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Rainwater leaks - standard locations?

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Old Yesterday, 17:20   #21
eeedelli
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Location: Liverpool
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Oh! I didn't realise it was adjustable. Thanks for that info.

Mind you, if I adjust it one way (e.g. to make it open more, so as to get more heat (assuming there is some more movement available on the valve)) then that would suggest that the inability to cut off all flow in summer would be even worse than it is now, wouldn't it ... or does it somehow increase the range of movement at both ends of travel?

Are there different holes along the lever arm so as to multiply the movement like a gearing ratio? If so, perhaps changing to a hole nearer to the pivot would be all I need to do, as the same amount of movement of the bowden wire would then move the valve's arm over a greater angle.

I don't expect to get to this in a hurry, though, as I've just done my back in (again - regular problem) so crawling around under the dash certainly isn't going to happen any day soon, until it settles down again.
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740 SE Est '89 (post-f’lift, laid-up spares car)
940 Celebration Est ‘98 2.3 LPT (for 'best')
940 SE Est '97 2.3 LPT (Laid up, ½ shared with cousin)
440 Xi '93 (barely run-in!)

Last edited by eeedelli; Yesterday at 17:24.
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Old Yesterday, 21:24   #22
Ian21401
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I understand re your back problem David. I have recurring problems myself. I find that walking is the best exercise for mine, but we are all different.
Trying to do as I suggest is not the easiest of contortion exercises.
It is a few years since I needed to adjust mine after fitting a replacement valve. I must have obtained one of the last OEM valves.
IIRC the small clip locates over the cable outer and into a couple of slots on the valve body, one on each side of the outer, so trapping the cable outer. Releasing the clip from one of the slots releases the pressure on the cable outer enabling it to be moved slightly, either towards the valve or away from it. It doesn’t need to be moved much. Slightly too far one way will allow full movement of the valve to fully open but prevent it moving to fully closed and slightly too far the other way will permit full closure but prevent fully open. It is a very fine line between the two but there should be a point which permits full movement in each direction.
I do not recall there being more than one hole in the valve lever where the cable inner locates.
Best wishes.
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Old Yesterday, 23:49   #23
eeedelli
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Thanks Ian.

Unfortunately, similar problems with hips, knees and metatarsals (an alternative to the old wartime song of hands, knees and bumpsadaisy?) means I can't stay on my feet or walk around for too long these days either. <sigh>

Anyway, although I have yet to investigate, your excellent description makes me suspect that whoever last fiddled with it (perhaps to replace the valve) might not have replaced the clip. That would allow the outer to travel with the movement of the inner, thus reducing the *effective* movement of the valve's arm to a large extent, resulting in the situation whereby the heat output goes from 'not very much' to 'not much more'!
__________________
740 GL Est '89 (pre-f’lift, daily 'shed')
740 SE Est '89 (post-f’lift, laid-up spares car)
940 Celebration Est ‘98 2.3 LPT (for 'best')
940 SE Est '97 2.3 LPT (Laid up, ½ shared with cousin)
440 Xi '93 (barely run-in!)
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