Clicking sounds from spinning wheels

[360beast]

Originally Posted by mhuk

Understood. It would be a total pain to post . What’s your rough locator? Cheers

I'm in Worcester

[mhuk]

Cheers

pm sent or at least i think it has.

[bluebrickrick]

Firstly, been off for a while, hope all have kept well and sane during these extraordinary times !

Had a handbrake cable go, drivers side so thought I'd replace the shoes as they were getting a shade thin, with disc, shoes, calipers etc off, I rotated the hub for some reason and was treated to a gentle (compared with the two posted video's) clicking noise, no alarm as I'd heard similar on the fronts from bits of rusty backplate encountering the castellated ABS rings, after what seemed to be the hundredth attempt at getting that swine spring hung into the shoes (apart from other ageing issues, back is bad at moment and as car work is done on the grass, on blocks posture and approach angle is a pain - I finally found a length of steel wire, ex armoured cable sheathing. made into a loop and trapped under the last turn allows one hand to securely extend spring with a screwdriver pivoted on shoe while t'other manipulated the snipe noses ! Bingo) anyhow at this point it dawned on me the backs do not have those ABS senders so much looking and listening brought me to wheel or diff bearings, nearside wheel and diff silent, diff full of oil, offside and stethoscope results in it being the wheel bearing making this noise.
Nipped over to my shrinking parts motor for the equivalent half shaft, and as much as anything a dry run - all OK except those 4 x 14mm screws holding the hub in, yes you can get a socket in but nothing in my armoury was shallow enough to drive it so combo spanner and lump hammer ruled and were they tight! ended up with severe lacerations to the hands until I realised the red stuff wasn't brake fluid, it was numerous razor cuts from the chrome plating coming off the spanner.
As the axles are different and having found a friendly owner of a hydraulic press prepared to let me use it after hours once his staff had left I've not tried the 'new' shaft but ordered a bearing kit, a QH, which doesn't have the inner seal, at worst I'll use the old or 'spare' whichever looks in nicest order.

So thanks for your confirmation I'm on the right track, I had one on a grossly overloaded 745 seize up solid on the road with no prior heat or audible warning (Not far from Dave fortunately as I had to be trailered back to Norwich), I was going to cut the ring off when the replacement arrived but we've had serious rain and I need a wetsuit and snorkel to get under the old girl today, fortunately I have transport to take the bits to the press, my other tractor is a 1958 Fordson Major
Still no solution to my cluster lights problem - don't the months go quickly...

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by bluebrickrick

Firstly, been off for a while, hope all have kept well and sane during these extraordinary times !

Had a handbrake cable go, drivers side so thought I'd replace the shoes as they were getting a shade thin, with disc, shoes, calipers etc off, I rotated the hub for some reason and was treated to a gentle (compared with the two posted video's) clicking noise, no alarm as I'd heard similar on the fronts from bits of rusty backplate encountering the castellated ABS rings, after what seemed to be the hundredth attempt at getting that swine spring hung into the shoes (apart from other ageing issues, back is bad at moment and as car work is done on the grass, on blocks posture and approach angle is a pain - I finally found a length of steel wire, ex armoured cable sheathing. made into a loop and trapped under the last turn allows one hand to securely extend spring with a screwdriver pivoted on shoe while t'other manipulated the snipe noses ! Bingo) anyhow at this point it dawned on me the backs do not have those ABS senders so much looking and listening brought me to wheel or diff bearings, nearside wheel and diff silent, diff full of oil, offside and stethoscope results in it being the wheel bearing making this noise.
Nipped over to my shrinking parts motor for the equivalent half shaft, and as much as anything a dry run - all OK except those 4 x 14mm screws holding the hub in, yes you can get a socket in but nothing in my armoury was shallow enough to drive it so combo spanner and lump hammer ruled and were they tight! ended up with severe lacerations to the hands until I realised the red stuff wasn't brake fluid, it was numerous razor cuts from the chrome plating coming off the spanner.
As the axles are different and having found a friendly owner of a hydraulic press prepared to let me use it after hours once his staff had left I've not tried the 'new' shaft but ordered a bearing kit, a QH, which doesn't have the inner seal, at worst I'll use the old or 'spare' whichever looks in nicest order.

So thanks for your confirmation I'm on the right track, I had one on a grossly overloaded 745 seize up solid on the road with no prior heat or audible warning (Not far from Dave fortunately as I had to be trailered back to Norwich), I was going to cut the ring off when the replacement arrived but we've had serious rain and I need a wetsuit and snorkel to get under the old girl today, fortunately I have transport to take the bits to the press, my other tractor is a 1958 Fordson Major
Still no solution to my cluster lights problem - don't the months go quickly...

Rather you than me trying anything on the car today Rick! Monsoon season came early to the Fens!

The bolts retaining the shoe hold-down springs are easy enough with a standard 1/2" drive 14 mm socket, seem to recall i put a 2' power bar on a short (2" or 3") extension that went through the access hole in the hub and sat on it.
There are advantages to being the perfect shape - round is a perfect shape is it not? No corners, angles or whatever, just a smooth, circular shape!

My vet keeps trying to tell me i'm over-weight, he won't have it that i'm just short for my body-mass!

Anyway, i digress!

Mix yourself up a fresh batch of WMP (50/50 acetone/synth ATF) and paint/squirt all the fasteners you've got to shift so it has a chance to soak in and really do some good work between now and when the weather next lets you attack it. Assuming you can turn the halfshaft, turn the hib so the access hole coincides with the bolts and you should be able to get a normal 14mm 1/2" drive socket between the hub and bolt heads easily enough then fit the extension through the access hole.



That shows the bit i'm trying to explain!

Loosening those bolts so the hold down spring is loose means you can have the shoes closer than they normally are so you can hook that fatherless spring in unaided then simply lever the brake shoe into position and do the hold-down spring up by means of those bolts.

I've got all this to come in the near future, had the MoT yesterday and picked up advisories on both front flexis. Also although not an advisory, i noticed (and so did the tester) that when the rear O/S wheel was turned there was a scrapy-squealy-springy noise and worse under handbrake use.
The discs look like a mountain range in profile and the shoes although having plenty of meat left on are starting to delaminate/crumble on the fritcion linings so i've just ordered a pair of disc/drums, set of handbrake shoes and a pair of front flexis.
The rear pads were new 3-4 years ago and i'm fairly light on my brakes so i'll inspect/decide on whether to fit new pads when i do the rest. If i'm lucky i'll get away with just lapping the pads on a sheet of sandpaper or similar, if not new rear pads are easily obtained (or were) for about a tenner so i might get a set to have on hand just in case.

Brake fluid change at the same time and should be all good for some years to come!