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Fuses/Fuel Pump Relay

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Old Mar 12th, 2011, 10:32   #11
Patrick Garland
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Just a note to make sure you disconnect the battery before attempting to clean the contacts in the fuse box. Lots of sparks if you don't !!! (voice of experience ! ).

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Old Mar 12th, 2011, 11:32   #12
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Just a note to make sure you disconnect the battery before attempting to clean the contacts in the fuse box. Lots of sparks if you don't !!! (voice of experience ! ).

P
Important piece of advice!
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Old Mar 14th, 2011, 18:10   #13
Stephen Edwin
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I use a wire brush, the small brass type sold for cleaning suede shoes, to clean fuse contacts. I think an easier/better way would be to use a little rotary wire brush fitted to a Dremmel "drill/tool".
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 08:32   #14
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Hi all,

I have a question. I've seen many posts and much discussion about fuel relays and pumps, but they seem to come primarily from those that have fuel injected engines. I have a carburetor 2.3 engine, and I hear absolutely nothing pump-wise when i switch on ignition. Is this normal? Do carb engines have fuel relays and pumps in the same way. Fuel injected engines do? If the answer is 'yes', then why do I hear no pump noise, yet engine starts ok YET acceleration is terrible (occasional backfire on 2nd and 3rd gear) YET, on a long run i averaged over 30mpg?
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 11:38   #15
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Carburettored cars have a mechanical fuel pump fitted that is driven off the jackshaft for the distributor. If you look under the carburettor and just behind the distributor shaft you should see something resembling a small Stromberg with two pipes - one comes from the tank and the other goes to the carburettor. You can check its basic working by disconnecting the pipe to the carburettor and sticking the end of it into a milk bottle or other suitable container and cranking the engine over a couple of times: no fuel going into the bottle means no fuel going to the carburettor.

Your fuel consumption is impressive; the recalcitrance might be down to plug/leads needing adjustment or replacement, the proverbial "Stage Zero" tune-up.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 12:53   #16
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Hi Loki_the_glt I take it that means no in tank pump too?

If you can confirm, I'll copy that snippet on my in tank pump replacement thread if that's okay?
Thanks.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 13:58   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul240480 View Post
Hi Loki_the_glt I take it that means no in tank pump too?

If you can confirm, I'll copy that snippet on my in tank pump replacement thread if that's okay?
Thanks.
no only a mechanical pump ,on mine the input from the tank goes to the pump and the pumps outlet goes to a plastic cylinder before going to the carb ,the cylinder sits almost out of sight under the manifold ,i presume it stops bubbles of air going to the carb?.
when i got the car the fuel filter was on the pipe from the pump to the cylinder which i thoough was strange so i moved the filter to the pump inlet where theres room to see it and more importantly fit a new one with ease

i lost my running lights Thursday ,i found their fuse melted and all of the connections covered in verdigris ,a good clean and a squirt of corrosion inhibitor should see it through the winter ,it (the corrosion of the fuse holders)may also have caused the wiper blades to hesitate here and there in the rain as they are fine now

My DL with its cisac doesn't have the large petrol filter that sits near the bonnet hinge in some ,i also spotted a surprising thing ,if the fuels pumped to the carb you can fit a larger filter but if you have a mechanical pump which sucks fuel from the tank it has problems creating enough vacuum to get petrol past the filter and the filter never fills with petrol (theres just enough for the engine to run though),a small filter is fine ,you have to replace it more often though ,i spotted the problem when the car acted strange in fast acceleration

Last edited by chesters6; Jul 24th, 2011 at 14:09.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 14:19   #18
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Thanks loki. That's been a tremendous help. Also saved me huge amount of time looking for something that doesn't exist. It seems the only fuse for the mechanical pump is the ceramic one in front passenger footwell.

Leads will be checked. Along with distributor and motor ARM when I've a chance.

Another question or two: do you know if the mechanical pumps are servicable? And, could retarding the idle contribute to reasonable mph (i did drive like a very old man!) and poor acceleration? I suspect previous owner slowed idle and I DARE NOT mess with the Solex CISAC carb for reasons described on this site and others. This retardation of idle cannot have been done to limit pinking as the engine is set for unleaded.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 14:52   #19
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Quote:
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Thanks loki. That's been a tremendous help. Also saved me huge amount of time looking for something that doesn't exist. It seems the only fuse for the mechanical pump is the ceramic one in front passenger footwell.
.
I suspect that the fuse actually covers something else, but don't know what as the pump is totally mechanical.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 14:54   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul240480 View Post
Hi Loki_the_glt I take it that means no in tank pump too?

If you can confirm, I'll copy that snippet on my in tank pump replacement thread if that's okay?
Thanks.
Indeed it does mean no in-tank pump. And fame (if no fortune) with a mention in someone else's replacment process thread, so thank you Paul240480.
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