Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General

Notices

S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Clutch pedal not returning

Views : 1818

Replies : 8

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Sep 17th, 2020, 19:48   #1
contrarian
Member
 

Last Online: Jun 11th, 2023 23:45
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Glasgow
Default Clutch pedal not returning

Recently acquired project V70 D5. Seemed to drive fine on journey home until I stopped at a set of lights. As the lights changed I tried to engage 1st and it wasn't happy, like the clutch wasn't fully disengaged. It wasn't as it turns out as once i had managed to get first the car was creeping forward with clutch pedal still fully depressed.

Had to pull clutch pedal up by hand then car behaved normally although I was careful not to hold the pedal down for any longer than absolutely necessary as I know that I'm losing hydraulic pressure somewhere.

I'm really hoping that it's an internal leak in the master cylinder rather than the concentric slave. Although this car was bought as a minor project to amuse myself I definitely hadn't planned on pulling the box out.

Thoughts/advice appreciated
George
contrarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sep 19th, 2020, 23:16   #2
R-P
Master Member
 

Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 15:00
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Rozenburg NL
Default

I drive an auto. That should inspire confidence...

But I've been battling a problem with a Hyundai clutch. It is a fairly simple system: it is a pull type clutch, so there is a part that pulls really hard against the springs of the pressure plate. Once you apply enough pressure (actually pulling force), the clutch is disengaged (or engaged? semantics) so the turning flywheel is no longer in contact with the gearbox.

These springs from the pressure plate cause the pedal to return to the upright position via the hydraulic pressure. Unless I open the bleedingscrew on the secondary cylinder, then the pedal stays down.

So if the Volvo system is similar to this, I would check 3 parts:

First the fluid level: the Hyundai has a combined brake and clutch brake-fluid container. The inlet of the clutch is much higher up (so the clutch stops working long before the brake does when you start loosing fluid). But what we found is that it starts sucking in air when the fluid level is 1cm ABOVE the inlet. I would have to cut it open to figure out why, but I think it has to do with the maze-like structure inside the container (to prevent slushing around???).

Second is the bleeder screw. Is it tightened correctly? Or any leaks (fluid) anywhere in the system?

Third is the main cylinder: Once we had it out and free of fluid, I could feel it putting pressure on the output, not on the fluid input. This was when I pushed IN the cylinder. When I pulled it out, it would suck in air through the inlet. There is a valve in the inlet that closes when the cylinder builds up pressure and opens (to let in fresh fluid) when it releases pressure. Keeping both inlet and outlet sealed off with your fingers, you can check if that valve works correctly. It could still leak a little, but I think you would likely notice a big leak.

Hope this helps. I'm a noob in clutches, but I hope my new found understanding, however little, may be of use to you.
__________________
Ex police Jan '04 V70 D5 AWD geartronic, and I've got the antenna-holes to prove it.


Last edited by R-P; Sep 19th, 2020 at 23:19.
R-P is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to R-P For This Useful Post:
Old Sep 20th, 2020, 01:03   #3
Darlo 1
Lunatic.
 
Darlo 1's Avatar
 

Last Online: Yesterday 00:01
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: staffordshire
Default

Slave cylinders are a known weak point on the s60/v70, there is a little drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing, check there to see if you have fluid dripping out.
__________________
V40 1.9D 2004
620 miles to the tankful.
235000 miles on clock. Now sold,
S60 D5 2004.
I vape therefore I am.
Darlo 1 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Darlo 1 For This Useful Post:
Old Sep 20th, 2020, 10:00   #4
liaty
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Oct 13th, 2023 17:02
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Workington
Default

My S80 (2005) has a similar issue. I will keep you up to date as I check things out. It's in for MOT at the moment and garage are having a look over it.
liaty is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to liaty For This Useful Post:
Old Sep 20th, 2020, 15:55   #5
R-P
Master Member
 

Last Online: Mar 26th, 2024 15:00
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Rozenburg NL
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by R-P View Post
Third is the main cylinder: Once we had it out and free of fluid, I could feel it putting pressure on the output, not on the fluid input. This was when I pushed IN the cylinder. When I pulled it out, it would suck in air through the inlet. There is a valve in the inlet that closes when the cylinder builds up pressure and opens (to let in fresh fluid) when it releases pressure. Keeping both inlet and outlet sealed off with your fingers, you can check if that valve works correctly. (When pushing the cylinder IN you should feel build-up of airpressure on the OUTPUT. After releasing this pressure, when you pul OUT the piston, you should feel a (partial) vacuum on both the INLET and the OUTLET of the fluid, sucking in the skin on your fingers.) It could still leak a little without you noticing, but I think you would likely notice a big leak.
Rereading, I think that the red parts make it a little clearer. If not, blame it on the language barrier...
__________________
Ex police Jan '04 V70 D5 AWD geartronic, and I've got the antenna-holes to prove it.

R-P is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to R-P For This Useful Post:
Old Sep 29th, 2020, 23:41   #6
contrarian
Member
 

Last Online: Jun 11th, 2023 23:45
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Glasgow
Default

Have checked for leaks and found none. I intentionally pumped the clutch pedal for a while to see if the level in the reservoir dropped at all and it didn't.

If the pedal is pressed and immediately fully released all is well. The problem only arises when the pedal is held fully or partially down for any length of time.

For example my garage is very small and has stuff all along one side so I have to reverse in at an angle and park the car tight to the other wall. As I was doing this today the biting point was getting closer and closer to the floor until i had to knock it out of gear and hook the pedal back up with my foot.

One thing I will say though is that the fluid in the reservoir is filthy. Planning on a full flush once I've verified all bleed nipples are free.

Cheers
George
contrarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Sep 30th, 2020, 01:11   #7
oragex
Premier Member
 
oragex's Avatar
 

Last Online: Jul 26th, 2021 22:24
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Coldnada
Default

Non returning pedal is typical failed slave cylinder. Can you return the car at this point ?
__________________
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ECTts0FSVSOT_c
oragex is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to oragex For This Useful Post:
Old Sep 30th, 2020, 01:52   #8
contrarian
Member
 

Last Online: Jun 11th, 2023 23:45
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Glasgow
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by oragex View Post
Non returning pedal is typical failed slave cylinder. Can you return the car at this point ?
Unfortunately not. I bought it from a private party with a DPF/EGR fault which was disclosed. They didn't disclose the clutch problem and I didn't notice it prior to the transaction.
contrarian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Nov 18th, 2023, 12:53   #9
Mike Venables
New Member
 

Last Online: Nov 18th, 2023 12:56
Join Date: Nov 2023
Location: Clevedon
Default 2010 S80 Diesel.clutch pedal not fully returning.

Car covered 77k miles all ok..recently clutch pedal would not fully return but can move with foot! The actual clutch operation/selecting gear is fine and can drive car ok. Garage says needs a complete clutch replacement especially slave cylinder..3 days/6 hours work at £???? !! Any ideas, please and thanks. Mike V.
Mike Venables is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:11.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.