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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Rear light bulb fittingsViews : 876 Replies : 13Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 7th, 2019, 13:41 | #1 |
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Rear light bulb fittings
Dear All,
Does anyone know where to order the inside contact pads for rear bulb fittings. I’m keen to re-use, recycle, save money on my youngest lad’s 122s. It has had a problem with the rear brake lights being constantly on. Suspecting a bad earth I’ve discovered the ugliest soldering job/wiring I’ve seen in a while. I’ve looked across the t’interweb, without success. Any help would be massively appreciated, as I’m keen not to have to fork £66 per side for the full reflector, and I don’t want to solder on for the same problem to recur. Many thanks, Damo |
Jul 7th, 2019, 13:43 | #2 |
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Here is a photo of the part needed.
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Jul 7th, 2019, 13:49 | #3 |
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Sorry, this is the actual part I need. The photo above is the soldering.
Thanks |
Jul 7th, 2019, 20:16 | #4 |
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Last Online: Apr 26th, 2024 10:03
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light unit
I dont think that item is available, the small insulation pad. A complete unit is available from Brookhouse etc.
I will have a look in my spares asap to see if i have an insulation pad. Chris. |
Jul 8th, 2019, 22:54 | #5 | |
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Quote:
It is really appreciated. I am thinking that I might just by two singles and one twin contact per side, of these: |
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Jul 9th, 2019, 12:01 | #6 |
Junior Member
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If you're looking to replace the contacts at the ends of the wires, these will do the trick... used them on my Amazon.
https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=LC%2D8 |
Jul 9th, 2019, 15:26 | #7 | |
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Quote:
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Jul 9th, 2019, 18:59 | #8 |
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Last Online: Apr 26th, 2024 10:03
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rear lampholders
Buying those lampholders is going to cost the best part of £36 + post and vat.
Derek has offered a good cheap repair idea. I have also soldered the cable ends to a small brass washer and domed the ends with solder which also does the trick. Are your insulation pads present and in good order? Are you sure the fact that the brake lights being permanently on is not being caused by a faulty BL switch? |
Jul 9th, 2019, 22:31 | #9 | |
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Yup ! I reckon it’ll cost me a couple of quid for to buy some 0.75 14A red and white wire, and solder it onto the contact pad, then solder and heat shrink it onto the existing wires that broke off. I’m pretty certain that it’s not a switch, as the soldered join to the pass had completely broken. I’ve got to reattach anyway, and then I’ll check the brake light switch if it’s still not fixed and the brake lights continue to stay on. I’m really grateful for your help on this. Cheers Damien |
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Jul 10th, 2019, 01:35 | #10 |
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Damien;
Welcome to this forum also from me...I've been away and am just catching up...and there is a lot in this thread I would like to comment on... First of all, if all you need is a round insulating washer like that with two holes, I see little to keep you from making up one using fibreglass reinforced circuit board material (use those present as a dimensional guide)...and as another option to Derek's advice on wire termination, modifying a solder terminal as I also needed to do...see link which covers a restoration of a 122 rear light fixture: http://www.sw-em.com/Amazon_Rear_Lig...estoration.htm Wire gauge for the lighting circuits is 18. Soldering is always preferred for permanent repairs, but properly crimped with ACZP on wire-strands and crimp is a good second best (both result in Gas-Tight-Joints). (See: https://www.sw-em.com/Wiring%20Notes.htm ...and http://www.sw-em.com/anti_corrosive_paste.htm) Conjecture is fine in the pub over a pint, but when it comes to locating and eliminating issues, especially on important safety equipment such as Brake Lights, proper troubleshooting is better IMO...Brake Light Switch provides (Ign) power and chassis return path is local at the rear fixture (so I fail to see how ANY poor chassis connection could cause the stated symptoms). Reference amazon Wiring Diagram: https://www.sw-em.com/122S%20Wiring%20Diagram.jpg )...with Ign ON, have a helper verify Brake Lights are ON (with Brake Pedal at rest)...disconnect one wire at BLS (Early is Hydraulically activated and located on Brake Distribution Block in engine compartment, post '66-'67 is mechanically activated by Brake Pedal Arm and located in driver's footwell), .if they are ON when BLS is connected (Light Fixture issues notwithstanding), this suggests a shorted/welded contact within BLS. Replace BLS, but be aware of reliability issues with these switches and have a look at this Bulletin: https://www.sw-em.com/safety_bulletin_1.htm Hope that helps...Good Hunting! |
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