TF-80SC Fluid Change Done - Page 4

timh30 · May 26th, 2015, 23:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdmuddin

Thanks both of you for your replies. I'm planning to go for it once I'm confident I've got as much info as I need/can get.

Regarding your recommendation to not go for the Gibbons and stick with the sump-dump, can I ask for the reasons? Are there any particular risk that you foresee or is it the fact that there are no reports (at least that I could find) of someone doing it and successfully?

The main attraction towards the Gibbon's method for my situation is to get the incorrect Dexron 3 stuff out asap and hopefully in one go. If I did the sump-dump a few times over and with some intervals, my main fear is that I will still end up with some sort of diluted ATF which is mixed between old and new as well as correct and incorrect fluid type, not to mention 2 different oils anyway.

Why is the garage not fixing this for you at their expense - or do you not trust them based on their inability so far?

mdmuddin · May 26th, 2015, 23:43

Well, they didn't charge me for the 4 ltrs of Dexron they put in and I'm assuming that's because it was their fault. It's not that I think they will lie, but I don't think they have the Volvo know-how. The main reason for not going back to them is because I don't trust them with the Volvo.

Also, my pockets are currently pretty empty. If it was something that could wait, I would've considered saving up and getting it done elsewhere but can't afford that ATM. I'm regretting giving them car in the first place but I guess what's happened has happened.

They have been reliable before but that was with VWs and Japanese cars.

timh30 · May 27th, 2015, 01:06

That was good of them not to charge you for the wrong fluid that could potentially ruin your gearbox!

The way I see it they should be taking responsibility for this to be fixed - not you. With you personally fixing it, if the gearbox still subsequently fails (due to damage already suffered by their mistake), you will have no comeback with them.

I hope you get this sorted and have no further trouble, but I do think you've let the garage completely off the hook on this.

P.S. I would personally suggest the gibbons method initially as you will get more 'bad' fluid out on the very first hit (drop the sump oil first - top up, then get a few drains from the cooler hose) - which is clearly your aim.

mdmuddin · May 27th, 2015, 10:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by scvolvo

I've performed gearbox flushes a few times on the 4,5 and 6sp boxes.

I've flushed my tf80sc twice and would just say, use the sump drop method not the oil cooler pump out method, also allow a good while between sump drops, I usually leave it at least a week to force the oil around the box a good 150 miles.

@SCVolvo

Regarding your recommendation to not go for the Gibbons and stick with the sump-dump, can I ask for the reasons? Are there any particular risk that you foresee or is it the fact that there are no reports (at least that I could find) of someone doing it and successfully?

PeteB1 · May 28th, 2015, 12:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdmuddin

@SCVolvo

Regarding your recommendation to not go for the Gibbons and stick with the sump-dump, can I ask for the reasons? Are there any particular risk that you foresee or is it the fact that there are no reports (at least that I could find) of someone doing it and successfully?

The sump dump/fill is an easier process to perform, especially on this car with the airfilter/ECU issue to get at the filler plug. If done regularly, I perform a single dump/fill every 20k miles, it will ensure that the fluid is always well refreshed.

However, your problem has been compounded by a partial fill of the incorrect oil, and by the sound of it, overfilled. Even if you used one of the multispec fluids that are supposed to be compatible with both the Dexron 3 and JWS3309, you would still have Dexron 3 in there. That probably makes it more desirable to perform the Gibbons flush on yours, at least this first time.

mdmuddin · Jun 4th, 2015, 14:06

Finally got hold of all the bits and bobs I need.
Got a Chinese DICE to which gives the ATF temp reading. I had to drive the car for about 10 min's to get it up to 50 degrees.
The levelling process was quite easy. The stuff that came out was anything but red. I'm attaching a couple of pic's of the brown muck that came out.
Ordered 10ltrs of Mobil 3309 from Germany through Ebay. Came in the predicted 3 days.

Will hopefully do the flush tomorrow or Saturday.

Will Take pic's/vid's hopefully.

mdmuddin · Jun 4th, 2015, 14:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdmuddin

Finally got hold of all the bits and bobs I need.
Got a Chinese DICE to which gives the ATF temp reading. I had to drive the car for about 10 min's to get it up to 50 degrees.
The levelling process was quite easy. The stuff that came out was anything but red. I'm attaching a couple of pic's of the brown muck that came out.
Ordered 10ltrs of Mobil 3309 from Germany through Ebay. Came in the predicted 3 days.

Will hopefully do the flush tomorrow or Saturday.

Will Take pic's/vid's hopefully.

The pic's don't seem to have uploaded the first time

blueacid · Jun 5th, 2015, 12:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by mdmuddin

The pic's don't seem to have uploaded the first time

When I did mine (ok, the AW55-50SN instead), the fluid came out looking grimy like that.

Wasn't it really satisfying to see the horrible fluid come out and to put the clean fluid in? The colour difference for me was frightening - from a deep brown/black to the same red as the wrapper for a Kit Kat! (ok I don't know if the 6 speed gearbox uses different colour new fluid).

mdmuddin · Jun 5th, 2015, 12:27

It's the same fluid in both boxes.
I haven't done the full drain yet. I'm eagerly awaiting the crush washer to arrive from FRF. Interlink says the driver is about 30 min's away

So, I look forward to seeing the dark stuff come out and the light stuff go in.

4candles · Jun 5th, 2015, 12:32

The colour comes from repeated heat cycles and clutch friction plate particles, made up of paper and resin, yes paper! Also some metal particles from the clutch drive plates, traces of aluminium and rubber from solenoids in there too.

Plus the filter is quite an open structure, so as not to block too easily,
A magnetic filter mod is around on this forum, and its remarkable what this traps also....

May 27th, 2015, 01:06	#33
timh30 Senior Member Last Online: Jun 9th, 2022 17:33 Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Kent	That was good of them not to charge you for the wrong fluid that could potentially ruin your gearbox! The way I see it they should be taking responsibility for this to be fixed - not you. With you personally fixing it, if the gearbox still subsequently fails (due to damage already suffered by their mistake), you will have no comeback with them. I hope you get this sorted and have no further trouble, but I do think you've let the garage completely off the hook on this. P.S. I would personally suggest the gibbons method initially as you will get more 'bad' fluid out on the very first hit (drop the sump oil first - top up, then get a few drains from the cooler hose) - which is clearly your aim. __________________ Me: 2001 V70 2.4 SE Wife: 2004 XC90 D5 SE

May 26th, 2015, 23:43	#32
mdmuddin Member Last Online: Nov 18th, 2016 10:18 Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: North London	Well, they didn't charge me for the 4 ltrs of Dexron they put in and I'm assuming that's because it was their fault. It's not that I think they will lie, but I don't think they have the Volvo know-how. The main reason for not going back to them is because I don't trust them with the Volvo. Also, my pockets are currently pretty empty. If it was something that could wait, I would've considered saving up and getting it done elsewhere but can't afford that ATM. I'm regretting giving them car in the first place but I guess what's happened has happened. They have been reliable before but that was with VWs and Japanese cars.

Jun 4th, 2015, 14:06	#36
mdmuddin Member Last Online: Nov 18th, 2016 10:18 Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: North London	Finally got hold of all the bits and bobs I need. Got a Chinese DICE to which gives the ATF temp reading. I had to drive the car for about 10 min's to get it up to 50 degrees. The levelling process was quite easy. The stuff that came out was anything but red. I'm attaching a couple of pic's of the brown muck that came out. Ordered 10ltrs of Mobil 3309 from Germany through Ebay. Came in the predicted 3 days. Will hopefully do the flush tomorrow or Saturday. Will Take pic's/vid's hopefully.

Jun 5th, 2015, 12:27	#39
mdmuddin Member Last Online: Nov 18th, 2016 10:18 Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: North London	It's the same fluid in both boxes. I haven't done the full drain yet. I'm eagerly awaiting the crush washer to arrive from FRF. Interlink says the driver is about 30 min's away So, I look forward to seeing the dark stuff come out and the light stuff go in.

Jun 5th, 2015, 12:32	#40
4candles I've Been Banned Last Online: Mar 19th, 2016 19:57 Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Yondershire	The colour comes from repeated heat cycles and clutch friction plate particles, made up of paper and resin, yes paper! Also some metal particles from the clutch drive plates, traces of aluminium and rubber from solenoids in there too. Plus the filter is quite an open structure, so as not to block too easily, A magnetic filter mod is around on this forum, and its remarkable what this traps also....

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