What did you do to your x40 today???

[coffeejunky]

MOT day today.

Failed for the first time since January 2013.
Brake pipes excessively corroded where the fuel filter is. Also excessive corrosion on front brake pipes. Kinda saw this coming as it has been an advisory for a couple of years.

Other than that, all A-OK, so pretty good for a 17 year old car doing 11k miles a year.
Will cost approx £220.

Thermostat seems to be stuck open, also. So that's another job to do, but will do that myself.

[bimmer49]

My brake pipes rusted on the left of the back axle, up above the plastic protection cover. Mud gets on top and rots the pipes. I bought a reel of brake pipe and 10 couplings (£14) and a flaring tool (£19) and replaced 2 coroded pipes. It was a bit fiddly being gentle bending them but done the job. 2 hours tops.

[clarkey1984]

Thought I'd start fitting the towbar after work seeing as it's the first semi decent weather we've had in a few days, figured I'd probably get it mostly done in the hour and a half or so I was trying to kill, oh how wrong I was.

I already know that the pre threaded holes in the chassis rails don't work without a tap run through them first, which I did on one side, tap handle doesn't fit for the horizontal ones of course so fiddling around with some stupid small imperial spanner which took a while.

Time to drill a hole in the floor then, bolt and spacer fitted, lovely, apart from I've forgotten to put the plate on in the boot that's held with the bumper bolt, so undo my long bolt again and remove spacer, I now have mud and crap in my eyes for about the seventeenth time.

Bumper bolt undoes about 3 turns then stops solid, oh yeah I remember, captive nut inside chassis nonsense, wd40 and wind it back in, then out again about a twentieth of a turn further than last time, add more WD and repeat for about 42 months until it finally comes out.

Add plate, and the drill must have wandered earlier because once the plate is in place my hole is about 4mm out, redrilling is impossible from the top because the holes about a nanometre from the back of the car, struggle from underneath because the drill keeps biting, mud in eyes for the eighteenth time.

Realise that this was the passengers side, so the easy side, as the drivers side requires the heatshield and probably the back box off, realise it's taken you 1h20 to essentially drill one hole and fit 4 bolts, lock the workshop, mutter something uncomplementary about towbars, roll cigarette, go home.

[canis]

Must admit, it took a day to do mine. I had the bumper off already, and it's much easier to hold the captive nuts still with an open ended spanner poked into the box section where the bumper irons go.

I also put some bolts through the floor, and the tow-bar I had was evidently designed to do this as it had some extra angles with pre-drilled holes. I noticed on your picture, yours didn't have quite so many of these. At first I left them, relying only on the Volvo dillings, but I wasn't happy with it, and decided to plug every single hole. And yes, it did mean taking the exhaust off.

It's a long faff of metalwork, but you only do it once, so it might as well be strong as possible. I decided a couple of extra hours now would be better than a tow-bar hanging by only one remaining bolt, dragging on the floor, trying to nurse it home gently without attracting police attention on the M6... or worse.

So I chose the over-engineering route. It's bolted to buggery. I reckon I could pick up the whole car by it now. And it makes a really useful jacking point.

[V40Vinnie]

Finally got the fault codes read so here they are for your advice,

2002 T4 Sport

P0025
P0044
P0091

symptoms misfire under cold, occasional hunting.

Clarky the Galant wheels look mint on your V40 did you have to do anything?

[clarkey1984]

Originally Posted by canis

Must admit, it took a day to do mine. I had the bumper off already, and it's much easier to hold the captive nuts still with an open ended spanner poked into the box section where the bumper irons go.

I also put some bolts through the floor, and the tow-bar I had was evidently designed to do this as it had some extra angles with pre-drilled holes. I noticed on your picture, yours didn't have quite so many of these. At first I left them, relying only on the Volvo dillings, but I wasn't happy with it, and decided to plug every single hole. And yes, it did mean taking the exhaust off.

It's a long faff of metalwork, but you only do it once, so it might as well be strong as possible. I decided a couple of extra hours now would be better than a tow-bar hanging by only one remaining bolt, dragging on the floor, trying to nurse it home gently without attracting police attention on the M6... or worse.

So I chose the over-engineering route. It's bolted to buggery. I reckon I could pick up the whole car by it now. And it makes a really useful jacking point.

Mine is the Witter one, I didn't have the instructions but luckily the web had a picture to go by, it's this one, and agreed about removing the bumper, it probably would make things easier, but after 4 goes at refitting the orange ones bumper and still failing to get it properly latched in the clips on each side I gave up and left it with a small bulge each side. I had planned to finish the fitting Friday evening and yesterday morning, but after contracting the hideous norovirus that the rest of the house has been dealing with since Monday (made it all the way to Friday afternoon, thought I'd dodged it) I'm now only just beginning to feel human again, so it'll have to wait.

[canis]

Originally Posted by clarkey1984

Mine is the Witter one, I didn't have the instructions but luckily the web had a picture to go by, it's this one, and agreed about removing the bumper, it probably would make things easier, but after 4 goes at refitting the orange ones bumper and still failing to get it properly latched in the clips on each side I gave up and left it with a small bulge each side. I had planned to finish the fitting Friday evening and yesterday morning, but after contracting the hideous norovirus that the rest of the house has been dealing with since Monday (made it all the way to Friday afternoon, thought I'd dodged it) I'm now only just beginning to feel human again, so it'll have to wait.

Ack! Yeah, it's nasty! I was in bed for three days almost delireous. Get well soon.

Items G1 look like spacers for inside the box section chassis. If that's the case, then you'll definitely have to remove the bumper to get those in there. These are to stop the long bolts crushing and deforming the chassis. When I was coachbuilding, we were told these were legally necessary. I've not checked the legality, but I think I'd agree they're necessary. The only other method is to "top hat" the chassis, which is probably too much to take on without workshop facilities.

My bar didn't put bolts right through the box section, only into the captive nuts, and is probably why it had the extra angles either side.

I found the bumper was suprisingly easy to get back on. I just guessed the cut-out bit.

[clarkey1984]

Originally Posted by canis

Ack! Yeah, it's nasty! I was in bed for three days almost delireous. Get well soon.

Items G1 look like spacers for inside the box section chassis. If that's the case, then you'll definitely have to remove the bumper to get those in there. These are to stop the long bolts crushing and deforming the chassis. When I was coachbuilding, we were told these were legally necessary. I've not checked the legality, but I think I'd agree they're necessary. The only other method is to "top hat" the chassis, which is probably too much to take on without workshop facilities.

My bar didn't put bolts right through the box section, only into the captive nuts, and is probably why it had the extra angles either side.

I found the bumper was suprisingly easy to get back on. I just guessed the cut-out bit.

Very close but not quite, on mine the holes marked D line up with the pre threaded chassis holes, G is where you have to drill the additional hole and fit the G1 spacer, which picks up on the outermost hole in the plates marked H, the innermost holes 'K' pick up on the existing bumper bolt.

[gazO2V40T4]

Originally Posted by V40Vinnie

Finally got the fault codes read so here they are for your advice,

2002 T4 Sport

P0025
P0044
P0091

symptoms misfire under cold, occasional hunting.

Clarky the Galant wheels look mint on your V40 did you have to do anything?

Here is what it says about the codes

[gazO2V40T4]

Originally Posted by V40Vinnie

Finally got the fault codes read so here they are for your advice,

2002 T4 Sport

P0025
P0044
P0091

symptoms misfire under cold, occasional hunting.

Clarky the Galant wheels look mint on your V40 did you have to do anything?

I would suggest the first code points towards vvt solenoid or pulley being the issue as this is on the exhaust camshaft which will probably be contributing to the second code of o2 sensor readings being beyond the required parameter

The third code points to fuel pressure regulator which is a common thing to fail on the T4

When I first purchased my T4 I think I had similar problems and I changed all sorts of sensors but still kept getting the same codes it wasn’t until I fitted a new cambelt and reset the vvt pulley that they cleared

Are you experiencing any misfire whilst driving specifically when accelerating hard