Alloy wheel issues on Volvo 544

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by Salop Farmer

Well Derek to be shamefully honest I have not yet mastered the uploading of photos to this site. Hopefully really soon as I have quite a few pics of my rebuild. The area the inner rim rubs is the point at which the castor/camber adjuster clamp bolt passes through the king pin inner forging. I have never seen longer wheel studs available for sale. I will do a bit of research.

When it's all sorted and picture posting sorted,Please post A photo of PV with new wheels

Search "brickboard" for info on studs.
https://www.brickboard.com/

[Salop Farmer]

Originally Posted by arcturus

When it's all sorted and picture posting sorted,Please post A photo of PV with new wheels

Search "brickboard" for info on studs.
https://www.brickboard.com/

Will do

[Derek UK]

Ask Rob at Amazon Cars about longer studs. In fact talk to him about the problem as he is used to rallying PV's with standard and alternate wheels.

[blueosprey90]

I haven't read the whole thread and it may have gone in a direction I haven't anticipated. Sorry if my comment turns out to be useless.

On my MGA, I used 3" Moroso studs. I used the wheel stud kit, part 46450, that included both the wheel stud and the lug nuts, Studs in this kit are 7/16–20 x 2 7/8” with a 0.480 diameter knurl. The use of the longer studs was necessitated by my switching over to the Minatour Minilite wheels. The mounting area is thicker than the old racing wheels by about half an inch. Plus lug nut mounts within a deep recess, maybe up to 1” deep.

There are many Moresco options. The trick is to match the knurl depth and diameter as closely as possible to the size of your hole, and to match the number of splines as well. Mine were not even close in terms of spline count, but I pressed them in and they have worked fine.

You will want a deep socket to change the tires, although my 4 way tire iron works OK except for torquing the lug nuts.

You will want to torque often when you first start using the new wheels as the aluminium is soft and it takes a while for the steel lug nut to imbed without loosening.

The 3 inch stud may be too long. You can cut the studs to length if you are careful.

The Moresco studs tend to rust, so some sort of finish may be appropriate.

ARP, Moser and MSI also offer wheel studs. See here. Scroll down to post 6 and 7.

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra...eview-1163334/

[Salop Farmer]

Thanks blueosprey 90 I think longer studs will be the ideal solution in my case to. I have located a couple of potential suppliers. Other jobs on the car have taken priority of late. One issue was, having converted to front disc brakes, the flexible brake pipes were rubbing on the tyre when the steering was turned. This problem has been solved by re making the brake pipe mounting bracket at the rear of the disc.

[Derek UK]

For nuts and studs https://www.mistertee.co.uk/

As I said, a chat with Rob might save you time and money getting the right ones that are also safe.

[blueosprey90]

Not Volvo, MGA, but to give you an idea of the 3" studs.

Here is a photo of my front wheel with disc brakes.




Here is a photo of my read wheel with drum brakes.




The lug nuts are about 1" long, maybe 3/4".

If you don't have the spces on the studs you need, you will need to push out one, measure the diameter and depth of the hole and then count the number of splines, then try to match that as close as you can, especially the diameter of the hole. I found spline count least important, as I was unable to match mine.

[Derek UK]

A couple of threads outboard of the nut is all you need.

[Ron Kwas]

bo90;

...any longer than that, and you will be required to register the car as a "wide Vehicle"!

[blueosprey90]

Originally Posted by Ron Kwas

bo90;

...any longer than that, and you will be required to register the car as a "wide Vehicle"!

I can get some nice wheel spikes to go along with those studs.

https://spikecraftproducts.com/produ...6-round-spike/