Engine 850: B5234T/2.3/20v/T5: Starting issue

[ShadeTek]

I read a post recently where a guy had some intermittent problems on warm-up, but it might help you out Stuart. He had anti-freeze spill onto his ECT sensor spade terminal which caused it to corroded and go open circuit only as the car warmed up. You could try cleaning the terminals(I use a fibre glass pen available from Taits in Glasgow http://www.taitcomponents.co.uk/Prod...=Tools&iPage=1 ). It cleans oxide off without removing the tinning and causing further corrosion if you're not too heavy with it.

The codes We pulled could have been from long ago, it's hard to say but if you build yourself a code puller, you can see which ones come back. Also We pulled some codes from the immobiliser which suggests there is or was problems in there. That usually means the engine won't even turn over, but in Stuarts case, it is turning oiver but not firing. I would check the volts drop as the engine is cranking incase there's not enought power for the ECU to work as well. When I get the kids to bed I will post the Screen grab of the VOL-FCR codes.

Originally Posted by stuartvolvo

I have thought about that chow, but i would have thought that even if the ecu did enrich the mixture that it would at least still allow the car to spark, so i am thinking more on the bad earth side and electrical interferance from the starter motor, as i dont think the ecu is picking up the camshaft signal or rpm signal when trying to crank becuase of electrical interferance from the starter motor, although it is difficult to prove it. The car starts first time with a push or a two, which is eliminating only the starter motor and assosiated wiring, so it must be something on these lines that is cuasing my starting issues.

sorry didnt realize you were not getting a spark when warm, bloody strange one this why would you get no spark when warm? and then after a few cranks you do get one? however it will start on a bump?????? let me thinkabout this for a while...........................................?? ??????

[stuartvolvo]

Yeh thanks chow. I really appreicate it. It does not matter if the car is hot or cold or how long it has been run for. It takes excessive cranking to start. There is no spark to start with and then suddenely she will start. If she is pushed or towed she will start straight away without any problems at all and runs so smoothley.

Im getting a bit frustraighted at you could probabley imagine.
Any help would be appreciated.

[ShadeTek]

OK one kid in bed an Jason the Volvo baby is being fed so time to post the IMM codes I got from Staurts T5 earlier.
This may shine a light on things a bit more....or not.

i bet you are, is it possible for you to mesure the voltage (if any) being supplied by the LT circuit to the coil pack during cranking when hot?

[stuartvolvo]

Chow, what exactley do you mean by the lt circuit, my mind has drawn a blank at the moment,

Regards
Stuart

[ShadeTek]

He means the Low Tension circuit. IE the 12VDC to the coil. (as opposed to the HT).

Originally Posted by stuartvolvo

Chow, what exactley do you mean by the lt circuit, my mind has drawn a blank at the moment,

Regards
Stuart

hi i mean the low tension (battery voltage) supply to the coil pack as opposed to the high tension feed from the coil to the ht leads

[stuartvolvo]

I have not checked the voltage in the lt circuit while cranking, but i have checked it with the ignition on and i was getting a reading of 11.78v

I could check that for you first thing tomorrow morning and let you know

[ShadeTek]

Originally Posted by stuartvolvo

I have not checked the voltage in the lt circuit while cranking, but i have checked it with the ignition on and i was getting a reading of 11.78v

Is this voltage reading with the engine running or not?