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1989 740 GLE Injection type?

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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 15:14   #1
Choc
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Default 1989 740 GLE Injection type?

Since getting my 1989 740 GLE last week, I’ve been reading up on the Volvo maintenance hints that’s linked from here.

It looks like a really useful resource, and I’ve used the VIN decoder so I know it’s got a B230E engine (there's red paint on the block, under the grime and cobwebs). But do I have Bosch LH 2.2 or 2.4 injection? And does it matter? The car is running well but I’d like to do a basic service to make sure it’s as healthy as it can be.

I plan to get a set of spare injectors then send them off for cleaning, is there a part number I need to look for on ebay, or are they the same as on another car?

Have a pic, for your trouble
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 16:31   #2
'88740GL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choc View Post
Since getting my 1989 740 GLE last week, I’ve been reading up on the Volvo maintenance hints that’s linked from here.

It looks like a really useful resource, and I’ve used the VIN decoder so I know it’s got a B230E engine (there's red paint on the block, under the grime and cobwebs). But do I have Bosch LH 2.2 or 2.4 injection? And does it matter? The car is running well but I’d like to do a basic service to make sure it’s as healthy as it can be.

I plan to get a set of spare injectors then send them off for cleaning, is there a part number I need to look for on ebay, or are they the same as on another car?

Have a pic, for your trouble

Well done on your find, how much did you pay? I don't know how much maintenenace you have done, but unless you haven't already, check your front wheel arches down where the mud guards are, but further in, check for soft metal, rust holes , these areas are prone to rust, and peel your footwell carpets up in the front to check for any dampness, and any rust patches around that area, and the weld seams here too,

Depends on how it has been looked after, mine is an ultralow mileage unloved volvo, more pictures please!
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 17:02   #3
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Originally Posted by '88740GL View Post
Well done on your find, how much did you pay? I don't know how much maintenenace you have done, but unless you haven't already, check your front wheel arches down where the mud guards are, but further in, check for soft metal, rust holes , these areas are prone to rust, and peel your footwell carpets up in the front to check for any dampness, and any rust patches around that area, and the weld seams here too
It was £400 with 164,000 miles, and service history up to 150,000. There’s no damp inside the car at all so I’m pretty comfortable there’s no rust, it really needs a good clean though!

The only maintenance I’ve done so far is to tighten the battery clamp, unblock the washer jets and replace a sidelight bulb. I was thinking of writing to Volvo and complaining about the shoddy workmanship to be honest...
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 17:04   #4
'88740GL
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Whats the mileage on your car, injectors generally aren't a bother, however the seals on them can perish and let air past them an cause an odd idle and fuel consumption issues, injectors aren't cheap though, i've seen them for £47 each!

Maintenance for this machine, i would treat as if the history is unknown, so i'd check your brake pads, condition of underbody and wheel arches, as per mentioned, i would change coolant and charge with 50/50 mix of clean water and volvo coolant, or one suited for an aluminium block,

Change oil and oil filter, semi synthetic 15W/40 is a good all year round oil,
Air filter and spark plugs, (bosch super 4's) check ignition wires for cracks or wear, distributor cap,

Check flame trap, (crankcase ventilation system) its a small wire mesh that bungs up full of sooty crud and can cause overpressurisation on the crankcase, in turn pushing oil out between gaskets all over the place,

Clean throttle body and lubricate the throttle cable and its rotating drum,

Lubricate locks and keyholes, and bonnet joints, check the drains in the bottoms of doors are clear of rubbish, and the rain water channels are clear from leaves and debris etc.

I'd wash and wax her also even though she does look clean

I don't think it matters about the injection system size, and probably will be the 2.3 LH one..

See how you get on!
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 17:05   #5
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The B230E had either K-Jet or LH2.2.
LH2.4 was only fitted to the F/FT/FK variants.
A pic of the engine bay would be useful.
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 17:34   #6
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Thanks, chaps!

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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 17:57   #7
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Thanks, chaps!

Hi again, i can confirm that is a K-Jet mechanical injection system, pretty simple and straightforward to work on, though since everything is mechanical, they say k-jet can act a bit odd sometimes even when everything is all in order..

Clean that throttle body and air plate inside the large rubber bellow, it can get dirty with crankcase blowby oil, and will sometimes cause juddery cruise speeds

Change you cambelt if there are no signs of it being changed, also if check around the water pump the seals can sometimes leak, but i would change the water pump and all of the belts if you're going to have the timing belt done..
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 19:11   #8
creeky740
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Hi all,

For those with the K-jetronic this site is a wealth of tips;

http://www.diagnostic-assistance.co.uk/mech_inj.htm

It's probably already been posted a few times here already!

Thanks

Jim
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Old Nov 11th, 2010, 22:25   #9
Choc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '88740GL View Post
injectors generally aren't a bother, however the seals on them can perish and let air past them an cause an odd idle and fuel consumption issues, injectors aren't cheap though, i've seen them for £47 each!
Not worth taking them out and getting them cleaned you think? I can't really take the car off the road so I'd prefer to get a second hand set, send them off to be cleaned then refit them with new seals. There's someone on this site that seems to do a good job with ultrasonic cleaning and checking the spray patterns, but it's a few days to post, fix and post back.
Quote:
Originally Posted by '88740GL View Post
Maintenance for this machine, i would treat as if the history is unknown, so i'd check your brake pads, condition of underbody and wheel arches, as per mentioned, i would change coolant and charge with 50/50 mix of clean water and volvo coolant, or one suited for an aluminium block,

Change oil and oil filter, semi synthetic 15W/40 is a good all year round oil,
Air filter and spark plugs, (bosch super 4's) check ignition wires for cracks or wear, distributor cap,

Check flame trap, (crankcase ventilation system) its a small wire mesh that bungs up full of sooty crud and can cause overpressurisation on the crankcase, in turn pushing oil out between gaskets all over the place,

Clean throttle body and lubricate the throttle cable and its rotating drum,

Lubricate locks and keyholes, and bonnet joints, check the drains in the bottoms of doors are clear of rubbish, and the rain water channels are clear from leaves and debris etc.
Yeah, that's my Saturday morning gone, but the afternoon will be my own!

Brakes seem ok, it pulls up square and I've done a few hard stops from speed to scrub the pads up. Coolant looks good enough to drink (if you like Austrian wine) so I might put that off for a while too. The rest is on the cards; the oil looks clean on the dipstick and there's a Volvo filter so it's a good sign I think.

Quote:
Originally Posted by '88740GL View Post
i can confirm that is a K-Jet mechanical injection system, pretty simple and straightforward to work on, though since everything is mechanical, they say k-jet can act a bit odd sometimes even when everything is all in order..

Clean that throttle body and air plate inside the large rubber bellow, it can get dirty with crankcase blowby oil, and will sometimes cause juddery cruise speeds

Change you cambelt if there are no signs of it being changed, also if check around the water pump the seals can sometimes leak, but i would change the water pump and all of the belts if you're going to have the timing belt done..
Cool, I need to dig inside the throttle body to see how grubby it is. The cambelt was changed at 140,000 so I'm ok for a while.
Quote:
Originally Posted by creeky740 View Post
Hi all,

For those with the K-jetronic this site is a wealth of tips;

http://www.diagnostic-assistance.co.uk/mech_inj.htm

It's probably already been posted a few times here already!

Thanks

Jim
That's great, thanks everyone!
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