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Update on overheating issues

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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 21:40   #1
niveketak
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Default Update on overheating issues

Having installed a reco unleaded head, new water pump and hoses I now have the same/similar problem as I had before all the work. Today I forgot to check the coolant level before driving on a 16 mile round trip. All had seemed well apart from the level in the radiator being too high and blowing water out of the over flow pipe, no expansion tank. Anyway on the return joourney after 3 hours the engine overheated. Having allowed it to cool down it took 2.5 litres of water to top it up. The only journey before this and after the work had been the same 16 miles round trip with a 3 hour break and no problems. I flushed the engine and radiator before and after the work and all ran clear. I am wondering if the radiator is the problem and the down tubes are clogged but have no idea how i can test it at home. Any ideas?
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Old Feb 20th, 2020, 23:24   #2
old fart
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How about removing the thermostat, and see if that makes a difference?
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Old Feb 21st, 2020, 08:18   #3
niveketak
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I had wondered about that but unless the thermostat is knackered then shouldn't need to do it.
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Old Feb 21st, 2020, 11:11   #4
old fart
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It's the only way to find out if it is knackered though. I had one that boiled within a couple of miles but was fine once the thermostat was removed, and fine with new one fitted, and it only takes 5 minutes to remove it.
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Old Feb 21st, 2020, 11:25   #5
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I'm really, really sorry that this is so basic, but by chance you haven't put the thermostat in upside down, have you? Easily done!
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Old Feb 21st, 2020, 11:56   #6
niveketak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old fart View Post
It's the only way to find out if it is knackered though. I had one that boiled within a couple of miles but was fine once the thermostat was removed, and fine with new one fitted, and it only takes 5 minutes to remove it.
Will have a look this afternoon.
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Old Feb 21st, 2020, 11:56   #7
niveketak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swedishandgerman View Post
I'm really, really sorry that this is so basic, but by chance you haven't put the thermostat in upside down, have you? Easily done!
and I am good at doing daft things like that so will have a look this afternoon
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Old Feb 21st, 2020, 12:25   #8
Derek UK
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I don't think you can fit the proper thermostat upside down. The by-pass plunger would clash with the top housing. It must be the correct type. An off the shelf one may fit and work to some degree but it should have the by-pass plunger to allow better warm up and control of the coolant in the block. Don't forget that you have to have the heater valve open, full heat, when you refill and run the car in order to get rid of trapped air in the matrix. That is higher than the rad so there can be an advantage to have the front of the car raised. Run it hot with thermostat open for 10 minutes, giving a burst of revs now and then. Top up so the level is about an inch below the top of the top rad tank. Replace cap, that may be the reason you are having coolant loss out of the pipe. Cap must have a good seal and be the correct length. Although it won't work like the bottle system you could run a length of tube to a catch bottle to see how much you might be losing.
Some will say that the system is self bleeding. I'd say that they are lucky and some are not.
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Old Feb 21st, 2020, 13:52   #9
niveketak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
I don't think you can fit the proper thermostat upside down. The by-pass plunger would clash with the top housing. It must be the correct type. An off the shelf one may fit and work to some degree but it should have the by-pass plunger to allow better warm up and control of the coolant in the block. Don't forget that you have to have the heater valve open, full heat, when you refill and run the car in order to get rid of trapped air in the matrix. That is higher than the rad so there can be an advantage to have the front of the car raised. Run it hot with thermostat open for 10 minutes, giving a burst of revs now and then. Top up so the level is about an inch below the top of the top rad tank. Replace cap, that may be the reason you are having coolant loss out of the pipe. Cap must have a good seal and be the correct length. Although it won't work like the bottle system you could run a length of tube to a catch bottle to see how much you might be losing.
Some will say that the system is self bleeding. I'd say that they are lucky and some are not.
It is a new cap from Simon so don't have any fears there but I didn't open the heater valve to hot so will check that too. Thanks Derek
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Old Feb 21st, 2020, 18:56   #10
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Default Hunting Heat

I have the same problem and haven't resolved it yet. The only thing I am enjoying about winter right now is I can drive my Amazon without overheating! Scary to see that boiling coolant in the overflow bottle. Maybe something in my efforts will help.

I've flushed the engine several times. I used one of those plastic plumbing clearing tools you can get from the hardware store. I reached it in from the rear of the block while using a hose to flush.

I’ve swapped the thermostat for one that is lower in temperature which helped a little. Mainly giving me more time before I hit the top of the gauge.

I have 2 infrared thermometers that I use to measure the engine temp from rear to front, checking near spark plugs. This was another way to verify the accuracy of the gauge and see the difference in temperature through out the engine.

Timing advance can have an impact. Playing with that didn’t make a difference for me.

I have an electric fan with a manual on/off switch so if I am sitting in traffic I can keep air flowing. Then turn off when I am moving again. Driving, faster the better, quickly drops the temp. The flow is good from the heater matrix and that is right by the gauge sensor.

The worst and most disastrous over heating occurred when I stopped after some hours on the highway, leaving the engine running without turning on the fan. Now I have new hoses, new thermostat housing and new washers all around. However my newly reconditioned radiator is leaking in several spots. I am waiting on a new aluminum rad. Previous owner had one installed and that worked very well at cooling. New York gets too hot in summer for a Swedish car.

I am also installing a new water pump. And then pulling the pipe that runs along the inside of the head on the spark plug side. You have to have the radiator out to do that. Sw-em.com has a good write up on that pipe with a modification suggestion. And a comprehensive write-up on the cooling system. (thanks Ron!)

I feel I am forgetting something. Any of these things might help. Good Luck with the hunt!
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