B200E oxygen sensor

[Offgrid]

I'm having another go at fixing the high idle speed and high relay temperature. All the diagnostics and info seem to indicate that I have a faulty oxygen sensor. So I bought one specifically for a 1990 estate with a B200E engine. However, I can't find it on the car. I don't have a cat ( no jokes about the car being a dog please ), and there are no sensors on the exhaust manifold or pipe. In fact there are no wires in that area at all. I've looked on the saloon ( B230E ) and that doesn't seem to have one either.

Can I assume that neither car has an oxygen sensor, or is it located somewhere else. I have searched the forum, and all answers seem to indicate it should be in the manifold.

[360beast]

Originally Posted by Offgrid

I'm having another go at fixing the high idle speed and high relay temperature. All the diagnostics and info seem to indicate that I have a faulty oxygen sensor. So I bought one specifically for a 1990 estate with a B200E engine. However, I can't find it on the car. I don't have a cat ( no jokes about the car being a dog please ), and there are no sensors on the exhaust manifold or pipe. In fact there are no wires in that area at all. I've looked on the saloon ( B230E ) and that doesn't seem to have one either.

Can I assume that neither car has an oxygen sensor, or is it located somewhere else. I have searched the forum, and all answers seem to indicate it should be in the manifold.

A B200E is K jet right? If so then it won't have a lambda sensor.

Non turbos have them in the cat and turbos just after the turbo in the downpipe.

[Offgrid]

Thanks Mr Beast. It looks as if I'll have to go back to basics then.
I've swopped the battery for another known good one, and, of course, I've run the car with two different working fuel pump relays. I plan to go over all the earth connections to try to resolve the battery issue. (12.8v in the battery, and 14.7v from the alternator).

I guess the answer is to list all the sensors, and check them on by one. Maybe look at the fuses as well. Plugs and leads are pretty new, but i'll do the night-in-the-woods test to see if I can see any coronas.

[Chris1Roll]

You don't have any sensors to check! None that would be causing a 1500rpm high idle anyway.

You have a cam position sensor on the distributor, and a knock sensor bolted between cylinders 2+3 on the intake side of the engine. These control the ignition timing

All the fuel injection is mechanical, with some bimetallic strips controlling cold start and warm-up.

Is it idling high all the time - i.e. both cold and hot?
In which case the basic fix is to wind this black knurled knob in to decrease the amount of air bypassing the throttle plate and thus reduce the idle. aim for just under 1k (spec is 900, but I always found they idle smoother a tiny bit higher)



That's assuming someone hasn't wound the throttle cable so tight it holds the throttle constantly open or something else silly.

You can safely ignore most of what any americans (and thus the FAQ) tell you about your particular engine - they did not have K-jet engined 740's.
I've seen them on facebook confidently telling someone in the UK with a Kjet engine to change their MAF , and not to bother with the cambelt as they are non interference

[classicswede]

Still reading too much American sites and relying on ebay fitment. Regardless of engine be it an E like yours or an F that does use a lambda sensor its not not a cause of high idle.

High idle is too much air

Basics of K jet. Number one reason for is air leaking past the injectors. Replace all 8 injector seals. Must use K jetronic seals not seals for F engines.
The check inlet manifold gasket for leaks and replace gasket if needed. After that check all pipes etc for leaks.

Only once you have done all that you can adjust the idle speed on the thumb screw and if needed adjust the mixture. DO NOT ADJUST THE MIXTURE BEFORE FIXING ALL AIR LEAKS AND HAVING IGNITION SYSTEM WORKING PERFECTLY!!!

[Chris1Roll]

This is your lot 'electronically' for the injection system, not much to it:



And the ignition system. Bear in mind the 118K is the same as on the 'B230K' engine so you need to disregard anything fitted to those, e.g. you dont have a hot spot relay, nor do you have a temp sensor (the temp sensor you have is just for the guage):



Urgh, they've come out sideways. Just tilt your head!

[Offgrid]

Thanks for the helpful posts, and I'll have a go at checking the suggested items a bit later. I'm in Asda at the moment drinking a black coffee after discovering that I didn't have any numbers in the Euro Millions lottery yesterday.

Don't worry about the pics. I've got Gimp on this computer, so I'll download them, and flip them round.

I looked at the saloon yesterday, and there are mushrooms growing in the back. Anything that I own, and that doesn't move for a few days, tends to be turned into a shed. I think I need therapy, or maybe a good woman.

[Offgrid]

I haven't had a chance to check the relays and contacts, and the high tickover was getting on my nerves. I've adjusted the air wheel, and dropped the tickover to about 950. The car seems to run OK, but I sense that it is not at its optimum settings. I accept that my adjustment was akin to the national heath service method of allopathic treatment, and I need to find the root cause of the problem, but it seemed worth it as a quick improvement until I can spend some time. It took about 1.5 turns of the wheel, and that seems a lot for a sudden requirement to adjust. I've mislaid my multimeter, so it is a bit harder to test the relays.