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What not to do when Waxoyling!!

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Old Nov 22nd, 2021, 15:21   #11
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Originally Posted by RollingThunder View Post
What a great read!

Very timely too, as I'm about to appoint someone to lather the underside of my 850 in waxoyl. This isn't the first time I've heard of people commenting on the longevity of waxoyl's odour. I might have to ask for a new quote using Dinitrol instead !
stock up on Strong air fresheners if you do go for waxoil
and be prepared for waxoil drips on the drive when the first really hot sunny day rolls around after application ,,,at least getting it done in winter May mean the smell has gone by the time the first hot and sunny day appears dont worry you Will remember that pong that day and a few others following

Ex TR7 owner , with waxoil + webasto sunroof
940s - 2l / 92 < gone&missed s401.8 xs auto <gone >V50 2.4SE Geartronic aka "the new money pit"
"skyship007 has now been successfully added to your ignore list. "."
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Old Nov 25th, 2021, 23:58   #12
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Waxoyl is just nasty crap from a time when old men in blue boiler suits had nothing else to use and had finished creosoting the garden shed and having lard sandwiches. The world has moved on, move with it.
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Old Nov 26th, 2021, 00:51   #13
Steve 940
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Hi Turbodave,

I still haven't decided best rust proofing way to go, but it was just intended as a houmorous link for a 'we've all been there' thing.

I do think I still have a tin of Dinitrol or similar in the shed that I used a bit on my last car, 56 plate Audi Allroad 3.0 tid, don't ask..... hence perhaps now a first time Volvo owner.

I think the boiler suited, waste oil and stirrup pump guys had the best intentions though, although somewhat limited to the knowledge of the 70"s.

I can still recall the smell, of my old man spraying the b'jesus of gallons of waste oil/ waxoyl mix under Ford Popular circa 1974/5 done over a friendly farmers ditch that had railway sleepers across, simple and cost effective, although nowadays I think it might be frowned upon. Unfortunately I never found out if it worked, as it threw a big end around 3 months later.

Any suggestions for a good rustproofer treatment would be welcome, ideally just to touch up any chips in the factory under seal.


Best get my pipe

Last edited by Steve 940; Nov 26th, 2021 at 00:56.
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Old Nov 26th, 2021, 10:36   #14
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Originally Posted by Turbodave View Post
Waxoyl is just nasty crap from a time when old men in blue boiler suits had nothing else to use and had finished creosoting the garden shed and having lard sandwiches. The world has moved on, move with it.
Ah-ha, the new eco friendly healthy alternative presents itself - spread the lard on the chassis!

*no offence intended to vegetarians or various religious groups.

V70 2.5 10v Torslanda Manual 98 Sreg
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Old Nov 26th, 2021, 12:40   #15
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I still have the Waxoyl paraphernalia in the garage and it is very occasionally brought into use, but not very often because of the previously mentioned thinning and warming necessary and trying to ensure that the spay nozzle and lance operate as they were intended. The worst problem is ensuring that the lance sprays around 360 degrees because it rarely does. I occasionally brush the thick unthinned Waxoyl onto items where appropriate, eg: the brake bleed nipples.
I usually use a spray can of Supertrol and regularly spray all the brake lines, pipe unions, exposed suspension nuts and bolts and other accessible parts of the floor pan, particularly the panel joining seams, also the suspension spring pans and chassis in the vicinity of wherever I am working on the car at the time. It’s quick and hassle free and seems to be effective.

Edit: I have considered Dynax-S50 by Bilt Hamber, ( as advertised in Practical Classics ) as it is available in an aerosol with 60cm.lance but haven’t actually committed to that yet. Does anyone have any observations regarding that stuff?

Since 2005: 1992 Volvo 940 estate 2.0L. Manual. Daily driver and workhorse.

Last edited by Ian21401; Nov 26th, 2021 at 15:18. Reason: Add text.
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Old Nov 26th, 2021, 13:10   #16
Bob Meadows
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The consistency of these wax treatments is mentioned quite a lot by owners:~
The pressure cannisters & plastic guns are not very good and useless if the wax isn't used hot:~

Schutz type applicator (cannister & gun with extension) is far better-obviously a compressor will be required.
A key point is to thin the treatment with clean engine oil to whatever viscosity you want- this also avoids thinning with the likes of white spirit that just flash off- oil will have long term benefits allowing the solution to creep into places that no man has gone before!

Wax treatment & Oil dilution resembles Dinatrol- I've never found any performance differences.
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