S40 (New) AC : - S40 - Air Con issues...

Resonance · Jul 27th, 2018, 13:09

Thought I'd post this thread for some advice pointers please.
As trawling thru various topics and google searching, seems shimming is a very good fix. However before I do that I just want to post some of the things that I see/don't see.
When I have auto climate on, the fans are on at the loudest setting, but no difference to the temp, just the hot air.
No lights flicker.
When I turn a/c on, as in not auto, I don't hear any change in revs, nor in the rpm meter, I thought you should at least get a slight nudge in the meter and hear some noise from the engine? Does this prove it's more than just a shim job?
I looked at F27 fuse and that's fine, no breaks.
I don't have any tools to check if the relay R11 is working or not.
I hope this makes sense and appreciate any pointers from you guys. thanks

It's a 2006 Volvo S40 2.4i Sport.

cheshired5 · Jul 27th, 2018, 13:16

First things first.
Is the compressor clutch engaged and spinning with the main ac pulley?

Resonance · Jul 27th, 2018, 14:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheshired5

First things first.
Is the compressor clutch engaged and spinning with the main ac pulley?

Good question...no, I opened the wheel well and turned the A/C on, and the clutch did not engage/nor spin with the pulley.

LizardOfBodom · Jul 27th, 2018, 14:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Resonance

Good question...no, I opened the wheel well and turned the A/C on, and the clutch did not engage/nor spin with the pulley.

Compressor clutch gap issue? (someone must confirm that as I am not 100% sure it presents itself this way)
EDIT: I just re-read it and answered myself, dont think so, clutch would atleast start with AC on but compressor wouldnt work properly if it was that.
sorry, out of ideas

Resonance · Jul 27th, 2018, 14:15

Well, I have managed to get the wheel liner out and be able to access the clutch, so apart from a few pints of sweat and swearing and buying bits of bolts/screws to stop the pulley spinning when I am trying to undo the main nut, what can honestly go wrong...
I'll try that if I get time over the weekend.

960kg · Jul 27th, 2018, 14:39

Just because the clutch does not cycle when a/c is on doesn`t mean it is the clutch gap?

The first thing to check is low pressure in the system caused by not enough gas. You can jump the leads at the low pressure switch and then when turned on if it is low pressure gas the clutch will do one cycle and stay on. If not THEN it can be the clutch gap.

You can run with the low pressure switch jumped but the a/c will remain on until the temp. sensor in the compressor will stop it all happening until it cools again. It will run for ages until it stops as cool airflow keeps the temp. down. No damage results because of sensors.

Or as an option you can just turn on and off manually every 30 mins ........when doing this you make the clutch cycle manually

It is entirely up to the individual what they do but if £`s are tight just turn it on and off. The a/c is still cold just not "cut your arm off cold" when the pressure is low.

cheshired5 · Jul 27th, 2018, 14:39

You need to carefully check the power supply to the compressor with the engine running.
Power but no clutch engagement is likely the gap issue.
No power, could be the relay or some other electrical issue.

Resonance · Jul 27th, 2018, 14:54

Is there a pic and location for this low pressure switch to jump? Thanks
I don't have any tools to check power supply to the compressor.
Anyone know a reliable person in Luton that can check the electrical stuff?

cheshired5 · Jul 27th, 2018, 14:57

Multimeters start at about £3.
It's just like checking a battery voltage but on the compressor live instead.

Resonance · Jul 27th, 2018, 15:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Multimeters start at about £3.
It's just like checking a battery voltage but on the compressor live instead.

OK, will buy one, worthwhile investment I think!

Jul 27th, 2018, 13:09	#1
Resonance Junior Member Last Online: May 19th, 2020 18:55 Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Beds	S40 - Air Con issues... Thought I'd post this thread for some advice pointers please. As trawling thru various topics and google searching, seems shimming is a very good fix. However before I do that I just want to post some of the things that I see/don't see. When I have auto climate on, the fans are on at the loudest setting, but no difference to the temp, just the hot air. No lights flicker. When I turn a/c on, as in not auto, I don't hear any change in revs, nor in the rpm meter, I thought you should at least get a slight nudge in the meter and hear some noise from the engine? Does this prove it's more than just a shim job? I looked at F27 fuse and that's fine, no breaks. I don't have any tools to check if the relay R11 is working or not. I hope this makes sense and appreciate any pointers from you guys. thanks It's a 2006 Volvo S40 2.4i Sport.

Jul 27th, 2018, 13:16	#2
cheshired5 Premier Member Last Online: Dec 26th, 2021 13:42 Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Crewe	First things first. Is the compressor clutch engaged and spinning with the main ac pulley? __________________ 2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles

Jul 27th, 2018, 14:39	#6
960kg Premier Member Last Online: Dec 28th, 2022 12:25 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Mercville	Just because the clutch does not cycle when a/c is on doesn`t mean it is the clutch gap? The first thing to check is low pressure in the system caused by not enough gas. You can jump the leads at the low pressure switch and then when turned on if it is low pressure gas the clutch will do one cycle and stay on. If not THEN it can be the clutch gap. You can run with the low pressure switch jumped but the a/c will remain on until the temp. sensor in the compressor will stop it all happening until it cools again. It will run for ages until it stops as cool airflow keeps the temp. down. No damage results because of sensors. Or as an option you can just turn on and off manually every 30 mins ........when doing this you make the clutch cycle manually It is entirely up to the individual what they do but if £`s are tight just turn it on and off. The a/c is still cold just not "cut your arm off cold" when the pressure is low. __________________ Mercedes C320CDI Sport Estate 3 litre V6 7 Gear Auto Remap 290bhp 628Nm torque @ 1600revs 45.1mpg

Jul 27th, 2018, 14:39	#7
cheshired5 Premier Member Last Online: Dec 26th, 2021 13:42 Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Crewe	You need to carefully check the power supply to the compressor with the engine running. Power but no clutch engagement is likely the gap issue. No power, could be the relay or some other electrical issue. __________________ 2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles

Jul 27th, 2018, 14:57	#9
cheshired5 Premier Member Last Online: Dec 26th, 2021 13:42 Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Crewe	Multimeters start at about £3. It's just like checking a battery voltage but on the compressor live instead. __________________ 2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles

Jul 27th, 2018, 14:15	#5
Resonance Junior Member Last Online: May 19th, 2020 18:55 Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Beds	Well, I have managed to get the wheel liner out and be able to access the clutch, so apart from a few pints of sweat and swearing and buying bits of bolts/screws to stop the pulley spinning when I am trying to undo the main nut, what can honestly go wrong... I'll try that if I get time over the weekend.

Jul 27th, 2018, 14:54	#8
Resonance Junior Member Last Online: May 19th, 2020 18:55 Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: Beds	Is there a pic and location for this low pressure switch to jump? Thanks I don't have any tools to check power supply to the compressor. Anyone know a reliable person in Luton that can check the electrical stuff?

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