TF-80SC Fluid Change Done

[Kev0607]

Hi,

How many litres of transmission fluid do you need to buy? I have a P3 shape S80 with the TF80SC gearbox.

1. I've read that some people simply drain what they can out of the transmission (Usually 4l max) using the drain & fill method, then pour the same amount of fresh fluid back in & leave it at that (One drain/fill).

2. Some do one drain & fill, drive a few hundred miles & then repeat the process two/three times over a period of time.

3. Some do multiple drain/fills all at once, but that means you’d have to have plenty of transmission fluid to hand

Which option is best & do you need to reset the adaptions after changing the fluid?

Thanks in advance.

[barrybritcher]

Originally Posted by c_lee

Your Geartronic S60 has a TF80SC.

2007 UK brochure says only 2.4D and D5 euro 4 cars had the option of 6 speed.

5 speed in 2.5T and T5

[cbv8]

Originally Posted by PeteB1

I got around to doing a sump dump and fill on my 6 speed TF-80SC auto box today. This is for the D5, some of the components that have to be removed to get to the various plugs may be different on other engine variants.

Tools Required:

4 litres of JWS3309 fluid of your choice - I went with the Volvo fluid as it was cheaper than either Mobil 3309 or Toyota T-IV.
Torx 40 driver (for level check plug as part of the integral level check/drain plug).
Torx 55 driver (for filler plug).
17mm hex sump plug removal tool.
Long flexi funnel.
Measuring jugs (to check amount removed and measure same amount for addition).

As it was the first time and I couldn't find much info on the 6 speed (there is loads for the 5 speed) it took a while as I didn't want to get into a problem point of no return so this was my procedure:

First, remove the undertray and check the level plug loosens OK but don't remove at this stage. Then get the car as level as possible.

Then, remove the air filter housing so the filler is accessible and loosen the filler plug with the relevant Torx driver. It was quite tight but came undone. ONLY remove the Torx 55 plug, don't touch any other bolt head.

Having checked all this, then put the drain bowl underneath, removed the level check plug fully and let the little bit of fluid drain out into the bowl. Once this stops, then undo the drain plug with the hex tool and let the main bulk of the fluid drain out. I left this about an hour to let as much drain down as possible.

Clean the drain plug and level plug, re-install and tighten them both.

Using one of the measuring jugs, measure the amount of fluid that was drained. I was surprised to find that only 2.5 litres had drained from the sump, a little less than the 3 litres or so that those with 5 speed versions often say drains from the sump.

Clean around the filler plug and remove it. Install the long flexi funnel. The filler tube is angled so the funnel cannot be pushed in too far.

Using another clean measuring jug, carefully measure out and fill with the same quantity of fluid through the funnel. Once done, re-install and tighten the filler plug.

Re-assemble the air filter etc, then start the engine and check everything is OK.

As my car is on 58k miles, I intend now to run the car for about 500 miles and repeat the process. As I only got 2.4 litres out, I may even do a third change after another 500 miles or so, then at least a quantity of fluid equivalent to the total box volume has been changed. After the third change, I will do a proper level check even though careful measurement has been used in checking fluid removed and matching the amount added as I have no record of the level being checked prior to the change.

The 6 speed is claimed by Volvo (but not necessarily other manufacturers who use it) as "fill for life".

I attach a photo of what came out next to what went in.

Attachment 46155

Now, with my limited but not all that good experience of auto boxes in the past, I wouldn't fancy leaving that in and expecting to get several 100k miles without a problem. That fluid smelt and looked not dissimilar to what I remember removing from Borg Warner 35 boxes I had in a couple of cars in the 1980's. In both cases, these boxes were giving trouble around the 100k mile mark. In one case, terminal failure soon followed, in the other I sold the car before it got that far.

So, I leave others to decide on the validity of "fill for life" when a large annual mileage is being done.

Very good read up Pete i just p/xd my XC90 for a Galaxy which has the same transmission so will be doing this soon but is it necessary to get the car level if i will be adding the same amount of fluid as removed?

[Simmy]

why does it have drain and fill plugs if your not suposed to change the fluid?

[stuart bowes]

Originally Posted by cbv8

is it necessary to get the car level

as far as I understand it having done it three times on mine, the old stuff pours out easy enough without needing to be level, but I have read that a little more comes out if the car is tilted over in the direction of the drain plug (on mine that would be lifted higher on the passenger side) I suppose that's fairly obvious really but how much that really matters is probably academic

being level seems to be only relevant to getting a correct level reading with the dipstick (after filling up, getting the gearbox fluid warm and cycling through all the gear lever positions)

someone can correct if that's wrong.. I also just measured what came out, and put the same back in, and had no issues at all with being bang on the right level again afterwards

Originally Posted by Kev0607

do you need to reset the adaptions after changing the fluid

unless I have misunderstood, the adaptations are usually done when you replace components like the valve body / solenoids / tcm module? I was under the impression that you only need to reset the fluid change counter (although I'd be interested in some clarification about what effect that has, other than just being a future reference point)

[cbv8]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

as far as I understand it having done it three times on mine, the old stuff pours out easy enough without needing to be level, but I have read that a little more comes out if the car is tilted over in the direction of the drain plug (on mine that would be lifted higher on the passenger side) I suppose that's fairly obvious really but how much that really matters is probably academic

being level seems to be only relevant to getting a correct level reading with the dipstick (after filling up, getting the gearbox fluid warm and cycling through all the gear lever positions)

someone can correct if that's wrong.. I also just measured what came out, and put the same back in, and had no issues at all with being bang on the right level again afterwards



unless I have misunderstood, the adaptations are usually done when you replace components like the valve body / solenoids / tcm module? I was under the impression that you only need to reset the fluid change counter (although I'd be interested in some clarification about what effect that has, other than just being a future reference point)

Thanks Stuart,
I plan on changing mine cold to cold ie not run and stood overnight with the fluid in my cold garage so no temperature difference between the fluid and the box

[stuart bowes]

yeah the 'warming' up occurs after the refil, take it for a drive for 20mins or so, use all your gears, VIDA does give you a temperature reading if you've got access to that

I still say you can't go wrong as long as you're accurate with your measurements on removal and refill, and you don't spill any..

mine was a bit awkward to refill through the dipstick hole halfway down inside the engine bay, take a bit of time first to make sure your tubing all fits nicely, and don't pour too quick because it's gloopy stuff and takes a while to sink in

also has anyone mentioned additive, I went with Lube gard on a recommendation by others and it certainly hasn't done any harm

[cbv8]

Originally Posted by stuart bowes

yeah the 'warming' up occurs after the refil, take it for a drive for 20mins or so, use all your gears, VIDA does give you a temperature reading if you've got access to that

I still say you can't go wrong as long as you're accurate with your measurements on removal and refill, and you don't spill any..

mine was a bit awkward to refill through the dipstick hole halfway down inside the engine bay, take a bit of time first to make sure your tubing all fits nicely, and don't pour too quick because it's gloopy stuff and takes a while to sink in

also has anyone mentioned additive, I went with Lube gard on a recommendation by others and it certainly hasn't done any harm

When i did my 05 XC90 i did a dump sump ie replaced exactly what came out with the same amount ie engine cold fluid cold i planned to do the same again several times every 1000 miles but alas sold my 90! I measured the EXACT amount and will do the same this time with meticulous precision and cleanliness obsessed i think you call it as far as additives go there not for me

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by cbv8

When i did my 05 XC90 i did a dump sump ie replaced exactly what came out with the same amount ie engine cold fluid cold i planned to do the same again several times every 1000 miles but alas sold my 90! I measured the EXACT amount and will do the same this time with meticulous precision and cleanliness obsessed i think you call it as far as additives go there not for me

I think its best practice to change the fluid when its warm, i.e. bring it for a drive before you do the fluid change, then drain it, fill the transmission back up matching what you drained & then bring it for a drive whilst cycling through the gears, or at the very minimum cycling through the gears whilst the car is stationary. If you have VIDA, you can check the fluid temperature & then finally set the level when VIDA shows the fluid is at 50-60 degrees celcius.

I apply the same practice changing transmission fluid as engine oil. Its best to get the oil warm before changing it, in my opinion.

[Willow place]

I tried Lubegard but overtime the 'box started to revert back to it's old self, then I read about Lucas Auto fix, think Horton cars recommend it, what a difference, I can now go into reverse without waiting 15 seconds or so !! (when hot ) 2003 D5 330 km .