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Engine won't start after EGR works

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Old Jan 26th, 2015, 13:04   #1
TurboDiesel2006
V70 D5 185 Owner
 

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Default Engine won't start after EGR works

Volvo V70 D5 185bhp, 2006 model, manual, D5244T4 Engine, 140k miles

The car started dropping into limp mode on a regular basis so I needed to get it sorted. Investigations showed that limp mode was activated for a multitude of reasons and investigation was not easy (it did this once before at about 60k and I ended up with a bill for £1400 from the main dealer and no clear explanation of the problem). First job was to replace the fuel filter with a new Volvo item but this made no difference. After looking at the various entries on the Forum I established that the turbo intercooler pipes were very soft, the EGR valve was caked in sooty deposits as were the intake pipe and manifold. I wasn't sure that these were the problem but decided they needed fixing and that would give me a clean sheet if I needed to do more.

I disconnected the battery, removed the air cleaner assembly, ECM, air inlet pipes, intercooler inlet and outlet pipes, throttle body, EGR to intake manifold pipe (very clogged up with soot). As the intake manifold was similarly coated with soot I reasoned that to do the job properly this should be removed and cleaned as well. So the injectors were removed together with the fuel inlet pipes and return pipes. The common rail outlets were sealed to prevent any ingress of dirt. The intake manifold was removed and thoroughly cleaned. I also cleaned the swirl valve assembly as this too was covered in soot.

As the intercooler pipes were very soft I decided to upgrade these and the turbo outlet pipe (resonator) to do88.se items. I thoroughly cleaned the injector wells and seats and was very careful handling the injectors and replaced them in the same cylinders with new copper washers, clamps and screws (all Volvo) although I have re-used the common rail to Injector pipes.

I also changed the oil filter, oil, coolant and air filter as it was stripped down and easy to do. Whilst the engine bay was relatively empty I checked the front engine mount with my Mityvac to ensure it could hold a vacuum and it was good. I also checked all the vacuum hoses.

During the process I photographed the layout and locations of pipes and connectors and labelled parts to make sure I put the right bits back in the right place. The myriad of electrical connectors are all different so it is difficult to connect them up incorrectly. Having cleaned everything I then put it all back together. I re-connected the freshly charged battery, switched on the ignition and left it for a couple of minutes to go through pre-flight checks, then turned it over. But it didn't start. I have tried again and again but it won't start, not a murmur. This car has always started on the button.

The battery is fully charged and the engine turns over easily. There is no air bleed facility for the fuel lines on this D5244T4 engine. I can't detect any fuel leaks - I wrapped kitchen towel around the injector pipe joints whilst I turned the engine over and they are dry. With the ignition on there is a very soft high pitched whine from the engine bay but I'm not sure if that is the injection pump or if I should be able too hear it or what it should sound like. I kind of think the problem is fuel related but I can't identify anything wrong.

During the re-build I acquired an iCarsoft i906 code reader so I tried plugging that in. I used the manual function to see what I could find. The code reader identifies the car correctly and then gives:
CM Engine Control Module - Fault in communication with vehicle ECU
ECM 6661 Glow relay control. Faulty signal
ECM 6663,4,5 Glow relay control
ECM 2BAA Particulate trap (I did get this message from the car just before I started work so this is not a surprise)
ECM 9140 Throttle Module faulty signal
ECM 2520/2530/2590/25A0 Fuel system

I have checked all the connectors and they seem to be in place. I have checked the two big ECM connectors and they seem to be correctly fitted with no play. The fuel tank is over 1/4 full. The car is in the workshop and the ambient temperature is about 10 deg C.

I am puzzled that the iCarsoft reader can't see the ECM and that it reports a faulty signal from the Glow relay. Is there a way I can test that the ECM is still functioning? I would have expected to car to start without the glow plugs if indeed they are not working, although I haven't touched them and it started fine before I took it all apart.

Do I need to re-set the throttle system somehow? It is fly-by-wire so I assumed it re-sets itself during pre-flight checks. The Haynes manual says nothing about re-setting it. I was careful during cleaning not to swamp the spindle holes with cleaner.

I feel like I must be missing something very simple but I can't see it. Help Please.
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Old Jan 26th, 2015, 14:39   #2
outnumbered
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Refitt the two Ecu connectors
Mike
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Old Feb 1st, 2015, 21:01   #3
TurboDiesel2006
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Default V70 D5 185 still won't start.

I have tried re-connecting the two ECM connectors but it has made no difference. The engine turns over but won't start. I have checked to make sure the connectors are seating correctly and are not loose. I have also re-done all the work up to now to make sure I haven't missed any other connections. I have done a leak back test on the injectors whilst turning the engine over on the starter. All 5 give the same amount of fuel and only a few ml is collected.

I wonder that the problem is that the ECM isn't telling the injectors when to inject fuel into the cylinders. I have checked the camshaft, crankshaft and fuel pressure connectors and they are ok. My iCarsoft code reader still can't see the ECM although it reports error codes from glow plugs (see also earlier post re glow plug codes). The D5244T4 engine doesn't have a glow plug relay so I assume this is managed by the ECM. If there is a problem with the ECM then that might explain the no starting problem. Is there any way to test the ECM? I have checked the 5A feed fuse and that is ok.?

Any thoughts anybody. I am stumped.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2015, 10:13   #4
Spike56
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I know these have fuel injection, but do they need to be primed like the old days? ie is the fuel actually reaching the injectors?
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Old Feb 2nd, 2015, 14:19   #5
TurboDiesel2006
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My understanding is that the 185 Euro4 fuel system is self priming and clears itself after a few cranks on the starter motor. That is certainly the case from when I changed the fuel filter. I think that fuel is reaching the injectors because diesel was collected during the leak back test I did whilst cranking the engine. I think the ECM/ECU isn't commanding the injectors to inject fuel but I don't know how to test that.
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Old Feb 2nd, 2015, 14:52   #6
cheshired5
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Does it start with Easy Start?
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Old Feb 5th, 2015, 12:33   #7
TurboDiesel2006
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Well there's a thing. I did not have much faith in this since as far I could see the problem lay with fuel not being injected into the cylinders. However not wanting to dismiss it out of hand I purchased a can of Easy Start, removed the air filter and sprayed Easy Start into the induction system and after several sessions on the starter she started. Wow.

I then ran the car at a fast idle (1200ish rpm) for a minute or so and then let it settle at tick over (700rpm) for 30 minutes. I then switched it off and it started ok. I then left it overnight to get properly cold and great news it started next morning, on the button. I reset the fuel. engine management codes and then checked again after a short run. The glow plug messages have now gone.

I still have the problem of the car going into limp mode but at least I know that all the induction system is clean. I will now re-do the leak back test on the injectors to see if my test using just the starter motor gave the correct result. Then back to the Forum for more information on limp mode.

I am also getting soot-filter-full. I have cleared this in the past by a quick blast up the motorway but not sure if that will work when the car is in limp mode. Any advice?
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Old Feb 5th, 2015, 22:22   #8
outnumbered
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no you won't be able to clear the soot filter if car going in limp mode, you will have to have a regen forced. starngely enough dealing with anothr member who has sooy full and limp mode.

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Old Feb 5th, 2015, 22:57   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by outnumbered View Post
starngely enough dealing with anothr member who has sooy full
Have you been breathing the soot Mike?
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Old Feb 5th, 2015, 23:54   #10
TurboDiesel2006
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So I am not alone, please Outnumbered do you have any guidance gleaned from your similar case?
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