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Nivomat Fluid Replaced:~ Volvo 240

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Old Jul 30th, 2020, 12:24   #1
Bob Meadows
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Default Nivomat Fluid Replaced:~ Volvo 240

This type of end fitting (circled in blue) can be removed if you work carefully: ~
Place the chrome arm in a vice that is protected with a decent gauge of aluminium- clamp up tight. Heat the end fitting where it joins the chrome etc., you do not need a great deal of heat to break the bond—probably a thread sealer i.e. Loctite.
Too much heat and the plastic internal seals may distort- just enough to start the eye bush moving.
A round bar through the eye will also be required for leverage.
A camper gas gun is more than sufficient to break the seal- A small valve with plastic seals (nylon?) is attached the base of the part being removed- plus a spring so be aware that parts can jump out..
Keep a cloth wrapped around the above as you remove, fluid under pressure will want to get out plus the valve parts. The fluid that I removed looked like tomato soup and not a good brand at that!
I replaced the fluid with new – the same amount as removed. At the base of the threaded part you should find a fibre gasket. To replace the eye keep the fluid just below the threads making sure that the same is free from oil, apply thread lock, I use the low torque type here as it is easier to remove the eye in the future.
Both Nivomat shock absorbers seem to be working and as pressure is applied then the firmer they are.
The above are from a Volvo 240 that has rubber eyes at each end- I haven’t replaced the gaiters at present but may do so- It became a bit of an experiment I suppose but the condition of the items is very good i.e. no rust on body parts or chrome. I do have a 240 but I’m not particularly interested in fitting them-they came from a friends working car.

Regards Bob
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Last edited by Bob Meadows; Jul 30th, 2020 at 12:27.
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Old Jul 31st, 2020, 12:57   #2
Othen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Meadows View Post
This type of end fitting (circled in blue) can be removed if you work carefully: ~
Place the chrome arm in a vice that is protected with a decent gauge of aluminium- clamp up tight. Heat the end fitting where it joins the chrome etc., you do not need a great deal of heat to break the bond—probably a thread sealer i.e. Loctite.
Too much heat and the plastic internal seals may distort- just enough to start the eye bush moving.
A round bar through the eye will also be required for leverage.
A camper gas gun is more than sufficient to break the seal- A small valve with plastic seals (nylon?) is attached the base of the part being removed- plus a spring so be aware that parts can jump out..
Keep a cloth wrapped around the above as you remove, fluid under pressure will want to get out plus the valve parts. The fluid that I removed looked like tomato soup and not a good brand at that!
I replaced the fluid with new – the same amount as removed. At the base of the threaded part you should find a fibre gasket. To replace the eye keep the fluid just below the threads making sure that the same is free from oil, apply thread lock, I use the low torque type here as it is easier to remove the eye in the future.
Both Nivomat shock absorbers seem to be working and as pressure is applied then the firmer they are.
The above are from a Volvo 240 that has rubber eyes at each end- I haven’t replaced the gaiters at present but may do so- It became a bit of an experiment I suppose but the condition of the items is very good i.e. no rust on body parts or chrome. I do have a 240 but I’m not particularly interested in fitting them-they came from a friends working car.

Regards Bob
I had to google Nivomat to find out what it meant Bob :-)

Alan
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