D24TIC - Crankshaft pulley/damper holding tool

iisansi · Jul 2nd, 2009, 11:33

I'm about to embark on changing the timing belts on my 940 2.4tic, but need to source the tool that locks the crank pulley/damper (is it Volvo tool 5187?).
Would prefer to hire/beg/borrow. Any suggestions?

I've scanned this forum, but not found anything - unless I were to spend days searching!

jor · Jul 2nd, 2009, 11:57

You are welcome to borrow mine should you, or anyone you know, be passing through NW London anytime in the near future. The tool costs around ₤45 from Volvo, which is a bit much for something only used once every few years, particularly if you are going to change the tensioner and water pump which are similarly priced.

jor

iisansi · Jul 2nd, 2009, 12:08

Thanks - I'll bear it in mind. As I live near Exeter, logistics might be a problem, so I'll keep you posted

HEAVY747 · Jul 2nd, 2009, 22:12

Post the tool!! But pay a deposit upfront to keep matters sweet. Then post tool back and get refund. One thing - use new bolt from stealership when putting pulley back on. You can always take starter motor off and jam fly wheel tooth with strong screwdriver will work

MRDART · Jul 5th, 2009, 14:34

While you have the pulley/ damper out make a drawing or a photocopy of it and make a proper tool...
Best regards/ MRDART

John Davies · Sep 2nd, 2009, 23:57

I made one several years ago but can't find it. If it turns up I will post photos.

Basically - removed radiator - there was no aircon or air conditioning on that car so life was simple. Cut out four small L shaped pieces of 2 x 2 x 5/16 angle iron (only size I had around), to fit recesses on pulley, attached these to cardboard pattern with masking tape, and then transferred them to the centre of a 240/740 rear brake disc - I had already removed all bar a ring about 1 1/2 " wide around the central hole with a grinder.

Tack welded them to ring, tried for size, then seam welded when I was sure. Attached more angle to the ring - to both outer edges, and joined at the top, making a V.

Wedged it under chassis - took 1 and a quarter hours to make and worked a treat until I found the proper thing on ebay!

Regards

John Davies

iisansi · Sep 14th, 2009, 08:29

Thanks for all your replies. After much consideration, have decided to take vehicle off the road and take time to give it a bit more renovation, so have bitten the bullet and bought the tool from local independent.

jor · Sep 14th, 2009, 22:36

If you are going to go as far as taking it off the road you might consider a thinner HG. Would require someone to measure the height of the pistons, but if there's enough room to take one or two layers out of the part one there are considerable power gains to be had.
The other way of doing it is to modify the pump, as Peter Milnes did with his. He managed 180 hp or thereabouts all the more remarkable on a fuel consumption of 38mpg! His was done professionally, I think that unless you know what you are doing you will probably just end up with more smoke and there is the potential for doing damage.
BTW if you are going to remove the exhaust to rod the cat use a nut splitter, as the studs are not very strong.

jor

iisansi · Sep 15th, 2009, 18:10

Thanks, Jor - this is tempting.
I have already opened another thread on how to improve lower-down power, as I couldn't relocate much earlier posts on this topic. Would you know where I could locate information on Peter Milnes' "tweeks"?

iisansi

Jul 2nd, 2009, 11:33	#1
iisansi New Member Last Online: Jan 22nd, 2010 16:55 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Newton Abbot	Crankshaft pulley/damper holding tool I'm about to embark on changing the timing belts on my 940 2.4tic, but need to source the tool that locks the crank pulley/damper (is it Volvo tool 5187?). Would prefer to hire/beg/borrow. Any suggestions? I've scanned this forum, but not found anything - unless I were to spend days searching!

Jul 2nd, 2009, 11:57	#2
jor VOC 20573 Last Online: Jul 10th, 2023 22:14 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: wembley	timing belt You are welcome to borrow mine should you, or anyone you know, be passing through NW London anytime in the near future. The tool costs around ₤45 from Volvo, which is a bit much for something only used once every few years, particularly if you are going to change the tensioner and water pump which are similarly priced. jor Last edited by jor; Jul 2nd, 2009 at 12:00.

Sep 2nd, 2009, 23:57	#6
John Davies VOC Member Last Online: Sep 26th, 2015 22:56 Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Walsall	I made one several years ago but can't find it. If it turns up I will post photos. Basically - removed radiator - there was no aircon or air conditioning on that car so life was simple. Cut out four small L shaped pieces of 2 x 2 x 5/16 angle iron (only size I had around), to fit recesses on pulley, attached these to cardboard pattern with masking tape, and then transferred them to the centre of a 240/740 rear brake disc - I had already removed all bar a ring about 1 1/2 " wide around the central hole with a grinder. Tack welded them to ring, tried for size, then seam welded when I was sure. Attached more angle to the ring - to both outer edges, and joined at the top, making a V. Wedged it under chassis - took 1 and a quarter hours to make and worked a treat until I found the proper thing on ebay! Regards John Davies __________________ Volvo 760 GLE turbodiesel estate 1989 (auto). Ford Mondeo 2001 mk. 3 Ghia X petrol estate. Austin A60 Cambridge 1966 (auto) . Austin A60 Cambridge 1967 (manual) undergoing restoration.

Sep 14th, 2009, 22:36	#8
jor VOC 20573 Last Online: Jul 10th, 2023 22:14 Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: wembley	If you are going to go as far as taking it off the road you might consider a thinner HG. Would require someone to measure the height of the pistons, but if there's enough room to take one or two layers out of the part one there are considerable power gains to be had. The other way of doing it is to modify the pump, as Peter Milnes did with his. He managed 180 hp or thereabouts all the more remarkable on a fuel consumption of 38mpg! His was done professionally, I think that unless you know what you are doing you will probably just end up with more smoke and there is the potential for doing damage. BTW if you are going to remove the exhaust to rod the cat use a nut splitter, as the studs are not very strong. jor __________________ Volvo 940 SE 1994 D24Tic. BMW C1 85 mpg Last edited by jor; Sep 14th, 2009 at 22:39.

Jul 2nd, 2009, 12:08	#3
iisansi New Member Last Online: Jan 22nd, 2010 16:55 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Newton Abbot	Thanks - I'll bear it in mind. As I live near Exeter, logistics might be a problem, so I'll keep you posted

Jul 2nd, 2009, 22:12	#4
HEAVY747 Junior Member Last Online: May 26th, 2018 20:10 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: york	Post the tool!! But pay a deposit upfront to keep matters sweet. Then post tool back and get refund. One thing - use new bolt from stealership when putting pulley back on. You can always take starter motor off and jam fly wheel tooth with strong screwdriver will work

Jul 5th, 2009, 14:34	#5
MRDART Junior Member Last Online: Jan 19th, 2010 08:40 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Tomelilla	While you have the pulley/ damper out make a drawing or a photocopy of it and make a proper tool... Best regards/ MRDART

Sep 14th, 2009, 08:29	#7
iisansi New Member Last Online: Jan 22nd, 2010 16:55 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Newton Abbot	Thanks for all your replies. After much consideration, have decided to take vehicle off the road and take time to give it a bit more renovation, so have bitten the bullet and bought the tool from local independent.

Sep 15th, 2009, 18:10	#9
iisansi New Member Last Online: Jan 22nd, 2010 16:55 Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Newton Abbot	Thanks, Jor - this is tempting. I have already opened another thread on how to improve lower-down power, as I couldn't relocate much earlier posts on this topic. Would you know where I could locate information on Peter Milnes' "tweeks"? iisansi

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