How to change engine mounts

[jetronic63]

Originally Posted by classicswede

The derv mounts are the stiffest ones. The scan tech mounts from my experiance tend to be short lived but with saying that I'm going back a few years so they could be better.

I'm going to be doing poly 240 mounts soon which are ideal as oil does not affect them.

I was going to put poly on when I redid mine but I was worried it would increase NVH. Nobody seemed to have a definitive answer on it so I went for rubber (Volvo) ones in the end and they are fine. I try and not get oil on it when I remove the filter and I guess they probably need doing every 5 years or so. The single biggest thing that reduced engine/gearstick movement on tickover was redoing the injector seals though !

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by MazakMan

Wow, that's the hard way to do it.

I always unbolt the lower alloy bracket from the crossmember and remove both alloy brackets and the rubber mount as one piece. Then change the mount and refit.
Never needed to take the alternator off either.

Isaac

That's the way I've always done it. Take the entire unit off, top and bottom brackets with the mount, and dismantle and reassemble on the bench.

Then bolt the top bracket back onto the engine block, and lower the jack until the three protruding bolts in the bottom bracket align with the holes in the cross member. It's quite easy at the point when the bolts are nearly engaging to lever the bracket against the springiness of the rubber and drop the jack the final inch.

The job is made much worse if the other mounting has gone too, because jacking the engine doesn't just pivot it about the sound mounting. There is then a danger of the whole engine slipping sideways off its mounts, and you end up with it supported on the jack but hopeless out of position and impossible to re-align.
I would always do the nearside mount first. There is less weight on it, the engine has less tendency to slip sideways, and once done the new mount gives a firm fulcrum for tilting the engine to do the other trickier mount.

[redboy]

That would explain why my engine slipped slightly although it was resting on the jack! Must have been the passenger side mount 'mushing'. I was lucky- it didn't break or slip off, but I can see how easy it could have! Good idea about doing the passenger side first. I didn't do it because the drivers side was so 'smooshed' down to under 1" thick- and with rubber puffing out the sides by about another 1/2" around- I was afraid it wouldn't hold the weight.

cheers,
Brian