Engine: D5: A puzzle for the EGR valve expert/masochists out there...

[Bonroo1989]

Sorry, car in question is a V70 2.4 D5 2006 185bhp

[john493]

1A62 - communication with engine controol module, signal misssing
E000 - Control module communication, faulty communication

4430 - EGR valve, faulty signal
4450 - EGR position sensor, faulty signal
1870 - swirl actuator control, faulty signal


Check the swirl flap linkage is intact - this often comes off. This could simply be failure of the linkage or it could be the swirl flaps need replacement, which requires removal of the inlet manifold and injectors.

Then it is likely you have a faulty or seized EGR valve or position sensor or actuator. You could spend ages as per previous posts on this thread, testing and checking signals, but on balance the valve is likely seized or the actuator is faulty or both. I would remove the valve and clean and inspect it. (Not a quick job on the euro 4 but not that difficult either)

[Bonroo1989]

would i be right in saying that the EGR iussue is what's causing the no throttle?

[john493]

Originally Posted by Bonroo1989

would i be right in saying that the EGR iussue is what's causing the no throttle?

Likely - you need to work through the codes, swirl flaps is first, then EGR, both can cause running problems.

[Bonroo1989]

much appreciated! it's odd because other than the lack of throttle, the car behaves suspiciously normally, albiet with no umph

is the EGR a common issue on these engines? Also, if i were to replace the ECU on top the air box, is this a straight swap plug and play scenario?

i'll update in due course when investigate the EGR

i apologise for the barrage of questions!

[john493]

Originally Posted by Bonroo1989

much appreciated! it's odd because other than the lack of throttle, the car behaves suspiciously normally, albiet with no umph

is the EGR a common issue on these engines? Also, if i were to replace the ECU on top the air box, is this a straight swap plug and play scenario?

i'll update in due course when investigate the EGR

i apologise for the barrage of questions!

AFAIK, you'd need to get a replacement ECU coded to the car - if you believe you have an ECU fault, you might be better sending it to a specialist for testing / repair, such as BBA Reman (google it).
EGR issues are quite common.

[bobsy852]

Im trying to find out what's involved in replacing the EGR on my V70 D5 (2007 euro 4) as it's put my car into limp mode.
A garage wants £750 to replace it so being fairly diy handy I wondered if I could do it?

Im assuming Neil is no longer around to ask for a breakdown of wgT's involved and how to go about it?

[john493]

You need to remove the EGR valve complete with the cooler. Access is tight which makes the job take longer. You could try cleaning it in situ first, you might get some improvement.

[bobsy852]

So ive cleaned out the EGR but it seems it may have been in bits before and the bolts holding the throttle body to the EGR have been cross threaded.

I wondered if anyone has a parts diagram or part number for the bolts or is simply able to tell me the size of the bolts so I can source replacements?

Many thanks
Rob

[kitdavison89]

Hi All,
hoping someone might be able to provide some guidance on this. I have been a victim of this problem, which started last christmas eve with a 14hr drive back from the alps with no turbo....

Anyways, I spent last weekend cleaning out the throttle and EGR valves which were caked. Unfortunatley I'm still getting the engine service required lights and so thinking i haven't fully fixed the problem. I've decided i probably need to replace parts now; It took me 4days to get the whole thing back together so am reluctant to go through the same process. Do you think i need to replace the mechanical valve bit which is embedded in the throttle body (forgive me if i'm calling things by the wrong names) or can i just replace the black plastic bit on the front which i assume is the solenoid valve itself (this bit: https://www.micksgarage.com/d/egr-va...burg-egr-valve)

The solenoid valve doesn't seem to be that much cheaper than the whole unit, but would be a lot easier to fit.

Thanks for any advice - i'm concious that i don't want to cut corners if it really is worth replacing the whole unit
Kit