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Update on overheating issues

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Old Feb 21st, 2020, 19:23   #11
c1800
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Best to replace the pump with a cast metal impeller, not the stamped sheet metal impeller. The cast impeller is known to provide better circulation at idle and is the OEM type.

Another thing I did when flushing was take the drain tap fully out of the block, the one rearward of the oil filter and blow compressed air in there. You might be surprised as to how much crud it loosens up. Flushed several times with garden hose on thermostat opening and reverse flow with garden hose (with a spray nozzle on the hose) in the drain tap hole. More crud.

Good luck.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2020, 11:57   #12
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OK having taken Derek's advice I jacked the front of the car up high and ran it with the heater valve open. The car got nice and hot so I tried the heater, cold. I let it cool down but noted the two heater hoses were not warm. Removing them reveled no water in the hoses but some in the metal heater radiator pipes. I thought I would be clever and fill up the two hoses but this just caused the water to go down the overflow pipe. I am thinking the heater radiator may be blocked so will try and flush that out before I go any further. Could someone kindly take a picture of the hose layout to the heater for me, they went back as they came off when I changed the head but there is no guarantee they were on right in the first place as the previous French owner was a bit of a bodger when it came to mechanicals I discovered.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2020, 13:23   #13
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I'm assuming these are correct, as the heater works.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2020, 13:28   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old fart View Post
I'm assuming these are correct, as the heater works.
Thanks for the picture mate much appreciated.

Just a question from the image, does the hose from the base of the heater matrix go to the L shaped pipe on the head or to the red metal pipe down the side of the head. Difficult to see on the pic.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2020, 13:45   #15
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Pipe from bottom of matrix goes to the L shaped bracket, hose from the other pipe goes to the valve. It's no wonder you couldn't tell from the pic, it's hard enough to see from 6 inches away!
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Old Feb 23rd, 2020, 14:44   #16
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niveketak;

That hose routing sounds correct, but if Cooling Sys is hot and you get no heat from Heating/Defrost Sys (presumably when Heater Control Valve is set to warm), that confirms a blockage in that path...typically HCV or Bowden Control cable to same, but ANY blockage would obviously lead to the same result.

Correct Heater/Defrost Sys hose routing: https://www.sw-em.com/Cooling_System...efrost_systems Hose routing is actually not critical for cooling, and improper routing by itself is unlikely to cause overheating...

Good Hunting!
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Old Feb 23rd, 2020, 14:57   #17
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No blockage found as yet all seem to run free so still fiddling!
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Old Feb 23rd, 2020, 21:55   #18
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...or if Heater Control Valve is open and there's no Coolant flow, a big bubble where we would want Coolant! I recommend you burp your system!
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Old Feb 24th, 2020, 09:06   #19
niveketak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Kwas View Post
...or if Heater Control Valve is open and there's no Coolant flow, a big bubble where we would want Coolant! I recommend you burp your system!
How on earth do you burb a cooling system Ron? On that subject though, yesterday the heater hoses were getting hot but, the temp gauge was up towards max and there was the sound of over pressuring which would mean you are probably right I think. If you can break down the "burp" scenario I would be happy to have a go it is getting very frustrating at the moment.
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Old Feb 24th, 2020, 09:52   #20
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Another basic question from me!!!

When you say the thing is overheating, what do you mean exactly?
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