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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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B230FD Problems :)Views : 8000 Replies : 156Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 20th, 2020, 06:01 | #151 |
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No, I suggested that this would be one of few explanations that fit with your described symptoms.
It was slightly tongue-in-cheek and aimed more at Dave. OK, here we go. Your battery is fully charged. I assume you have measured it - let us know. Its easy to check if the new alternator is the cause of the misfire at 3,000 rpm. Just disconnect it electrically (take off BOTH the B+ and the w/l wire) and run the car. If it still misses at 3000 rpm, the alternator is not the cause, something else is. Do only this - nothing else, not even if you think it will help. Just what I said. Tell us what happens. Last edited by aardvarkash10; Feb 20th, 2020 at 06:31. |
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Feb 20th, 2020, 08:14 | #152 | |
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Measure Follow Ash and his instructions Or sell the car I'm out here, waste of time to me Good luck!!! |
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Feb 20th, 2020, 08:15 | #153 | |||
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Pull fuse #1 - the ECU has a memory for faults, fuel trims etc and does indeed have a Limp Mode - not all faults light the Engine Management Light. Quote:
You really need to get yourself a NOID light, it's not like they're expensive and it will save a lot of time, trouble and head-scratching by simply showing if the injectors are cutting out at 3000rpm. Do the test Ash described and let us know the outcome.
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Feb 20th, 2020, 11:30 | #154 | |
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It’s an ecu for b230fb. But the MAF, does it need to match the ecu? When changing ecu? Or do I change it aswell I got ECUand EZK for B230FB Well Ash, it’s your choice to help me or not. I appreciate your help, your help aswel, Dave The noid light. Really, I need to get one then. But the symptoms of not reving more than 3000rpm. It happened on the 100a alternator. Didn’t happen in my 65ampere So, what I should try next is Record my injectors with noid light 2. Try changing ECU and EZK 3. Install my 100ampere again. Tps can also be causing problems hm. But I did measure it. But I don’t remember my readings, gotta measure again. |
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Feb 20th, 2020, 12:13 | #155 | |
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The ECUs aren't always interchangeable. The MAF is 0 280 212 016 and is used on both the B230FD and B230FB as well as the F, FK and FT models and the B234F so you shouldn't need to change the MAF to match the ECU - whoever told you that needs their neck stretched! Make sure the ECU you have fitted before you try it again is the correct one, ending in 946 - disconnect the battery and remove fuse #1 before changing it, only replace fuse #1 after the battery is reconnected. Make sure the 100A alternator is fitted too! As for the TPS, i know you've measured it, i'm talking about disconnecting the orange wire from the TPS to prove it's not staying connected to earth through any fault of the switch. The EZK unit you should have is the 0 227 400 196 for the FD engine. The FB uses the 0 227 400 175 so once you've made sure the fuel ECU is the correct 946 unit, make sure the EZK unit is the 196 unit. In short, disconnect the battery and put it on charge. Refit the 100A alternator, make sure the ECUs are fitted as described above (fuel 946, EZK 196) and pull fuse #1 then take the battery off charge and reconnect it. Refit fuse #1. Start it up and see what you've got. If it won't rev above 3000rpm, remove the orange wire from the TPS and try again. If it still won't rev, switch everything off and get your multimeter on Ohms and check the resitance from the orange wire to earth - there shoudn't be any connection at all. If that's all ok, reconnect the orange wire to the TPS and fit the NOID light (yes, it is essential to fault finding!) to one of the injectors and monitor it as you bring the revs up. If it gets to 3000rpm or thereabouts and the NOID light goes out, keep the throttle in the position it's in and wait and see what happens. I suspect it will drop to near idle speed and then the NOID light will start working again and the engine will rev again. For the record, we know your 65A alternator is dead. The ECU will see this and go into Limp Mode so will default to preset values for certain sensors. Also it depends which ECU you have fitted at the moment, without the correct ECUs fitted, we don't know if we're making progress or going round in circles getting nowhere!
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Mar 6th, 2020, 16:52 | #156 | |
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Thanks for your support and help with this game. It’s been a pleasure. |
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Mar 6th, 2020, 20:19 | #157 |
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Sorry to hear about your car!
If it's any consolation, if a mouse has made a meal of the electrics, any car can catch fire. On the upside, karma smiled on you in a couple of ways. First, you don't need to worry about fixing the fault and second, the mouse caused your car to become a BBQ, the mouse itself got BBQ'd!
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b230fd, faultcodes, help and advice, lean and rich, rough idle |
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