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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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Clutch pedal not returningViews : 1923 Replies : 8Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 17th, 2020, 18:48 | #1 |
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Clutch pedal not returning
Recently acquired project V70 D5. Seemed to drive fine on journey home until I stopped at a set of lights. As the lights changed I tried to engage 1st and it wasn't happy, like the clutch wasn't fully disengaged. It wasn't as it turns out as once i had managed to get first the car was creeping forward with clutch pedal still fully depressed.
Had to pull clutch pedal up by hand then car behaved normally although I was careful not to hold the pedal down for any longer than absolutely necessary as I know that I'm losing hydraulic pressure somewhere. I'm really hoping that it's an internal leak in the master cylinder rather than the concentric slave. Although this car was bought as a minor project to amuse myself I definitely hadn't planned on pulling the box out. Thoughts/advice appreciated George |
Sep 19th, 2020, 22:16 | #2 |
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I drive an auto. That should inspire confidence...
But I've been battling a problem with a Hyundai clutch. It is a fairly simple system: it is a pull type clutch, so there is a part that pulls really hard against the springs of the pressure plate. Once you apply enough pressure (actually pulling force), the clutch is disengaged (or engaged? semantics) so the turning flywheel is no longer in contact with the gearbox. These springs from the pressure plate cause the pedal to return to the upright position via the hydraulic pressure. Unless I open the bleedingscrew on the secondary cylinder, then the pedal stays down. So if the Volvo system is similar to this, I would check 3 parts: First the fluid level: the Hyundai has a combined brake and clutch brake-fluid container. The inlet of the clutch is much higher up (so the clutch stops working long before the brake does when you start loosing fluid). But what we found is that it starts sucking in air when the fluid level is 1cm ABOVE the inlet. I would have to cut it open to figure out why, but I think it has to do with the maze-like structure inside the container (to prevent slushing around???). Second is the bleeder screw. Is it tightened correctly? Or any leaks (fluid) anywhere in the system? Third is the main cylinder: Once we had it out and free of fluid, I could feel it putting pressure on the output, not on the fluid input. This was when I pushed IN the cylinder. When I pulled it out, it would suck in air through the inlet. There is a valve in the inlet that closes when the cylinder builds up pressure and opens (to let in fresh fluid) when it releases pressure. Keeping both inlet and outlet sealed off with your fingers, you can check if that valve works correctly. It could still leak a little, but I think you would likely notice a big leak. Hope this helps. I'm a noob in clutches, but I hope my new found understanding, however little, may be of use to you.
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Ex police Jan '04 V70 D5 AWD geartronic, and I've got the antenna-holes to prove it. Last edited by R-P; Sep 19th, 2020 at 22:19. |
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Sep 20th, 2020, 00:03 | #3 |
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Slave cylinders are a known weak point on the s60/v70, there is a little drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing, check there to see if you have fluid dripping out.
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V40 1.9D 2004 620 miles to the tankful. 235000 miles on clock. Now sold, S60 D5 2004. I vape therefore I am. |
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Sep 20th, 2020, 09:00 | #4 |
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My S80 (2005) has a similar issue. I will keep you up to date as I check things out. It's in for MOT at the moment and garage are having a look over it.
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Sep 20th, 2020, 14:55 | #5 | |
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Quote:
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Sep 29th, 2020, 22:41 | #6 |
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Last Online: Jun 11th, 2023 22:45
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Have checked for leaks and found none. I intentionally pumped the clutch pedal for a while to see if the level in the reservoir dropped at all and it didn't.
If the pedal is pressed and immediately fully released all is well. The problem only arises when the pedal is held fully or partially down for any length of time. For example my garage is very small and has stuff all along one side so I have to reverse in at an angle and park the car tight to the other wall. As I was doing this today the biting point was getting closer and closer to the floor until i had to knock it out of gear and hook the pedal back up with my foot. One thing I will say though is that the fluid in the reservoir is filthy. Planning on a full flush once I've verified all bleed nipples are free. Cheers George |
Sep 30th, 2020, 00:11 | #7 |
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Non returning pedal is typical failed slave cylinder. Can you return the car at this point ?
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Sep 30th, 2020, 00:52 | #8 |
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Unfortunately not. I bought it from a private party with a DPF/EGR fault which was disclosed. They didn't disclose the clutch problem and I didn't notice it prior to the transaction.
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Nov 18th, 2023, 11:53 | #9 |
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2010 S80 Diesel.clutch pedal not fully returning.
Car covered 77k miles all ok..recently clutch pedal would not fully return but can move with foot! The actual clutch operation/selecting gear is fine and can drive car ok. Garage says needs a complete clutch replacement especially slave cylinder..3 days/6 hours work at £???? !! Any ideas, please and thanks. Mike V.
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