XC90 Buying Advice

[don logan]

Evening,

I'm considering buying an XC90 and have a budget of £8k. I've looked at some other 7 seat AWD's (Sorento, Touareg, Santa Fe, Shogun, Outlander, etc.) and the Volvo is clearly the nicest, but i'm aware that generally the more upmarket the car, the more that's likely to go expensively wrong. Especially with a circa 10yr old car.

Looking on Autotrader, £8k seems to get a 2010-2011 mid-specced model with under 100k on the clock. Were there still any common problems with these model years, or were the big ones generally ironed out by then? I don't mind a manual if it means not having to worry about an autobox dying. I'd be looking at the D5- any issues with D.M flywheels, DPF regeneration (or lack of), etc.?

I owned a D5 S60 a few years ago and was a bit surprised (pi$sed off) when the manual box gave up on being able to select reverse gear, the clutch slave cylinder died and the alarm and central locking started playing up at around 95k (I know this can happen on any car but didn't expect to be up for a new gearbox on an 8 year old car from a brand like Volvo).

I've got my eye on a few manual D5's with FSH, some mentioning cam belt replacement- is this 96k miles on the newer D5 (185?)?

I don't know if buying a higher end SUV on this kind of budget is a good idea or not, or whether i'd be safer with a newer (2014 Sorento for example) car for the same budget and just put up with the rougher engine and blander plastic interior and enjoy the potentially trouble free motoring, not to mention 40+ mpg, cheaper parts and repairs, etc.

Any advice?

Thanks

[XC90Mk1]

Originally Posted by don logan

Evening,

I'm considering buying an XC90 and have a budget of £8k. I've looked at some other 7 seat AWD's (Sorento, Touareg, Santa Fe, Shogun, Outlander, etc.) and the Volvo is clearly the nicest, but i'm aware that generally the more upmarket the car, the more that's likely to go expensively wrong. Especially with a circa 10yr old car.

Looking on Autotrader, £8k seems to get a 2010-2011 mid-specced model with under 100k on the clock. Were there still any common problems with these model years, or were the big ones generally ironed out by then? I don't mind a manual if it means not having to worry about an autobox dying. I'd be looking at the D5- any issues with D.M flywheels, DPF regeneration (or lack of), etc.?

I owned a D5 S60 a few years ago and was a bit surprised (pi$sed off) when the manual box gave up on being able to select reverse gear, the clutch slave cylinder died and the alarm and central locking started playing up at around 95k (I know this can happen on any car but didn't expect to be up for a new gearbox on an 8 year old car from a brand like Volvo).

I've got my eye on a few manual D5's with FSH, some mentioning cam belt replacement- is this 96k miles on the newer D5 (185?)?

I don't know if buying a higher end SUV on this kind of budget is a good idea or not, or whether i'd be safer with a newer (2014 Sorento for example) car for the same budget and just put up with the rougher engine and blander plastic interior and enjoy the potentially trouble free motoring, not to mention 40+ mpg, cheaper parts and repairs, etc.

Any advice?

Thanks

I bought a 2012 xc90 with 68k on the clock just over a year ago at £14,300. I have stuck 25,000 on it since.

The 2010 that you mention with the 185hp engine is generally considered as nearly as swift as the later 200hp models however poor on fuel economy. My 200hp version achieves 30mpg on mixed driving and 34 on motorway with relative ease. I would expect to nock 5mpg of that for the 185 version. Also be aware that certain models of the 185 (automatics) were over £500 to tax where as my auto is 330.

Running cost wise it is all down to servicing. The autos are sealed for life unless used for towing or hard conditions. At 70k I dropped and changed the fluid on mine and it was totally black, I understand this is normal. With changes at 50k etc these boxes are known to do 250k plus. Without the changes can be a little less predictable and suffer valve block blockage and gear box probs.

The haldex unit is considered reliable however will again depend on fluid changes. When used in other applications it’s a service item with changes at 30k for example, not sure why Volvo left it at it required.

Engine is solid as a rock. D5 lasts forever and is also used as the base for the penta marine engines with some mods.

You will be suprised how affordable spares are genuine Volvo, not cheap note, affordable. Rear discs, pads and shoes at around 100 quid. Brake fluid at around 11 quid and cambelt, idlers, tensioners, aux belt, tensioners and idler and water pump as a big set for 250 quid.

For me I do not know why you would buy a manual for a car like this. I would get an auto and change the fluid for less than 100quid and ecpect 200k from it.

Change the haldex fluid, they really can go forever. You can also buy Volvo VIDA DICE for not a lot of money which will allow you to identify faults.

I would conclsider stretching to the 200hp euro 5 version with 6 speed gear box from around 2011 and with some preventative maintenance you will have a hugely reliable car.

Do bear in mind that whilst it is true you can get substantial bills, this is likely to be more than offset by the fact that depreciation is very low for 90.

[binty]

I like the 185 engine, not tried the 200. just on 150k on mine. Averaging 32mpg, 37mpg last week on a long run. (less if you are a townie).
Mid spec is great. Leather, electric seats, auto wipers etc.
Friend bought manual, wished he had gone auto having driven mine. The auto just suits the car so well and the 6 speed is rock solid.
History and condition are everything.
Cam belt change due at 108k but surprisingly not very expensive using genuine parts.
Look up how to check if it has fault codes stored, something to do with pressing read and a fog light, will give you bargaining power when buying.
I bought mine 7 years ago, done 90k in it, would never normally keep a car this long but every time I need to go a long trip the new Merc stays in the garage and I take the XC90.
Plus it us the safest car on uk roads. ( no one has ever been killed in an XC90 in the uk).

[Moose Test]

Originally Posted by don logan

whether i'd be safer with a newer (2014 Sorento for example) car for the same budget

Any advice?

Yes. You're not going to get a 2014 Sorento for 8k (just look at Autotrader), so you need to compare like with like. That would mean both cars are circa 9-10 years old and both out of any manufacturer's warranty. You'll need to add about 3k to your budget to get a Sorento of that age, at which point you might want to still consider buying the 'quality' vehicle and retaining the additional 3k as budget for future repairs (which you will need at some point).

[don logan]

Thanks for the replies. Yes, looking at it, I was being a bit optimistic with the cost of a '14 Sorento. They actually seem to be around the same price as an XC90 for equivalent age.

Would it be fair to say that the Volvo would hold value better than one of the Korean/Jap alternatives?

Am I best buying new as possible, or older with lower mileage? I'd only go with one with FSH and receipts, etc. anyway, but wondering if i'd be better off steering clear of anything with higher mileage.

So the auto is sealed for life, but the fluid can be changed if wanted, though Volvo state that this isn't necessary (that's my understanding of being 'sealed for life')?. Does this mean that if i buy an auto and it's working correctly and appears to be in good nick, then i can change the fluid for £100 and expect the auto box to be good for another 50k? I'm a bit wary of the auto purely going by what i read on reviews online.

Thanks

[S60D5-185]

If you buy an auto ( after checking during the pre purchase test drive that the gearbox is perfect when thoroughly warmed through) then AS A MATTER OF COURSE change the fluid . This should give the box an excellent chance of remaining smooth and reliable.


Sealed for life is a bit of a misnomer and should never be accepted as correct.


Just get 20 ltrs of the correct fluid ( dependant on car model year ) and do it yourself.

It's very easy to do and you KNOW that it has been changed rather than paying for it to be done and hoping it was

[don logan]

Originally Posted by S60D5-185

If you buy an auto ( after checking during the pre purchase test drive that the gearbox is perfect when thoroughly warmed through) then AS A MATTER OF COURSE change the fluid . This should give the box an excellent chance of remaining smooth and reliable.

Thanks. Roughly how long would a test drive need to be to warm the gearbox right through? Is there anything other than the usual to look out for with these autos?

[xco]

I've got 2008 Se Lux D5 with all the toys you could ever want including 3rd row air-con and for a 185 (yes £540 road tax now unfortunately) i can get 28-30 in town and 32-37 on a run at 75ish and producing 400 nm of torque places it only 60 nm's less than the V8 so plenty of grunt when you need it!!!

Not a particularly quick pony off the mark but when you get it rolling you can get it into a quite acceptable "dont hang about" mode but treat it as a luxury cruiser and you cant go wrong.

Noisy rough engines ?? Na! Turn the music up. Give your tyres 39psi and you'll get years out of them not "A" year like some tyres i've had on other cars.

It would be a false economy to go up in years now just to get a few more miles return and a lower road tax so I just accept these things and enjoy the car.

Until I bought this all my volvos had been manual but now I wouldn't drive anything but a geartronic and dont forget you can knock it over into manual any time you like if you can be bothered once you have driven in auto mode.

Drive a 6 spd geartronic for a good test run and i bet you will wonder how you ever did without it. It is a very relaxing drive as many of us on here will support.

Good luck with your choice but nothing wrong with the 185 Se Lux if your budget tight.

Find yourself a good indie Volvo service tech and stick with him (usually recommended by word of mouth) dont go to a main stealer unless you have to.

Thats all I can say....Buy...Enjoy.