D5 issues, turbo adjustment

[v_matt_v]

Originally Posted by alen909

Hello all, i have no ECM6805 codes or limp mode, had it once but it was related to the front engine mount.
As time was passing by i noticed a light loss in power, oil consumption, greyish smoke on acceleration and white smoke 10 secs after a cold start continuing for a couple of minutes while the engine runs hot, these days on 0 degrees C a lighter instance of the white smoke continues also while the engine is hot.
The car is a 2005 163HP D5 S60 and has cca 150k miles lubed by 5W30, preforming the cleaning of the turbo would some of these issues? Anybody has an idea what these issues could been related to?

I would say it's the turbo - leaking oil. That would explain the oil consumption and the white smoke

[Simon Jones]

Isn't blue smoke more typical of burning oil, while white can be caused by water?

[alen909]

I'm not quite sure about what causes the blue smoke, i've red somewhere that it is indeed because of the burn of the oil somewhere in the engine.
Im having white smoke instead, just a few seconds after start and it disappears when the engine gets hot. It produces a awful gas like smell. On low temperatures i noticed it also during acceleration. How i can confirm if the turbo is burning oil, if it is leaking it can be seen easily i suppose by having a look under the bonet...

[janikw]

Hi,
My car kept going into limp mode at 2500rpm every day and on almost every overtake or when the car went up hill. Turning the ignition off would reset it – until next time. I borrowed a Snap-On diagnostic reader from a local garage and it listed the dreaded 6805. It was getting on my nerves, so being a reasonably competent DIYer, I decided to follow the threads on this forum to attempt to diagnose.

1) I started with the intercooler, which was bulging, terribly bowed and leaking oil. Thinking this would be the culprit, I purchased a new aftermarket intercooler for £120, removed the bumper and fitted it. Total time 2 hours.
No difference! Same problem! Very disappointed!

2) I then took the Turbo Governor off and cleaned it. Total time 15 minutes.
No difference!

3) I then tested the engine mounts by clamping the vacuum pipe.
No difference!

4) I then check all the vacuum hoses for leaks or damage.
Nothing found.

I was dreading the turbo, but what the heck. I started following the pictures on this thread to attempt to get the turbo off.

It took 2 hours to get the turbo off the car. I too wasted time looking for a way to get the turbo out without taking the exhaust apart as it looks like it should come out, but alas, it doesn’t. My exhaust bolts had all but disintegrated and I’m really short on tools.

It is much easier to remove the whole exhaust from the car than to attempt to take it apart in these circumstances. Being DIY, I didn’t even have a ramp, just the car jack and a couple of bricks. Just remove the 6 bolts holding the exhaust heat shielding on and pull the exhaust hangers out of the rubber blocks and pull the entire exhaust out of the back of the car.

So in summary:
1) Remove 3 bolts and take off top engine torsion bar.
2) Remove 5 bolts and remove exhaust head shielding.
3) Disconnect exhaust from turbo – gasket here.
4) Disconnect turbo from exhaust manifold – gasket here.
5) Undo 2 pipe clips and remove rubber pipes.
6) Take off small vacuum pipe.
7) Undo oil feed union – 2 copper washers here 1 above, 1 below.
8) Undo 2 oil drain bolts – gasket here.
9) Undo 6 exhaust heat shield bolts.
10) Take exhaust brackets out of rubber hangers – remove entire exhaust from car.
11) Extract turbo out through drive train.

All but 3 or 4 bolts were done from above with good access.

OK, so turbo out, back to the dismantling. No necked of bolts and nothing particularly seized was a good start. After splitting the turbo open, I remove the soot as in the photos, a bowl full of petrol worked really well, just took 10 minutes to clean to a sparkle with an old toothbrush. I cleaned all the rollers, pins, vanes, ring, casting, everything, and it seemed to operate much more smoothly.

I then spun the turbo shaft with my fingers and noticed play in the shaft, I wobbled each end, and to me it seems excessive. Not knowing anything about turbo bearings, can anybody comment on what excessive is? This is probably moving around 0.5mm, maybe a little more. There is no evidence of it touching the casting though.

I thought that if I had come this far, it would be sensible to investigate if the bearings need replacing, so I foolishly started to take the compressor wheel off later realising that it would now never be balanced again. It was midnight by that time and I had just broken my torx 20 bit attempting to get inside, so called it a day and went in to clean those finger nails.
I then spent an hour on the internet looking for service kits for Garrett turbos and learnt a great deal about turbos in general. I now realise that I’ll need to replace the seals and bearings and then have it re-balanced.
That’s as far as I am, so I’ll post back with costs and parts as soon as the shops open as it’s Sunday today!

[Clan]

Originally Posted by janikw

Hi,
My car kept going into limp mode at 2500rpm every day and on almost every overtake or when the car went up hill. Turning the ignition off would reset it – until next time. I borrowed a Snap-On diagnostic reader from a local garage and it listed the dreaded 6805. It was getting on my nerves, so being a reasonably competent DIYer, I decided to follow the threads on this forum to attempt to diagnose.

1) I started with the intercooler, which was bulging, terribly bowed and leaking oil. Thinking this would be the culprit, I purchased a new aftermarket intercooler for £120, removed the bumper and fitted it. Total time 2 hours.
No difference! Same problem! Very disappointed!

2) I then took the Turbo Governor off and cleaned it. Total time 15 minutes.
No difference!

3) I then tested the engine mounts by clamping the vacuum pipe.
No difference!

4) I then check all the vacuum hoses for leaks or damage.
Nothing found.

I was dreading the turbo, but what the heck. I started following the pictures on this thread to attempt to get the turbo off.

It took 2 hours to get the turbo off the car. I too wasted time looking for a way to get the turbo out without taking the exhaust apart as it looks like it should come out, but alas, it doesn’t. My exhaust bolts had all but disintegrated and I’m really short on tools.

It is much easier to remove the whole exhaust from the car than to attempt to take it apart in these circumstances. Being DIY, I didn’t even have a ramp, just the car jack and a couple of bricks. Just remove the 6 bolts holding the exhaust heat shielding on and pull the exhaust hangers out of the rubber blocks and pull the entire exhaust out of the back of the car.

So in summary:
1) Remove 3 bolts and take off top engine torsion bar.
2) Remove 5 bolts and remove exhaust head shielding.
3) Disconnect exhaust from turbo – gasket here.
4) Disconnect turbo from exhaust manifold – gasket here.
5) Undo 2 pipe clips and remove rubber pipes.
6) Take off small vacuum pipe.
7) Undo oil feed union – 2 copper washers here 1 above, 1 below.
8) Undo 2 oil drain bolts – gasket here.
9) Undo 6 exhaust heat shield bolts.
10) Take exhaust brackets out of rubber hangers – remove entire exhaust from car.
11) Extract turbo out through drive train.

All but 3 or 4 bolts were done from above with good access.

OK, so turbo out, back to the dismantling. No necked of bolts and nothing particularly seized was a good start. After splitting the turbo open, I remove the soot as in the photos, a bowl full of petrol worked really well, just took 10 minutes to clean to a sparkle with an old toothbrush. I cleaned all the rollers, pins, vanes, ring, casting, everything, and it seemed to operate much more smoothly.

I then spun the turbo shaft with my fingers and noticed play in the shaft, I wobbled each end, and to me it seems excessive. Not knowing anything about turbo bearings, can anybody comment on what excessive is? This is probably moving around 0.5mm, maybe a little more. There is no evidence of it touching the casting though.

I thought that if I had come this far, it would be sensible to investigate if the bearings need replacing, so I foolishly started to take the compressor wheel off later realising that it would now never be balanced again. It was midnight by that time and I had just broken my torx 20 bit attempting to get inside, so called it a day and went in to clean those finger nails.
I then spent an hour on the internet looking for service kits for Garrett turbos and learnt a great deal about turbos in general. I now realise that I’ll need to replace the seals and bearings and then have it re-balanced.
That’s as far as I am, so I’ll post back with costs and parts as soon as the shops open as it’s Sunday today!

There was nothing at all wrong with the turbo shaft bearings , they are floating bearings which self centralise , there is supposed to be some up/down movment BUT no in/out ( axial ) movment at all . It might be best to get a used turbocharger now ...

[janikw]

Thanks for the advice, I didn't know this before taking it apart. I intend to purchase a reconditioning kit and get it re-balanced. It did have a slight whiney noise (my other s60 doesn't) and I thought leaked a little too much oil into the intercooler, so maybe this will fix it. Still should be far cheaper than a recon turbo.

[janikw]

I bought a garrett turbo reconditioning kit for £30, and it cost me £30 to have the shaft balanced, picked up a gasket set from Volvo in Preston for £16 on the way back, and started the meticulous cleaning and re-assembly process. It took several hours, mostly on silly things like the heat shield and getting the oil drain back in the sump, the actual turbo part was relatively smooth and straight forward.

After turning the engine over to oil and prime the turbo, I then let the engine idle for 10-15 minutes to inspect underneath for leaks, etc. I then headed off for the maiden voyage and the difference is amazing, I bought the car 3.5 years old 6 years ago and I never remember it being as good as this. The whole power delivery is different and better, the turbo now whistles as it should, doesn't whine anymore, and better still, 6805 has vanished at last!

Any DIYers out there thinking of taking it on - It's hard work, but the end result is very satisfying.

[chrisdc]

Originally Posted by janikw

I bought a garrett turbo reconditioning kit for £30, and it cost me £30 to have the shaft balanced, picked up a gasket set from Volvo in Preston for £16 on the way back, and started the meticulous cleaning and re-assembly process. It took several hours, mostly on silly things like the heat shield and getting the oil drain back in the sump, the actual turbo part was relatively smooth and straight forward.

After turning the engine over to oil and prime the turbo, I then let the engine idle for 10-15 minutes to inspect underneath for leaks, etc. I then headed off for the maiden voyage and the difference is amazing, I bought the car 3.5 years old 6 years ago and I never remember it being as good as this. The whole power delivery is different and better, the turbo now whistles as it should, doesn't whine anymore, and better still, 6805 has vanished at last!

Any DIYers out there thinking of taking it on - It's hard work, but the end result is very satisfying.

Well done for persevering Janikw! You deserve that feeling of satisfaction. Good for you

[Dieselchugger]

Hi fellas, great thread.

I had similar problem on my 2005 V70 D5 (123k miles) ie. car goes into Limp Mode when you boot it hard. Decided to try using Redex Diesel additive to clean up the entire turbo vanes/EGR/manifold/injectors etc. and so far (touching wood here) it cured the problem for under £20!

Give the car a good long run up the motorway to give the Redex a chance to work at fully hot operating temperatures.

Redex apparently uses catalysts and detergents to slowly clean the goo and soot out of the whole injector/head/turbo/exhaust system and is safe to use with cat exhausts too.

So maybe try this first before getting all oily?

[professer]

Agree with dieselchugger (for now anyway :-)

Had this issue, normally when shunting it over 4000 rpm. It's my wife's car so she never noticed it, but it surely bothered me driving this lovely diesel in limp mode.

This week I ended up replacing front engine mount (which was shot) but that didn' t fix it. Then did the turbo control valve (based on error code I got read by a helpful indy in my area) and clean up of inlet manifold (not planned but couldn't be left as gunked up as I found it. I reckon 1/4 of the pipe diametrr was gunk!). That also didn't fix it. Lastly I did the engine pads vacuum control valve and all piping and that also didn't fix it. Aaargh. So tonight, after reading this thread and stubbornly refusing to believe I had to replace ear engine mount also, I decided to fill up with shell vpower (usually we run the cheap stuff) and redex it. An hour later of pushing the car into redline in 2nd, 3rd and almost in 4th (got to keep to speed limits!) I couldn't get it to misbehave ! Tomorrow will be the final test with a full load. If that fails, I'm certain it is the rear engine mount, but that looks like a pain to replace. Any tips in case I need them?

Thanks for a great forum!