Engine after 30 years in storage - 2litre

[pbeardmore]

What are the issues if no special measures were taken when parked into the garage? Permanent damage or should be OK?

[john.wigley]

Was the car driven into the garage 30 years ago and simply left, 'pbeardmore', or has it been turned over at intervals since?

If the former, there is a high probability that the engine will be seized after so long a period. If this is the case, soak the plug wells with 'plusgas' or similar for a few days before attempting to remove the plugs themselves. Once removed, introduce 'redex' or similar into the bores and give it ample time to do its work before attempting to turn the engine over by hand.

You may be lucky, and you can gently awaken the car from its slumber, but more than likely you will need to remove the head as a minimum. Don't rush anything and be gentle - after 30 years another week or two is not going to make much difference, is it?

You will of course need to change oil, coolant, belts and hoses as a matter of course. I'd change the oil after 500 and 1000 miles as well if you put the car back into use - or is it to be a full restoration job? People will need to know much more before they can give you any more specific advise.

Regards, John.

[Clifford Pope]

Don't whatever you do turn the engine on the starter until you have replaced the timing belt. The belt will be old and hardened, or perished, or at least will have a permanent set from the sprockets.
You can safely try rocking it with a spanner on the crank nut, and run some oil down the bores, and cautiously turn it over a few times. Then do the belt.

Then drain the oil and replace with something cheap and thin, and with the plugs out try spinning the engine until you get oil pressure. Check the thermostat and coolant level, put the plugs in, and try starting. I'd run it until hot, then drain the oil and put proper stuff in.

If the coolant was still there, with antifreeze, the water passages may be OK. If it's all leaked away then expect major blockages and corrosion.

[pbeardmore]

Thanks guys, that's very useful, I knew most of this, the point re the timing belt makes perfect sense and something that I had missed. What a useful forum :-)

[geoffo]

I started a b21 after a 19 years plus stand in a garage. The pulley belts had perished and set solid so had to cut them off and replace. I changed the oil and filter. Had to change the timing belt only because it was wrongly adjusted other than that it was in good nick and it’s a hell of a job. If the engine turns I would have a go at starting it rather than faff about taking head off. Bit of oil down the bores then get a compression tester on it. Plugs, points, rotor arm check then fresh fuel and off you go!

[pbeardmore]

After soaking the cylinders etc, is there a problem with putting the car in gear and gentle rocking it to see if there is free movement?

[john.wigley]

In the old days, we would have attempted to turn the engine over 'on the handle' as it gives more control than rocking the car. Might it be possible to do this by either pulling on the fan belt or as Clifford Pope suggests, using a socket on the crankshaft bolt. Be gentle, if the engine still feels tight, I'd be inclined to leave it for a day or two longer before attempting to turn it over.

Another potential problem you may experience after so long a period of inactivity is a 'stuck' clutch. I must say that I am also with 'CP' re not starting the engine until you have changed the timing belt - sorry, 'geoffo', but I feel it is too great a risk to do otherwise.

Regards, John.

[Clifford Pope]

You're not going to seriously drive the car on its 30-year old belt, so why would you not change it first rather than taking a risk?
Timing belts are cheap and easy to change, especially the B21 engine which has the crankshaft pulley secured by a ring of 6 bolts rather than the single very tight bolt.

[geoffo]

Come to think of it you might jack the back axle up off the ground in case the clutch is stuck. No problem and sound advice from you all to take it gentle and be cautious-but I’m a fan of revving the nuts off it and the Italian tune up......

[Stephen Edwin]

Is the question only about the engine?

If the car is being brought back in to use.

I would fit five new tyres. At 30 plus years the tyres are entitled to have dramatic failure.

I would have the brakes inspected and I suggest at lease new fluid and new flexible hoses.

I would quite early in establishing general maintenance ... clean up &c. electrical earths. First the engine earths. There are probably two. One at the rear of the cam cover and as Clifford recently explained one connecting behind or beneath the battery. Engine earths are especially important because a number of essential components tend to be earthed via the engine. Then I would keep an eye out for earth connections whenever inspecting or working on the car. A fair number of problems involve electrical earth connection, so this is time well spent.

I would lubricate all those things that tend to get overlooked. For example, bonnet hinges have several fulcrum points per hinge. If they seize the hinge is likely to bend. And the drive belt adjusters. And the nuts securing th headlights. They will be corroded by now and they are a devil of a job to deal with if the hex head screw "studs" bread free from the headlight housing. Three per headlight. Squirt regularly with Plus Gas and they should be easy to undo.

Headlight reflectors are likely to be corroded by now....expect to need new reflectors

&c. &c. &c.

Enjoy !!!!!!!

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