Small items wanted

[volvo164guy]

After about twelve years of rebuilding my 1969 164 she's finally finished! Just a few piddly things left:
1) two flat-backed washers that are used to hold fast the rear door panels and also the same washers used for the magazine rack on the rear of the front seats.
2) the Volvo fuse kit made of clear plastic, rectangular-shaped, with the Volvo logo on the top.
I'll pay up to 1 million dollars for this stuff (just kidding!) Any reasonable amount for sure.
Here's of a picture of my 164. Enjoy!

[Triple-S]

Hi - fine looking car, almost identical to one of mine except that you drive on the wrong side!

re fuse box, you mean the one horizontally across the centre of the car? Do you need the entire box or just the plastic cover? My cars are not here so can't check straight away, but not quite sure what you mean about washers. I assume you have those netting magazine stores on the back of your seats? Can you tell me more please.

Its funny how one is familiar with a car after years of ownership, yet a question is asked and ones mind goes totally blank! Perhaps its a Sunday (or age) thing.

P

[Derek UK]

Hello Jack. Small world. Washer is part # 959057 and appears on 17 pages of the interior parts list I haven't counted up how many are used but there must be LOTS! If you can't find a breaker 164/144 to rob you might be able to use some that are hidden away and substitute those with some thing else. Paul, I think these might be cup washers? 2 used on the door to trims?
I think that jack is looking for an accessory fuse box of the type you keep in the car for emergencies. I've sent Jack pictures of the ones I have but can only find Volvo's combined grey lamp and fuse box.
Jack. The picture of the bubble pack with the white ceramic fuses in that I sent has more than the number of fuses in as sold. Some extras have been added by the friend that gave it to me. The Volvo card can be separated from the plastic, leaving the plastic as a separate box which folds in half, popping together to keep the fuses inside. Not very substantial. I have a later pack of fuses which has the same number 273598-3 but with that one the plastic just pops off the card. No lid, but you can keep it closed with the card backing.
Jack/Paul/All. I've not been able to find a Volvo logo'd box that is just for fuses.
Jack has seen a clear box one with a Mercedes 3 pointed star on. That may or may not be a genuine MB item?
Geek mode off..................

[volvo164guy]

Hello again Derek!
Thanks for the washer part numbers. I found them in stock several places and ordered a few with screws (955154). I looked at GCP and wondered why I hadn't thought of that before. You know when you finish a project, it all gets vague. Or is it age? Anyway, thanks for the tip. While I was on the GCP site I noticed they stocked four fuse kits. I sent them a picture of the Mercedes kit to compare to theirs. We'll see...

Cheers!
Jack

[volvo164guy]

Thanks for your reply. As Derek said, it's the spare fuse kit I'm looking for, sorry for any confusion. I found the washers in stock in a Volvo parts warehouse in TX. With a part number (thanks Derek) and an internet connection we can do anything. What's the part number for world peace?
Let's see a picture of your 164.
Thanks,
Jack

[srs4164]

Hello Jack,

I have a '72 164E. Sorry to use your thread to contact you, but I am not yet able to send PMs.

I'm trying to locate someone with first hand knowledge/experience with what I've seen referred to as 'silt buildup in the rear of the block' on B30s. Is this something you know anything about? I'm trying to determine whether or not my specific symptoms indicate that this is truly what's causing my problem and that the only way to correct it is by pulling the head in order to gain access to what needs to be cleaned out, or if there's any possibility that the water/coolant distribution pipe in the head could be the real culprit.

Any help / advice will be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Stan

[volvo164guy]

Stan,
What are the symptoms? Have you asked the question on brickboard.com?

[srs4164]

Jack,

Thanks for the response. I haven't tried posting this on brickboard yet. There's seems to be much less activity there then in the past and sadly, the one B30 expert I knew of there (Walrus) has passed as has the one guy (940 Turbo) who used to post here who knew of this specific problem.

Anyway, the car doesn't just out and out overheat, the temp. gauge just creeps up slowly to the red, whether at idle or moving. I've done "everything normal" to try to correct this, starting with an initial coolant and thermostat (82C degrees with jiggle valve) change, then pulling the radiator (receipt from PO shows recored about 9000 miles ago) and having shop confirm its "wide open" with no blockages, next came the water pump and finally the fan clutch. Somewhere along the way I also got new radiator and overflow tank caps (both OEM) and neither radiator hosed is collapsed.

By now I've also tested and tried various sensors for the gauge and even tested my gauge (sensor in pot of hot water instead of in block) as well as the voltage stabilizer, going so far as to even swap in a different instrument cluster which I'd already bench tested as being OK.

I did post something about this on turbobricks, but didn't get any responses. They seem to be more about the 240s. In a way, I'm not really anxious to get 20 different replies from people guessing at what it might be and asking me exactly what I'd already tried to rectify the situation. I'm not even sure any of these guys would know about this problem cause I don't think its something the 4 cylinder stuff suffers from. Seems like it'd be better if I could just find someone who knows about this engine and this specific problem.

So, beyond having tried everything else, here's what's troubling. At some point, I got an IR thermometer. Right next to the thermostat housing, on the manifold side, I get about 190 degrees. Exact same all along the top of the head on the area between the valve cover and the manifold. UNTIL, we get to the back. Right next to the furthest rear head bolt, I get temps as high as 234 degrees. This is right next to where the sensor is for the temp. gauge!

Note that 234 degree reading occurs if I run the car with the heater control valve closed. If I open this valve up, I get this temp. down to about 210 degrees. Basically, I keep this problem in check by keeping my heater control valve constantly wide open. Unfortunately, this problem started toward the end of last summer and I fear that with the hot weather coming, this may not be enough.

My other fear is I'm not taking care of a problem that will cause the early failure of my #5 + 6 cylinders. So, I've never pulled a head and I only know about this problem from seeing a few mentions of it in old posts. I've also only recently found out about the distribution pipe that hides in the head. You can get at it by pulling the front freeze plug, but getting it out this way isn't easy and the pipe is soft metal that can be easily damaged (I just did this this past weekend at a junk yard). The correct way is to also pull the rear freeze plug and push it out. Unfortunately, this can't be done with the head on the car.

Obviously, I don't want to have to pull the head if I don't have to. My post on turbobricks already asked if there was anyone who wanted to help me do this (and clearly stated that compensation would be "more then just beer"!), but as I've already mentioned, got no replies. I also don't want to mess with the water distribution pipe separately unless I'm confident that has a chance to actually fix the problem on its own.

So, I'm really hoping to find someone who can say, 'yes, I've encountered this problem, this is exactly how the symptoms would appear and this will / won't fix it', before I tear further into the old girl.

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

Stan

P.S. - she's only got 58,000 miles on her and I'm really hoping to keep it running for many years as my daily driver. Other then this problem, the car runs beautifully.

[volvo164guy]

Stan,

Let me check with a couple of my restoration guys I know. I'll get back to you when I get their feedback. Meanwhile, I would urge you to post it on BB. Planetman (Eric) is the owner of a vintage repair/rebuild shop south of LA that is good at troubleshooting and has done excellent work for me. Tbc...
Jack

[srs4164]

Jack,

Already discussed this with Eric, who's an incredible resource. He's the one who first told me about the trick of pulling the front freeze plug to get at the distribution pipe, but, his experience is still mainly with the B20, with no direct experience with this on a B30. I don't think this is a scenario he's actually ever encountered as I just haven't seen anything that indicates the 4 cyl motors 'silt up' at the rear of the block at all.

If you find out anything from any of your sources, I'll greatly appreciate you passing it along to me!

By the way, almost forgot to mention, your car looks beautiful!

Stan