correctly!), it will take some time to actually get a nice angle on the screw. Bit frustrating, small hands are actually an advantage here. Once screw is removed, wiggle the sensor out, it is held by o-ring, but it will come out without using excessive force. Clean it out with combination of carb cleaner first and then contact cleaner. Do not use q-tips or anything like it, just spray it till clean and leave it to dry. Installation is reverse of removal, obviously. Reconnect battery and start the engine. If possible, clean errors with Vida. Here's the link to quite a good tutorial, I confirm sensor location is exaxtly the same: https://youtu.be/icgaLiEoohc I hope this helps. Good luck. Last edited by FracturedButWhole; Apr 24th, 2018 at 21:36. |
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Apr 25th, 2018, 16:41 | #25 |
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Last Online: Feb 5th, 2024 22:38
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Location: north
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thank you I will try that! Hopefully that will fix this annoying issue.
especially the bad starting is very annoying |
Apr 25th, 2018, 21:31 | #26 |
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Last Online: Feb 5th, 2024 22:38
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this is a video of the symptoms. Couple of more videos are out there on youtube of similar volvos, fords and Mazdas
[YOUTUBE]https://youtu.be/Jcy7JF6mLug[/YOUTUBE] |
Apr 30th, 2018, 17:24 | #27 |
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Last Online: Feb 5th, 2024 22:38
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I received my OBD scanner today and I checken my MAP and IAT (intake temp) sensors.
conditions: rainy, 10 degrees outside air temp. engine idle 720 rpm MAP: 32 kpa IAT: 21 degrees C anyone who has reference numbers to crosscheck maybe? |
May 9th, 2018, 08:33 | #28 | |
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Last Online: Feb 5th, 2024 22:38
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So there has been one more symptom that can be added to the list now. Yesterday on my way back from work I was cruising on CC at around 55 mph into a tunnel. The car was slowly accelerating to around 57, maybe 58. I decided to disconnect the CC at that point. I pressed the accelerator and it immediately went into 'reduced engine performance' mode. I was on the highway, left lane, in a tunnel without any shoulder road on neither side. A pretty dangerous situation since the tunnel was followed by a 4% climb to the top of the tunnel. I crawled out of the tunnel at 30mph and pulled over on to the shoulder.
at that point the engine was running very rough. Idling around 1500rpm and it felt like it wasn't running on all 4 cylinders. But this probably has to do with the fact that it was in a protection mode. I shut that car down. Grabbed my OBD scanner from the boot. I connected it, no codes at all! Then I started the car up again with no problem whatsoever. I then continued another 30 miles home without any problem or hesitation in the car. So just to sum it up again: - erratic idle when slowing down. stabilized once on a standstill - sometimes a little bit harder to start or takes 2 cranks - reduced engine performance mode I was reading another topic on this exact same issue: https://www.avforums.com/threads/vol...#post-20283423 On the last post he mentioned the following: Quote:
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Jun 3rd, 2018, 13:38 | #29 |
New Member
Last Online: Jan 29th, 2021 12:56
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: london
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how is the car going ive got almost same problem. lumpy runn
I think i have done most things control valve replaced, cleaned throttle body, cleaned sensor near manifold new plugs and coil packs, checked hoses apart from one behind manifold! hot look at flaps in manifold?
any ideas please? plug diagnostic in but nothing shows up. thanks |
Jun 3rd, 2018, 19:26 | #30 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Jan 23rd, 2024 17:19
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Carshalton
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Hi Steveri
There's a guy who did quite nice tutorial about removing intake manifold off the engine. He also did a video about manifold flaps. Almost exactly the same procedure applies to our Volvos. https://youtu.be/vBxm5QjD0PY Hope this helps. Enjoy. |
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