Wheels/Tyres: V70 Front Wheel bearing

[Luxobarge]

Car is 1997 V70 T5, same wheel bearing arrangement as the 850.

Front right wheel bearing has been moaning for a while, recently did a long-ish trip and it's now quite a bit louder, so time to change the bearing.

I've watched RobertDIY's video on the subject, which as usual is quite helpful. However, anybody got any more hints and tips? Anybody who's done this job before - how easy was it, anything to watch out for?

Anybody know what size socket I'll need for those star bolts that hold the bearing on? What torque should they be done up to? Also, anybody know the torque for the main centre axle nut?

Are all the bearings the same or are there different part numbers for different cars?

While I'm in there I also want to change the ABS ring as it's a bit crusty - any tips for doing this?

Anything else that's helpful please let me know

Cheers all.

[DaveNP]

As I recall I subbed the wheel bearing on the V70 out to my trusted garage as I couldn't get the driveshaft nut undone, he then struggled as there were three options of bearing fitment and what was on the car didn't agree with the 'book'. I think the driveshaft/suspension had been replaced in the past after an accident and there were permutations of splines on the shaft and nut or bolt on the end of the shaft, so possibly worth a very careful check of what you actually have and what you need to replace it.
Some years later I went back and had to replace a CV boot and in fixing that broke enough rust off of the ABS ring that it no longer worked, replacing it was fairly straightforward, cut the old one off with a dremel or such, check the area is clean, heat the new one up in a hot oven or over the hob then slip it on the end of the driveshaft, if necessary it can be drifted on a bit with a soft punch although be careful not to push it on too far. But then as I recall by the time I'd done all of that faffing about a new CV joint with new boots and a new ABS ring wasn't that much more expensive and would have been less work, might be worth thinking about.

[Dippydog]

As said above there were[as far as I know]two different types fitted the early type had a centre nut while the later type had a centre bolt so check which type you have before ordering,this might need the wheel removed to see which.The job is pretty straighforward and easy[I've done one on my V70 and both on step daughters C70.According to Haynes Driveshaft nut 120nm/89lbft then angle tighten 60 degrees. Driveshaft bolt 35nm/26lbft then angle tighten 90 degrees*
Hub carrier to steering knuckle 20nm/15lbft then 45nm/33lbft then angle tighten 60 degrees.**
Control arm balljoint clamp bolt nut 50nm/37lbft.
* depending on which type you have.
** both types of bearing.
You might be able to undo the centre nut/bolt with an assistant standing on the brake pedal but if not refit the wheel[if alloys knock out the centre cap first]and let the car stand on all four wheels plus assistant standing on brake pedal.As a1997 car it should have the centre nut version but do check this first.

[Luxobarge]

Thanks Dippydog, appreciated.

Yes, it's the earlier centre nut type, I've already checked. Yes, RobertDIY's video recommends pinging out the wheel centre cap and loosening that nut while the wheel is still attached and on the ground. Hopefully I won't need an assistant to press the brake, as mine's an auto and with it in "Park" and also with the handbrake on surely it won't move....

Anybody know what size that axle nut is? Might as well check I've got a decent socket of the right size before I start eh!

Cheers all.

[Baffler]

Originally Posted by Luxobarge

Anybody know what size that axle nut is? Might as well check I've got a decent socket of the right size before I start eh!

36mm, if I'm not mistaken, but 32mm rings a bell too, the later being aftermarket.

[4x4]

My 850 hub nut is 36mm

[downstream]

Originally Posted by Luxobarge

Hopefully I won't need an assistant to press the brake, as mine's an auto and with it in "Park" and also with the handbrake on surely it won't move....

Anybody know what size that axle nut is?

You will need a 36mm socket, as well as a sturdy breaker bar, and a length of steel pipe to slide over the breaker bar to increase leverage.

Also, if it's never been removed before, you may find the driveshaft is basically glued into the hub, and won't shift easily... I couldn't remove mine even with some good whacks of a mallet, I had to buy a hub puller tool and press it out.

If you don't have an assistant, put a chisel or similar into one of the brake disk vents, so that it jams up against the caliper carrier and prevents the wheel from rotating. I don't know how strong the 'park' mechanism is inside the gearbox, wouldn't want to break it!

[Martin Cox]

Pretty sure it will be a 36 mm nut on the driveshaft. It is on my 1998 V70.

I fitted the spacesaver spare wheel when loosening the driveshaft nuts and my wife obliged on the brake pedal. The advantage of using the brake pedal is that you are applying the counterholding force much closer to the nut rather than through two CV joints and various gearbox internals. I fancy brake parts are more robust than the parking pawl in the transmission to say nothing of being easier and cheaper to fix if things go awry.

If the driveshafts haven't been off before they can be absolute pigs to shift from the hubs because the splines were glued to the hubs. Fortunately mine had been off already when new CV boots were fitted and the local volvo dealer helpfully didn't glue them back again.

Once you've got the thing apart fitting new reluctor rings is pretty straightforward. I found you don't need to remove the sensor; it can remain in place. My old reluctor rings virtually fell off with very little persuasion. The replacement rings easily tapped into place after cleaning up the mating surface thoroughly. If not, they can be heated if necessary.

I can't comment on replacing the bearing since it's not something I've done myself.

Martin

[Luxobarge]

Thanks all. Yes, I was aware of the possibility that the axle will be glued into the bearing splines, only way to find out is to try it eh? I do have a hub puller, so can use that if necessary.

Point taken about using the brake, I might wait until my wife is around to help with that bit. Yes, I have a decent breaker bar plus lengths of tube etc. so all set for that. Sounds like that nut is done up "FT" as they say....

Cheers all

[Luxobarge]

OK, so I had a couple of hours today and so I started the wheel bearing job. I'm a slow methodical worker, so it'll take me quite a bit longer to complete, but slow and steady is fine for me!

First off, the big 36mm hub nut. I did need to add a lenght of scaffold pole to my breaker bar, but it moved OK with this, and no problem keeping the car from rolling with just the handbrake, so that's fine.

Caliper bracket bolts were VERY tight, but again came out Ok with the trusty breaker bar.

I wanted to detach the strut bottom by dropping the A-shaped control arm from the ball joint end, and the pinch bolt that clamps the steering knuckle was a real s*d to undo, as the exposed ends of the thread had gone quite rusty, but out it came in the end with only a small amount of swearing.

Although I haven't dropped the control arm yet I wanted to see if the axle will move OK in the bearing splines, or is it "glued" in - so I put my puller on it and tightened it up, gave it a smart smack with a hammer and it moved. Tighten and hit a couple more times and it's now winding out quite nicely, so I'm sure it's not glued, it'll come out easily now when I've dropped the control arm. I have a suspicion someone's been in there before, probably for CV joint rubber boots, as they seem in pretty decent condition.

That's as far as I got today, next is to drop the control arm, I hope the ball joint comes out of the clamp OK, it should do as I've replaced the control arms myself a few years ago.

Then it will be undoing the four star bolts that hold the bearing in. These look pretty rusty so I'm hoping they'll come out OK, we'll see. I have the correct star driver and new bolts to go back in.

Will update with further progress, but good news so far.....

Cheers all.