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What's the P80 850 V70 S70 C70 Killers & Std. Faults

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Old Feb 28th, 2017, 22:50   #21
CNGBiFuel
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Quote:
The bigger brakes just use bigger discs, longer hoses and different carriers to space the calipers further out.
I'd hope not. Just? Just? eh? When? Each is a very different system, hence the pad specs for each. As soon as you change disc diameter, the systems whilst using the same caliper have not even a remote connection, everything changed. There's a helluva lot more going on than "They just move the caliper out" isn't the? (Please say to yourself you see why?) Don't answer that here, this is not a Physics lesson or any brake thread. That's another thread entirely.
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Old Mar 1st, 2017, 10:40   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CNGBiFuel View Post
I'd hope not. Just? Just? eh? When? Each is a very different system, hence the pad specs for each. As soon as you change disc diameter, the systems whilst using the same caliper have not even a remote connection, everything changed. There's a helluva lot more going on than "They just move the caliper out" isn't the? (Please say to yourself you see why?) Don't answer that here, this is not a Physics lesson or any brake thread. That's another thread entirely.
The main reason the bigger (302mm/16 inch) brakes came about was because plod had a moan as they weren't up to the standard of repeated heavy braking so volvo needed to find a quick solution (presumably to within a budget) that could be quickly and easily retrofitted to the existing police cars.

I've seen the volvo parts catalogue for these cars - I'm guessing from your answer that you haven't.

As I said before the 17 inch kit is a completely different system - no arguement there.

I don't even know why we are arguing tbh. Putting the 17 inch kit aside the 302mm kit is better than the 280mm and even better when used with the police pads (at the sacrifice of mileage for the pads as they don't last as long for obvious reasons). Does it really matter that we have to go into the whole "physics" background on everything?

PS I do have an A level in physics and I'm not a fan of your tone presuming that I need teaching. You also don't get to choose "who comments what" on the forum - that's the moderators job.
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Old Mar 1st, 2017, 13:39   #23
CNGBiFuel
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I think from different directions, we're saying the same thing. Police pads has been done to death. Yet, this is messing-up the thread, and of course, you're correct. I can't stop you rail-roading this into whatever you wish (or anyone else come to that). Some have already tried - so I can't promise to keep the core of this thread as a signpost.


3 x Kid seats / 3 x Integrated Boosters & 7-Seater

Not a fault, and certainly not a P80 killer either, but aside from the popular 7-seater conversion, if you've kids and several at that (or their friends), seat-boosters were an option that stop having booster seats floating about in your car. Stops adding to the inevitable clutter kids seem to make. Yet there when you need them. See pix.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1999V70IntegratedBooster 19-03-13 1.jpg (208.8 KB, 49 views)
File Type: png 7 Seater Grey04.png (349.9 KB, 30 views)
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Old Mar 2nd, 2017, 00:13   #24
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Here's another P80 fault I remember I had on an S70. Sometimes I had to give the driver's door a really hard slam, otherwise the red marker light in the door shut would not turn off. The negative effect was the driver's footwell light remaining on and the inability to engage the alarm with remote central locking.
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Old Mar 2nd, 2017, 10:28   #25
CNGBiFuel
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Hadn't heard of that one. Had something similar in that, I think the two are related? Where the driver's door lock micro-switch fails to make contact. Means the central-locking and alarm no longer sets via the keyfob. Will cover that when I've a mo'.


Coil Packs on 1999 & 2000 cars
The last of the P80s had Denso ignition systems (it was also these that had the ETM issues covered earlier). The coil packs start to play-up at extended mileages. Car will run on four at low to mid throttle and run very lumpy.

Lift off the plastic spark-plug/coil cover. Engine running, in turn pull the plug off each coil-pack, doing this should make the engine run still worse. If it doesn't, you've found the kiddy. Replace this coil-pack. Messing with coils will likely throw a ignition fault code and put on your CEL. You'll need a code reader to reset. Scanguage is good, but there's cheaper.
These same coil-packs fit some later Volvos, hence Phase 2 S80 S60 V70 XC70, so cheap and plentiful.

Got mine via eblag, two used packs in my stash for £13 delivered, ready for the next one or two to fail. Suppose I shoudl buy new, but at that price I'll take my chances. To identify see piccy.
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Old Mar 4th, 2017, 10:46   #26
CNGBiFuel
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Central locking / Alarm setting issues

Fob won't lock you car?

1. The lock ring around the ignition switch - less likely. This causes startign issues - will cover that soon.
2. The lock microswitches in each door. Try the drivers door first, it'll be the one that catches the most wear.

Quote:
Faulty Door Lock Micro-switches How to identify!

When locking the car with the fob the alarm wouldn't set. With help from the forum I found out that the micro switches in the door locks can go faulty.

Here's how to identify which ones(s) without a trip to the stealers.

First pull fuse 15 which should be a ten amp.

Then switch the courtesy lights off using the switch in the roof console (Depressed right)

Then turn the ignition on.

The door/tailgate open light on the lower left on the console should be off. If it is dimly lit you have a problem.

Go around one door at a time and open it. When open the light should change to brightly lit. Do this individually for the doors, the bonnet, the tailgate and this glove box.

If the status of the light does NOT change when you open something then you have a problem there.

I have just finished using this method to successfully determine that my rear left passenger door had a problem.



Microswitch is not usually the issue per se. Mostly wear not operating said switch. You can usually cobble up a wedge under the switch. Else micowitches on eBay are £2-3 delivered.

Courtesy of another thread:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=97382
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Old Mar 4th, 2017, 13:55   #27
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Another link on the lock issue.

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Old Mar 5th, 2017, 09:49   #28
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OK a little bit tongue in cheek but...... VW owners who see the TDi's as donor cars for engine transplants. When I've browsed fleabay for bits for mine I've quite often come across an advert for a 'can be heard running and driven engine' in a diesel 850/V70, which quite possibly means the car was not too far from roadworthy condition. Sometimes for the engine alone they have been asking £750- £1000 so its not really surprising these cars get sacrificed. It would be interesting to know how many of these engines - after possibly 20+ years and several 100K miles in a Volvo, have found new life pushing a VW around.

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Old Mar 5th, 2017, 11:14   #29
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Fuel pumps randomly 'fail', not nice if in lane 3 as you lose all power. Expensive from Volvo too. I went for a 40 euro used and 6yrs on all good. The 1st yard I went to had 6 850's all had their pumps removed!

Throttle cables (on cars so fitted) become 'stiff/sticky'. Replacement is easy
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Old Mar 6th, 2017, 01:47   #30
CNGBiFuel
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Installing a Handfree phone / Mp3 / Satnav
Post 13 covered how to hack an input into your stock head unit and I highly recommend going that way, yet there's still somewhere needed to put your Phone / Mp3 / Satnav.

Swedish outfit Brodit make three mounts specifically for P80s. Examples:

http://www.brodit.com/product.html?id=652412

Part No. Brodit 652412

And:
http://www.brodit.com/product.html?id=652426&pn=prod

Part No. Brodit 652426

Brodit stuff is very good quality, but can be pricey. eBay gets you Brodit 652412 for £9.95. Elsewhere £25.00
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File Type: jpg Brodit 02.jpg (21.6 KB, 44 views)
File Type: jpg Brodit01.jpg (17.9 KB, 45 views)
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