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140/164 Series General Forum for the Volvo 140 and 164 cars |
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Rough Idle solution?Views : 10358 Replies : 39Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Aug 3rd, 2021, 20:11 | #31 |
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Mine is the standard configuration for a '72 B20A.
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Aug 3rd, 2021, 20:39 | #32 | |
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OP - could be worth swapping the hoses around so the oil filler hose goes to the air cleaner and the vac stub on the inlet goes to the oil separator (going from memory of what was on my last 140 many moons ago and the pic above)
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Aug 3rd, 2021, 21:01 | #33 | |
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I will explore placing a metal orifice disk with a smaller orifice inside the manifold nipple which may restrict the vacuum flow whilst still function to extract gasses from the crankcase. |
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Aug 3rd, 2021, 21:21 | #34 | |
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Also as others have mentioned the vacuum advance was changed about the same time, perhaps to coincide with changes to the PCV system that may have some influence. Thinking back i remember my last 144 was 1972/L registration and had the later arrangement as you have uploaded. I'd previously had a 1971/K 145 with the breathers the opposite way round. When i got the L reg, i at first assumed someone had put the breathers on incorrectly and swapped them back to how i thought they should be and it wouldn't tickover properly - very similar symptoms to yours? It seems you've tried most everything else, maybe the time now is to try the silly, stupid stuff and keep it that way?
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Aug 3rd, 2021, 21:25 | #35 | |
Chief Bodger
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I just can’t get my head around why taking the hose off and blocking it makes a big difference. Have you cleaned the cap and flame guard pot (pr whatever it’s called).
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Aug 3rd, 2021, 21:35 | #36 | |
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One day I will get rid of all of the rust. |
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Aug 3rd, 2021, 21:39 | #37 |
Chief Bodger
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Pic of a B18 setup showing NRV.
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One day I will get rid of all of the rust. |
Aug 3rd, 2021, 21:52 | #38 | |
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I’ve been through everything and it’s all clean as a whistle; the flame trap and the thing it’s attached to on the side of the block, the manifold nipple, the hoses, the filler cap. I will try making a little friction fit orifice disk with a smaller hole over the weekend and see how it behaves. If there is no change it maybe something I have to live with. There is nothing worse than being stopped at a junction and seeing the bonnet shaking and steering wheel vibrating out of the dash... pulling out the choke to fast idle does hide it. Other than that, the car is mint. |
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Aug 3rd, 2021, 22:05 | #39 | |
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Aug 4th, 2021, 02:15 | #40 | |
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Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
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If you have steering wheel shake you likely have problems with the rubber bushes which hold the steering column in the column support brackets. It could be as simple as one or both of the brackets that hold the rubber bushes has come loose. The rubber bush may also deteriorate; but, when I did work on my car a couple of years ago the bushes looked to be in excellent shape. If the steering wheel is vibrating in and out on the column you have a problem with the steering column thrust bearing adjustment at the top and bottom of the steering column. Don't ignore that because the actual thrust bearing cages are out of production and if yours gets damaged you are going to be into looking for a new steering column from a salvage car. |
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