D5244T Engine removal xc90

[Bagnall]

Hello

I have a 54 XC90. Engine D5244T

With a few necessary repairs required, it’s been decided it’ll make sense to hire a hoist and remove the engine.

How easy has it been for those who have done it before? Any tips or things you wish you knew beforehand?

Once out. I’m going to do the cambelt, auxiliary belt, rear engine vacuum mount, turbo refurb, core plug, both crankshaft seals, oil pump seals and gasket. Anything else worth doing once removed? It’s done 240k.

Thanks in advance

[Tannaton]

It's relatively easy as there is a lot of space around it, and a Volvo thoroughbred P2 design - it's been made easy by the manufacturer. Far easier than some later models with 5 cylinder engines shoehorned into platforms not designed for them.

Tip - I'd say it was a toss of the coin whether it's easier to lift the engine out from above or drop the entire subframe with gearbox etc. The latter is more difficult though if you don't have access to a 2-post ramp.

It's doing jobs like this where you really appreciate the build quality of the Volvo, you will find that 99% if not all of the clips, bolts, brackets etc. can be re-used and won't fall apart when you disassemble them.

[T689]

Originally Posted by Bagnall

Hello

I have a 54 XC90. Engine D5244T

With a few necessary repairs required, it’s been decided it’ll make sense to hire a hoist and remove the engine.

How easy has it been for those who have done it before? Any tips or things you wish you knew beforehand?

Once out. I’m going to do the cambelt, auxiliary belt, rear engine vacuum mount, turbo refurb, core plug, both crankshaft seals, oil pump seals and gasket. Anything else worth doing once removed? It’s done 240k.

Thanks in advance

How did you get on?
Everything go okay?
Did you remove the engine or box in the end, or both?!

[Bagnall]

Sorry for the slow response.

The repair was a success.

I bought a second hand engine hoist and lifted the engine and left the gearbox in situ.

I tried to gain access to the bell housing bolts without removing the angle gear. Big mistake. I wasted a day trying to take that short cut. If anyone is reading this, and considering doing something similar. Don’t waste your time. Remove the driveshaft and drop the angle gear. It makes the engine removal so much easier.

I took my time over a week and did a multitude of repairs whilst I could access everything. The core plug was the reason for the engine removal, but I took the opportunity to do the cambelt, turbo refurb, replace engine mounts, oil cooler gasket, crankshaft seals, water pump, aux belt, oil pressure sensor etc

It’s been running sweet ever since.

The only downside is I seem to have developed a really small oil leak around the turbo/angle gear area, so small it’s hard to determine where it is coming from. I don’t feel it’s anything to worry about with a car this age, but it’s frustrating after replacing the crankshaft seals and core plug and eliminating all oil leaks on the car. It was dry for a week or so.

It’s going for an MOT next month, and I will ask the garage to investigate whilst it’s on the ramp - as I’m not 100% certain if it’s the turbo or angle gear. If it’s the turbo it’ll be a pain to remove again, but it’s under warranty for 2 years after the refurb.

[maxiz1]

Originally Posted by Bagnall

Sorry for the slow response.

The repair was a success.

I bought a second hand engine hoist and lifted the engine and left the gearbox in situ.

I tried to gain access to the bell housing bolts without removing the angle gear. Big mistake. I wasted a day trying to take that short cut. If anyone is reading this, and considering doing something similar. Don’t waste your time. Remove the driveshaft and drop the angle gear. It makes the engine removal so much easier.

I took my time over a week and did a multitude of repairs whilst I could access everything. The core plug was the reason for the engine removal, but I took the opportunity to do the cambelt, turbo refurb, replace engine mounts, oil cooler gasket, crankshaft seals, water pump, aux belt, oil pressure sensor etc

It’s been running sweet ever since.

The only downside is I seem to have developed a really small oil leak around the turbo/angle gear area, so small it’s hard to determine where it is coming from. I don’t feel it’s anything to worry about with a car this age, but it’s frustrating after replacing the crankshaft seals and core plug and eliminating all oil leaks on the car. It was dry for a week or so.

It’s going for an MOT next month, and I will ask the garage to investigate whilst it’s on the ramp - as I’m not 100% certain if it’s the turbo or angle gear. If it’s the turbo it’ll be a pain to remove again, but it’s under warranty for 2 years after the refurb.

How did you manage to separate the gearbox and the engine in situ? Do you have enough side clearance? Does it involve dropping a bit of the subframe?

[Bagnall]

From memory, I removed the drive shaft and angle gear.

Then you can then access the bell housing bolts. Tricky and you’ll need various ratchets and extensions, but it’s possible.

The engine will then slide sway from the gearbox and torque converter. The gearbox remained in situ and I lifted the engine out.

I had my father help me who used to be a mechanic, so I’d recommend having some knowledge and experience on hand before proceeding!

[Tannaton]

Originally Posted by Bagnall

From memory, I removed the drive shaft and angle gear.

Then you can then access the bell housing bolts. Tricky and you’ll need various ratchets and extensions, but it’s possible.

The engine will then slide sway from the gearbox and torque converter. The gearbox remained in situ and I lifted the engine out.

I had my father help me who used to be a mechanic, so I’d recommend having some knowledge and experience on hand before proceeding!

Tricky but doable - you need a multitude of extensions and wobble bars.

With the angle drive removed you can then access remaining bell housing bolts and the hole through which you loosen the TC mounting bolts.

[Simmy]

crank shaft seals are notoriously tricky as there is more than one type. and its easy to loose the seal lip if you dont use the seal insertion tool . did you have the tool or did you manage it without. many have failed and ended up buying several seals. was your core plug out spun or just leaking? well done with a big repair like that .