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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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740SE Estate - is it worth getting the head done?Views : 815 Replies : 18Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 14th, 2018, 22:35 | #11 |
Trader Volvo in my veins
Last Online: Yesterday 23:53
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Location: Anglesey
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It does sound very much like a failed HG
Head gasket is about 2 hours work on a non turbo engine provided no studs shear. The water system will need a very good flush due to both the age and the steel seal. Head gasket sets are not expensive, Fit a new cam belt while it is off (and fan belts if old) New Tstat and check teh condition of the water hoses. Never refit the cylinder head without getting it resurfaced, if it only needs the lightest of skims great but chances are it will need a reasonable cut |
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Oct 15th, 2018, 00:43 | #12 |
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Last Online: Oct 8th, 2022 22:22
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Auckland
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agree with all the above.
If you are the least bit handy, replacing the head is not a difficult job. If not, its not a long job for a competent mechanic. Definitely have the head checked for flat and skimmed if required. While its off, you'd be mad not to have the engineers reseat the valves (probably just need lapping) and adjust valve clearances. As you are in that far, it is economic madness not to replace the cambelt, idler, water pump and thermostat. It all sounds a lot, but it doesn't add significantly to the labour bill and means you can rest assured for another 27 years. |
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Oct 15th, 2018, 09:13 | #13 |
Trader Volvo in my veins
Last Online: Yesterday 23:53
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Water pump wise stay clear of the cheap pumps out there and stay clear of teh volvo dealer for water pumps as they are now putting cheap crap in a volvo box. SKF still make a good pump, Hepu are hit and miss
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Oct 15th, 2018, 11:17 | #14 | |
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Last Online: Oct 26th, 2023 20:42
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Thurrock
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Quote:
I have least bit handy sort of status. I have been unwell and seriously lost confidence. I did the head on my B200F. Plain speaking from my standpoint. It was a task. There is quite a bit of things to undo and remove. Undoing the crank pulley bolt needs full personal strength or a serious breaker bar. And a locking tool unless one resorts to an impact wrench. Holding the camshaft pulley to undo the nut needs a good strap wrench....or an impact wrench...or a strategic drilled hole in the plastic backing plate so as to use a strong screwdriver through the pulley spokes and through the hole to exert force against the top of the engine head. Undoing the head bolts can be TOUGH if for example they have been in situ a long time and maybe a bit corroded in situ. The head is heavy to lift and replace unless one has full strength. Re tightening the head bolts and the crank pulley bolt is a torque PLUS degrees. Plus degrees on the crank pulley bolt is a lot of strength. A full physical strength or a power breaker bar is needed. David tells me an impact wrench will do up to torque, but maybe not do the added degrees? Plenty of people seem to fudge or not worry about the degrees at least re the crank pulley but I would worry too much to do that. If like me you learnt on pushrod engines. Then at every turn you will find new wrinkles. My mantra was, I have a track record of making things work, I will achieve this. And I did !!! It can be done. I did it. But. If one is "least bit handy", do expect a learning curve. This is not a Morris Minor. EDIT: P.S. If you do the job. Suction out any water you can from the holes the head bolts go in to. Get a tap from an engineer's supplier. Clean out the threads that the head bolts go in to. Lubricate the cleaned up threads..I used engine oil. And. Use new bolts. They are stretch bolts use once. A local car engineer workshop might give you a good price for the head gasket set and the head bolts. P.P.S. This post was a mess. I have tried to cut out the repetition. . . Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Oct 15th, 2018 at 11:41. |
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Oct 15th, 2018, 11:49 | #15 |
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Last Online: Oct 26th, 2023 20:42
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P.P. P.S. One of the nuts holding the inlet manifold is an absolute PIG to get at to re-fit. (Removal is easy.) I used a swivel head ratchet spanner and .... endless patience ....
And. PlusGas the exhaust manifold nuts and studs several times before doing the job ... I told you, there are wrinkles .... . |
Oct 15th, 2018, 15:28 | #16 |
New Member
Last Online: Oct 15th, 2018 15:44
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Twickenham
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Thanks
Well, phew! Thanks guys for your constructive comments. The bodywork is really good aside from a couple of minor dings in the front offside wing. The nearside wing is losing its colour a bit though on the top. Maybe excessive polishing in earlier years.
My challenge now is to find someone to do the job. Any recommendations please? |
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Oct 15th, 2018, 15:36 | #17 | |
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P.S. I have asked Nick to join this thread. We 240 persons from upstairs have to try to help down here among the 700/900 .... . Last edited by Stephen Edwin; Oct 15th, 2018 at 15:50. |
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Oct 15th, 2018, 16:24 | #18 |
newish member
Last Online: Nov 7th, 2020 23:35
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: London
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Hi folks
I can certainly recommend my new found Volvo peeps. Try: Glenn at GB Autos in Worcester Park. Good work, reasonable rates, Volvo only 020 8330 6090 Good luck |
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Oct 15th, 2018, 16:39 | #19 | |
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Nick tells me the river flows around bends ... well yes .... and Teddington is not sarf of the river .... Well that's a bonus Nich has suffered a saga of good but not quite good enough garages. I get the clear impression in emails that he has followed a recommendation and found a good Volvo indi. . |
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