Its Cold Out/Cylinder Head Help

[rustytoba]

Hi All

In need of a little help with my 240.

Its Cold Out:

Has anyone replaced the heater motor on a 240?

Is it a huge pain?

Is it a dash off case, or is it possible to just take the side capes off the central consul?

Cylinder Head Help:

In the near future I will need to take my cylinder head off to replace some snapped studs, and give it (the age old rarely spoken about these days) de-coke, and so to save time I was going to get a spare head, do stem seals, tappets etc, so in the end the job would just become an afternoon head swap and not a week long drag.

So the question is, as 240's are hard to find in scrapies, does a 740, or 940 head fit a 240?

I know that the distributor is head mounted on both these models, as I cut my Volvo teeth on these many years ago, but I can sort out a blanking plate for that.

Would there be any other problems that would hinder this process?

All suggestions appreciated

Rusty

[ALLOA]

Heater isn't too bad if you take out the ctr console and the glovebox. Its a pain but 'do-able'

Best of luck

Scott

[heckflosse]

Dash out is not as awful as many cars these days, take your time and be methodical.Cars are built round heaters, I'm afraid.
to change a matrix, you have to split the box halves anyway, the old adage of spend an hour to save ten [or thereabouts].At least you can see what you are doing with the dash out.

heads-
if you get one that is the same engine code E.G B2ooF,it should be fine.
the 900 distributor is, as you say, the only difference.
there is a round plug available to fill the hole if used on a 200.
Watch for corrosion, the main killer of old Volvo heads.

Have fun!,
James.

[wooble]

200/700/900 heads are interchangeable, the exception being the '631' heron head on the B230K engine.

[Clifford Pope]

There is the "chainsaw method" of replacing the heater motor - do a search on brickboard.com.

I've never tried it, but I think basically you cut out the plastic at the end of the motor to gain access, then glue a patch panel in afterwards.

[rustytoba]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

There is the "chainsaw method" of replacing the heater motor - do a search on brickboard.com.

I've never tried it, but I think basically you cut out the plastic at the end of the motor to gain access, then glue a patch panel in afterwards.

Sounds painful!!!

I don't think Greta deserves the chainsaw method just yet.

But I'll keep it in mind

Rusty

[Magnumpi]

The proper way: http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbook...eater_unit.pdf


The holecutting way: http://www.cleanflametrap.com/chainsaw.html

[Yaxley]

As air conditioning was standard in the USA, but relatively rare in the UK when 240's were being produced. Almost all the guides and descriptions refer to air con heating systems, but in most instances the blower system in the UK is the 'oblong brown box' one, as described in the 'green Haynes' (as opposed to the orange or red haynes!).

[Paul240480]

My heater motor gave out last summer, smoke pouring into the cabin ( you can tell it was summer as I had the heater on lol).




Contortionism is a must.... Though as mentioned a methodical approach is the key.

Common sense says to replace the heater matrix at the same time as it comes out anyway

The only supplier 'off the shelf' I found was Skandix, and at 170€ I decided they could keep it. My original went back in. I flushed it and very little crud came out. 6 months on all is well.
good luck

[rustytoba]

Thanks All,

Once the dash has been thinned down some what, it is a little easier to deal with, it took about 4 hours to remove, 1 hour to replace motor and seal up the main housing, and about 5 hours to install, once installed I noticed I had no power to the cigar lighter (loose connection due to moving the loom I expect), and my dash light dimmer had burnt out, apart from that I class it as a success.

Rusty