New to the forum but a few issues with my V70

lotsofaddedsugar · Oct 10th, 2017, 14:12

Hello all,

For a long time I have wanted a T5. And now I have one!

I found the forum online and I have done a bit of reading and there seems to be an awful lot of knowledge on here. I have a few issues and wanted to run them by everyone and see what your thoughts are.

2000 P2 Auto.

The car is very sluggish to pull away and feels like it is slipping, almost as if in a manual the clutch were on its way out. The revs are also restricted and will not go above 3500rpm.

I know the gearbox is a little notorious for having its issues as Volvo say it is filled for life, but given the mileage that these cars can cover without stopping for breathe this is not the case. I have checked the oil and it still has a reddish tint to it so I would of thought a oil change had been done in the not to distant past.

Any suggestions or advice for checks anyone has please do let me know.

Whilst I am a keen to take on most jobs myself I could not wish to take on some jobs without a little bit of guidance at least.

Thank you in advance

Georgeandkira · Oct 10th, 2017, 18:51

Welcome to the forum unofficially (I'm not on the welcoming committee).

A few details always help; such as circumstances of sale (private sale, hodgepodge lot, main dealer used lot etc.), general condition of car and mileage.

Is crossing the T's and dotting the I's in order?
See if the ETM is clean, the fuel filter has been changed and if the spark plugs are correct and in service.

Register yourself with Volvo as the new owner of the car. Very rarely a campaign is executed by Volvo for free. At the age of your car, it is unlikely any campaigns are open but you never know.

See if the ETM or TCM is absent any update (computer re-flash).

There are times these cars go into "limp home mode". I am not familiar with what causes it or how you reset your car once it has.
It's incumbent on you to find out.

Sometimes a wipe of ATF has a "reddish tint" about the edges but is still quite dirty.
For the cost of 4 litres of fluid and a drain plug gasket you can get a good look.

Visually check both L and R handbrake shoes. This requires removal of the rear rotors. Can you do that, for example? Kira

lotsofaddedsugar · Oct 11th, 2017, 18:45

Thanks for the info.

To be honest it was acquired of friend of my father in law, who stopped driving last December.

Charged the battery and it started straight away.

I have already removed and cleaned the etm but it didn’t seem to make a difference. I will do a gearbox oil change at the weekend and see.

Any brand you would recommend, always been a Castrol fan personally but I know that knowledge can far outweigh a humble opinion.

Thanks for the advice on the rear hand brake it all feels fine but no harm in having a closer look.

Also browsing on here someone with a similar issue mentioned a pvc tank? I’m a little niave to this but is the rubber glove test full proof for that?

Thanks again

Brendan W · Oct 11th, 2017, 19:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Georgeandkira

Welcome to the forum unofficially (I'm not on the welcoming committee).

That's right. You missed the meeting where we voted you chairperson of the Official Welcoming Committee

Word of advice. Never miss a meeting

cam · Oct 12th, 2017, 05:46

Hi mate and welcome

FIBAMAN · Oct 13th, 2017, 11:08

Hi, new to forum having just acquired my very first Volvo(14 V70 D5); and the very first thing I find is "filled for life", funny I thought it was BMW that said that (owned 525d for last 10 years).
I would suggest as previous comments, change oil, then you know where you are starting from. It is a lottery as far as I am concerned, changed my BM gearbox oil at 98k, then hey presto - needed torque converter rebuild at 150k. Still got car actually and now on 245k so wondering what happens next.

VOLVOBOY · Oct 13th, 2017, 12:13

Hi and welcome to the forum.
Congrats on going for a T5.
Sorry it`s giving problems .
This is a fantastic forum for help and advise.
If you`re changing the gearbox oil you must use an oil to spec. JWS3309. Otherwise you`ll trash the gearbox.
Search this forum. There`s a load of info on what to do and how to do it.
In fact read as much as you can before you do anything because you`ll understand better how your car works and what to do to fix it.
As for your car...
You say that it fired up first hit after standing. Well, that`s a good sign that there can`t be much wrong with the engine. But did it smoke? Does it rev over 3500rpm in neutral / park ? Did the previous owner know there was something not right ?
At the moment there`s a myriad of things that it could be....
Fuel starvation. EVAP system. Intercooler. Vacuum lines. Turbo. Crankcase pressure. Control modules. Are there any warnings on the dash?....
Keep posting up what you find .

Georgeandkira · Oct 13th, 2017, 13:14

OP asked, "...I will do a gearbox oil change at the weekend and see. Any brand you would recommend...(?).

As mentioned, any 3309 spec fluid will do. Toyota Type-IV (T-IV) will work.
There are a few synthetic universals out there which cover the spec just fine. You'll find that spec on many products but not all.

Just get 4 litres for now. A trannie sump drain will yield <4. Buy a 20-30 litre keg of the stuff if you plan on doing a pump out.

FIBAMAN recalled, "...changed my BM gearbox oil at 98k, then hey presto - needed torque converter rebuild at 150k."

The time needed to drive a car 52,000 miles precludes any cause-and-effect argument and is entirely incompatible with "presto".

FIBAMAN · Oct 13th, 2017, 14:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Georgeandkira

OP asked, "...I will do a gearbox oil change at the weekend and see. Any brand you would recommend...(?).

As mentioned, any 3309 spec fluid will do. Toyota Type-IV (T-IV) will work.
There are a few synthetic universals out there which cover the spec just fine. You'll find that spec on many products but not all.

Just get 4 litres for now. A trannie sump drain will yield <4. Buy a 20-30 litre keg of the stuff if you plan on doing a pump out.

FIBAMAN recalled, "...changed my BM gearbox oil at 98k, then hey presto - needed torque converter rebuild at 150k."

The time needed to drive a car 52,000 miles precludes any cause-and-effect argument and is entirely incompatible with "presto".

I agree, but at that time I was doing 30 / 40k a year so it seemed like no time at all.Just highlighting I am sceptical about "lifetime fill" whoever is manufacturer.

lotsofaddedsugar · Oct 16th, 2017, 10:39

With my misses about to drop I spent the weekend doing other things in the end and didn't manage to spend any time on the car at all.

In advance I charged the battery and started up nice and easy, minimal smoke for may a few seconds.

The car does rev more freely in neutral but I haven't been tempted to go anywhere near the red line at all.

I will make the time to meet the old boy who had the car previously. But as of yet I have not done that.

I would think the car did have the problem before it was parked up, But that is nothing more than a suspicion. The car does have transmission service indicator on and the MIL light on also.

In the long run I would like to get a decent code reader but small steps at the moment.

Thanks again for the help and interest.

Oct 10th, 2017, 14:12	#1
lotsofaddedsugar New Member Last Online: Jun 14th, 2018 13:41 Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Folkestone	New to the forum but a few issues with my V70 Hello all, For a long time I have wanted a T5. And now I have one! I found the forum online and I have done a bit of reading and there seems to be an awful lot of knowledge on here. I have a few issues and wanted to run them by everyone and see what your thoughts are. 2000 P2 Auto. The car is very sluggish to pull away and feels like it is slipping, almost as if in a manual the clutch were on its way out. The revs are also restricted and will not go above 3500rpm. I know the gearbox is a little notorious for having its issues as Volvo say it is filled for life, but given the mileage that these cars can cover without stopping for breathe this is not the case. I have checked the oil and it still has a reddish tint to it so I would of thought a oil change had been done in the not to distant past. Any suggestions or advice for checks anyone has please do let me know. Whilst I am a keen to take on most jobs myself I could not wish to take on some jobs without a little bit of guidance at least. Thank you in advance

Oct 10th, 2017, 18:51	#2
Georgeandkira Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 13:23 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Hackensack	Welcome to the forum unofficially (I'm not on the welcoming committee). A few details always help; such as circumstances of sale (private sale, hodgepodge lot, main dealer used lot etc.), general condition of car and mileage. Is crossing the T's and dotting the I's in order? See if the ETM is clean, the fuel filter has been changed and if the spark plugs are correct and in service. Register yourself with Volvo as the new owner of the car. Very rarely a campaign is executed by Volvo for free. At the age of your car, it is unlikely any campaigns are open but you never know. See if the ETM or TCM is absent any update (computer re-flash). There are times these cars go into "limp home mode". I am not familiar with what causes it or how you reset your car once it has. It's incumbent on you to find out. Sometimes a wipe of ATF has a "reddish tint" about the edges but is still quite dirty. For the cost of 4 litres of fluid and a drain plug gasket you can get a good look. Visually check both L and R handbrake shoes. This requires removal of the rear rotors. Can you do that, for example? Kira Last edited by Georgeandkira; Oct 10th, 2017 at 19:00.

Oct 11th, 2017, 18:45	#3
lotsofaddedsugar New Member Last Online: Jun 14th, 2018 13:41 Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Folkestone	Thanks for the info. To be honest it was acquired of friend of my father in law, who stopped driving last December. Charged the battery and it started straight away. I have already removed and cleaned the etm but it didn’t seem to make a difference. I will do a gearbox oil change at the weekend and see. Any brand you would recommend, always been a Castrol fan personally but I know that knowledge can far outweigh a humble opinion. Thanks for the advice on the rear hand brake it all feels fine but no harm in having a closer look. Also browsing on here someone with a similar issue mentioned a pvc tank? I’m a little niave to this but is the rubber glove test full proof for that? Thanks again

Oct 12th, 2017, 05:46	#5
cam Premier Member Last Online: Apr 25th, 2024 12:12 Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: llanhari	Hi mate and welcome

Oct 13th, 2017, 11:08	#6
FIBAMAN Junior Member Last Online: Sep 10th, 2022 14:42 Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: CHESTER LE STREET	Hi, new to forum having just acquired my very first Volvo(14 V70 D5); and the very first thing I find is "filled for life", funny I thought it was BMW that said that (owned 525d for last 10 years). I would suggest as previous comments, change oil, then you know where you are starting from. It is a lottery as far as I am concerned, changed my BM gearbox oil at 98k, then hey presto - needed torque converter rebuild at 150k. Still got car actually and now on 245k so wondering what happens next.

Oct 13th, 2017, 12:13	#7
VOLVOBOY Lazy Member Last Online: Yesterday 22:19 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: HORLEY	Hi and welcome to the forum. Congrats on going for a T5. Sorry it`s giving problems . This is a fantastic forum for help and advise. If you`re changing the gearbox oil you must use an oil to spec. JWS3309. Otherwise you`ll trash the gearbox. Search this forum. There`s a load of info on what to do and how to do it. In fact read as much as you can before you do anything because you`ll understand better how your car works and what to do to fix it. As for your car... You say that it fired up first hit after standing. Well, that`s a good sign that there can`t be much wrong with the engine. But did it smoke? Does it rev over 3500rpm in neutral / park ? Did the previous owner know there was something not right ? At the moment there`s a myriad of things that it could be.... Fuel starvation. EVAP system. Intercooler. Vacuum lines. Turbo. Crankcase pressure. Control modules. Are there any warnings on the dash?.... Keep posting up what you find .

Oct 13th, 2017, 13:14	#8
Georgeandkira Premier Member Last Online: Yesterday 13:23 Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Hackensack	OP asked, "...I will do a gearbox oil change at the weekend and see. Any brand you would recommend...(?). As mentioned, any 3309 spec fluid will do. Toyota Type-IV (T-IV) will work. There are a few synthetic universals out there which cover the spec just fine. You'll find that spec on many products but not all. Just get 4 litres for now. A trannie sump drain will yield <4. Buy a 20-30 litre keg of the stuff if you plan on doing a pump out. FIBAMAN recalled, "...changed my BM gearbox oil at 98k, then hey presto - needed torque converter rebuild at 150k." The time needed to drive a car 52,000 miles precludes any cause-and-effect argument and is entirely incompatible with "presto".

Oct 16th, 2017, 10:39	#10
lotsofaddedsugar New Member Last Online: Jun 14th, 2018 13:41 Join Date: Oct 2017 Location: Folkestone	With my misses about to drop I spent the weekend doing other things in the end and didn't manage to spend any time on the car at all. In advance I charged the battery and started up nice and easy, minimal smoke for may a few seconds. The car does rev more freely in neutral but I haven't been tempted to go anywhere near the red line at all. I will make the time to meet the old boy who had the car previously. But as of yet I have not done that. I would think the car did have the problem before it was parked up, But that is nothing more than a suspicion. The car does have transmission service indicator on and the MIL light on also. In the long run I would like to get a decent code reader but small steps at the moment. Thanks again for the help and interest.

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