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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Any way to test alternator?Views : 1332 Replies : 27Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 15th, 2016, 13:13 | #1 |
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Any way to test alternator?
Just checking I am not missing something. Battery died and would not keep running from a jump start. Charged it overnight and put it back in. When running the battery is only showing 12.6 v, I am assuming this means the alternator is not charging it. Is there any way to check the alternator or could it be anything else?
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Sep 15th, 2016, 13:29 | #2 |
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Click on the link in my signature for alternator testing videos.
It's important to check voltage output directly on the alternator B+ post to accurately gauge alternator performance not on the battery.
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Sep 15th, 2016, 20:54 | #3 |
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An easy way to check is to run the engine and shine the lights at something i.e a wall/fence then rev the engine. If the light gets brighter it usually means the alternator is charging. Could just be a knackered battery...
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Sep 15th, 2016, 21:47 | #4 |
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Had something similar a few weeks ago
Battery was checked by me and two others (local garage and Halfords) and was ok. 13.5V and up to 14V Alternator was shown to be charging but every few days I would have a flat battery. I swopped the alternator for a spare but I had with no improvement. Then one day, the car died while parking, wouldn't restart. The jump start pack wouldn't start it. The AA guy turned up and blamed the battery. I said no, he tested it 10V. Then touched the alternator - extremely hot. The alternator was draining the battery. Old alternator back on and a new battery - bingo - everything ticketty boo. |
Sep 16th, 2016, 18:10 | #5 |
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You should get about 14.4 V across the battery if the alternator is charging it. But cheshired5 is right, you should really check at the alternator, as there might be a voltage drop across the cable to the battery if there's a poor connection, or the cable might even be broken.
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Sep 17th, 2016, 16:17 | #6 |
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You should also check the field current excitation wire which is conencted to the warning light and a resistor.
Does it light before you start the engine? If its not charging the light should come on, but sometimes a faulty alternator can produce just enough power to put the light out. It only comes on if the alternator is completely dead. You have to have alot of resistance in the joints to drop to 12.6V, and this sounds like a poor alternator output. So as suggested check the voltage across the 2 alternator output wires. It does vary with temperature so don't worry if it closer to 13.5v but any lower than this is bad. The alternator voltage should be the same as the battery voltage, they are directly connected, but with corrosion in the loom this gradually gets worse and the voltage can drop at the battery depending on current load. Voltage drop with high beam on (from alternator to battery) <0.1V = very good 0.1-0.3V = Ok, typical for age >0.3V = Could be better, starting to slow the charge rate 1V = Half charging rate, you may well experience flat battery/no start when doing short journeys. |
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Sep 17th, 2016, 20:00 | #7 |
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First of all does the ignition warning light come on when all the other warning lights come on (position 2 of the key)?
Second question, is the alternator drive belt tight? Third are you doing mainly short runs?
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Sep 19th, 2016, 17:00 | #8 |
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No lights on the dash at all apart from seatbelt warning, I have tested the alternator with a fluke. 12v at the small wire (I assume is the primer) and if I jump the battery to the alternator (primer) it draws a current.
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Sep 19th, 2016, 17:26 | #9 |
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What's the voltage on the threaded part of the alternator b+ post?
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Sep 19th, 2016, 18:50 | #10 |
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Also put the - probe on the alternator casing, rather than the chassis or engine.
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