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WANTED - D24TIC Cylinder Head or Complete Engine

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Old Sep 16th, 2008, 21:44   #1
Laney760
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Default WANTED - D24TIC Cylinder Head or Complete Engine

Either in good working order please, let me know if you have either for sale, many thanks
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Old Sep 16th, 2008, 22:24   #2
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Default cylinder head

I happen to have a cylinder head which comes from a 740 which blew its' gasket. There do not appear to be any cracks in it. I was keeping it as a reserve in case my fiddling about went wrong, but you are welcome to it if you want for 50 notes.

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Old Sep 16th, 2008, 22:38   #3
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there you go laneystrider also i can vouch if its from jor it will be good and at £50 you cant go wrong
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Old Sep 17th, 2008, 04:01   #4
Peter Milnes
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Only problem is if your car is post '93 (Model Year). The 740 head has ordinary tappets which need checking for clearance every 20,000 miles. Your head should be (but not necessarily) the later one with hydraulic tappets and cambelt tensioner which is a vast improvement. If your head is the earlier one Jor's should be fine.

All the best, Peter.
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Old Sep 18th, 2008, 14:28   #5
Laney760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Milnes View Post
Only problem is if your car is post '93 (Model Year). The 740 head has ordinary tappets which need checking for clearance every 20,000 miles. Your head should be (but not necessarily) the later one with hydraulic tappets and cambelt tensioner which is a vast improvement. If your head is the earlier one Jor's should be fine.

All the best, Peter.
Have only just found these messages! Mine is 1992 so should be ok? Just phoning the garage to see how much to fit head on top of £700 quoted to fit gasket and cam belt
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Old Sep 18th, 2008, 14:31   #6
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The garage wanted 700 to fit head gasket and cam belt

To fit cylinder head and gasket and cam belt is £750!!!


About to pm Jor and arrange to buy!!

Thank you all!!
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Old Sep 18th, 2008, 14:36   #7
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Ooh, just remembered, sure I have got cambelt pretensioner. Should I put this cylinder head on it? How easy a job would it be for me to do tappets every 20 thou? (when I replace all my missing tools that men have borrowed off me and not returned, lol)
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Old Sep 18th, 2008, 15:38   #8
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Volvos have just confirmed by my registration number and engine number that I DO HAVE THE EARLIER ONE WITH SHIMS! Jor, you are a star. About to pm you about collecting from Wembley. No wonder I am sure I can hear tappets in my car, didn't think I had the ones that required maintenance so wasn't sure I was hearing right, I'll bet they havent been done in eons
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Old Sep 19th, 2008, 16:28   #9
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Default Cylinder head

This is the head in question Laney. It does have the bucket and shim arrangement so would be the correct one for your car - providing of course that your engine needs one. As Peter points out it is difficult to see how someone can correctly diagnose a cracked head based on the amount of smoke produced. I've not read much about cracks in the head, but have seen a few reports about ones in the block, depth of same being important as regards continuing function.
Despite Craig's endorsement above (!) a note of caution must be added. The engine came from a chap who designed potato planting machines and had a mini fleet of 740's. This engine I was assured had had the head refurbished and was about to go into one of the cars, which suffered a major prang before the planned transplant. Bit miffed then to find out after lugging it from north lincolnshire to hear a pistol shot noise on turning over the engine by hand - the intake valve on no.1 cylinder was sticking. So should this head be fitted this would require checking out.
As you can see from the photos the head otherwise looks ok, a non volvo/vw gasket had been used and you can see the remains of the composite material round the edges, as well as the black area on no.1 where the gasket has blown thereby leaving a connection to the coolant passageway. The smaller valve is the exhaust, the larger the air intake. The third circular area is the exit from the pre-chamber, the entrances to same being occupied by the injector and glow plug. Probably the best thing to do is to get the garage to do the inspection first to see exactly what is required, before embarking on a possibly pointless journey.
The tools needed to check the valve clearance can be got from germany if you cannot get hold of them here and the procedure does not appear to be that difficult i.e. it's something I would be reasonably happy to try myself.
Incidentally, one of the ways to increase power output is to optimize the compression ratio. This is done by measuring the height of the pistons at TDC and then using either the 3 part gasket, or reducing it to 2 or1 layer as per the instructions in the manual.
jor
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Last edited by jor; Sep 19th, 2008 at 16:52.
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Old Sep 19th, 2008, 17:28   #10
Laney760
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Hi Jor

You guys are being very helpful and patient, thank you so much, this is a great forum

I was assuming the ch would not have the valves as well so surprised to see these, the ones I had been sourcing online new or reconditioned came without valves

What they actually said is that when they strip it down to put the hg on they are convinced they will find that the ch has a crack/cracks. They said that they did not want to undo the head bolts to confirm a diagnosis as this could worsen a possible crack. Are you saying I should tell them to go ahead with the hg and then if I need the ch to buy it from you? It will be some time before I have the £750 for anyway but December latest

My gut feeling tells me she will need a ch as well as hg because the car has had a new radiator. The engine probably overheated when the old rad gave out and this would surely have done damage to the aluminium head? The seller told me the lovely bright green water was due to a recent service (liar!, when I changed my air filter, it looked as if it had been in the Sahara for about 10 years!) but from day 1 my lovely bright green coolant levels dropped, he MUST have known the engine had a big problem. Had my test drive not been on totally flat ground up in the Fens I would have not been happy with it's performance up hills and known it had low compression (I would have assumed worn rings, etc.. with my limited knowledge and not bought it). I don't know how some people sleep nights!

I don't suppose you'd fancy (no worries if not) asking your recommended mechanic in Wembley what he would charge to fit a new hg and cam belt and dependent on what he finds possibly also fitting your ch or private messaging me his details? I am finding on the forum that a lot of people disagree with various garages I use, nothing wrong with this, I would rather be 'put straight'. If you need my symptoms they are quite high coolant usage clearly as steam from the exhaust, the higher the revs the more steam, not very good compression, cooling system pressurises immediately after starting and pipes are rock hard (the garage tried telling me this engine is normal to be like this with these rock hard pipes but I'm not so sure?), bubbling in my coolant, my coolant now looks very very slightly contaminated with some little black bits, but thank goodness no water in my oil, I am just about to take off the oil filler cap and check inside it for nasty signs. I have read that my symptoms are of hg gone between cylinder and water jacket, I'd be dead happy if it were just the hg!
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