Gambling on a 6 speed 2006 v70 d5

[Millie20]

Hello folks,

First off, if this isn't the correct place for this thread, apologies.

I'm a bit of a risk taker by nature (read - impulsive), I've benefited many times, but it's also burned me.

I over paid for a 6 speed 2006 v70 d5 at the weekend which came with one stamp in a replacement book from 120k service in 2018. It's the model I've been after (7 seater), and when I test drove it, it ran like a top.

She's got 133k miles on her now, and a sticker for the cam belt at 92k.

Upon leaving the dealers car park, I realised why the drivers side window had been down when I arrived. Auto up didn't work. Manual up did, and I've since figured out how to re calibrate.

About 30 mi in to my drive down the M1 to S London from Northampton, I got a low oil light warning. My mind started racing towards an oil bomb under the bonnet. Sigh.. Thankfully no. Topped it up with over priced oil from a services, and away I went, with a bit more trepidation.

10 mi from home, I opened her up on an on ramp to an A road. Not being used to the short first and second gear, the tach needle bounced off the red line (****). Immediately after, I received the "Soot Filter Full" warning, and was gently introduced to limp mode in my first day with the car.

Needless to say, I was cursing my impulsive purchase when I walked in to see the missus with my tail between my legs.

After a bit of research, including pricing out a new dpf (WTF?), I crossed my fingers that the dpf needed a regen drive. Off we went as a family (6 month old daughter) in our new, questionable car. To my surprise, and delight she was no longer in limp mode - my spirits lifted.

After a quick jaunt on the M25, I was elated again. This car is an absolute pleasure to drive. Truthfully, I am in love. Upon closer inspection, under the bonnet is very clean, and looks well maintained for a 15 year old car.

Ok, sorry for the dramatic intro, but here's why I'm posting.

I think we can agree that I'm an idiot for buying this car without a service history.

What I'd like to do is build some peace of mind with some at home servicing

Enter Eurocarparts sale.

Oil Castrol edge 0w30 A5/B5 and Mann filter
Mann Fuel filter
Mann Air filter
Bosch Cabin filter

I've checked the Aux belt, it looks brand new. As mentioned above, the cam belt was changed at 92k.

What I'd like to know is if there's anything else I should be looking at or doing to add to my peace of mind? Transmission fluid?

I'm a willing (read reckless) home mechanic, having worked on motorcycles for years. Cars are new to me, but I'm happy to have a go before inevitably having her towed to a professional.

Two questions.

Upon inspecting the engine bay, I found what looked like a tiny bit of what I assume is fresh oil here.


https://imgur.com/tQT2qGI

Anything to worry about? Could it just have been spilled? Might it be something other than oil?

Next one:

What in the name of Christmas is this hose for?


https://imgur.com/wQqL5h0

The build quality on this Volvo is second to none. Something tells me a bolt in the end of a hose is not factory spec.

It ends up here after going through a T connector.


https://imgur.com/lfDSx9G

Sorry for the long read. Appreciate any and all guidance.

Dave

Edit - Apologies for the massive images.

[Georgeandkira]

Hello,

How low on oil were you?
Just goes to show you how much these dealers actually care.

A transmission drain & fill is "equipment basic" and gives you a look at the fluid a mere 'white rag wipe' doesn't.

You should inspect the parking brake shoes. This requires removing (not disconnecting) the rear calipers so you can get the rotors off. 'Tis the only way.
Decide if new shoes and hardware is necessary then.

Clean the bleed nipples with a wire brush and apply drops of penetrant for your brake fluid flush WHICH YOU SHOULD DO.

Get a 7mm allen wrench bit for your 3/8" drive. Remove, clean and regrease your glide pins. There's no doubt they are dry. Use a real brake grease product.

Each of the pins has it's own boot and cap. The caps can be missing and the boots can take a beating. My '02 had two caps missing and one boot was chewed halfway away. Replacements pull through from the inside of the bracket. It's self explanatory.

Clean and pretreat the front bleed nipples in the same way when you're there.
Inspect brake hoses at each wheel for cracks while doing this.

Go in back and make sure the spare tiyre (new US/UK way to spell it) and jack are all there. Take a look at our funky jack's functioning and get a wheel chock if none is there. Also check the locations of the 4 jacking points.

With cooler weather on the way it's mandatory to carefully inspect (load test) the battery.
If you take to playing with a charger for whatever reason, do that with the battery outside the car.

Remember, attaching a charger and walking away does NOT constitute a full battery inspection.

See what kind of shape your coolant is in. A separate test is to open the coolant reservoir and sniff for exhaust smell.

Make sure all your exhaust hangers are in place.

Others will be along shortly with diesel specific advice.

Best of luck

[T5R92011]

The hose pipe highlighted is is a vaccum line that runs from the mechanical vaccum pump, to a plastic T-piece that then feeds both the front and rear vaccum engine mounts. The vaccum alters the stiffness of the engine mounts at idle to decrease the vibrations from the engine into the cabin.

When the engine mounts wear, they will no-longer hold a vaccum and you will know this because you hear a loud continous popping noise if you remove the oil filler cap with the engine running.

By putting a screw in the end of the pipe, you are restoring vaccum to the system and the noise will disappear.

On the older Euro 3 D5 engines (163 with no DPF), the vaccum system also operated the vanes on the turbo, meaning a vaccum leak would reduce performance, however on the Euro 4 D5s (Yours), the turbo vanes are actuated electronically, so putting the screw in doesn't affect turbo performance on those.

Essentially, the front or rear engine mount will be worn.

Look on Youtube for SiRobb's videos on D5 engine mounts if you want to sort it.

[TLPower]

First off an excellent choice of vehicle.

Second off, Euro Car Parts have a sale on?

I'm still waiting for a sale at DFS.

[Millie20]

Originally Posted by Georgeandkira

Hello,

How low on oil were you?
Just goes to show you how much these dealers actually care.

A transmission drain & fill is "equipment basic" and gives you a look at the fluid a mere 'white rag wipe' doesn't.

You should inspect the parking brake shoes. This requires removing (not disconnecting) the rear calipers so you can get the rotors off. 'Tis the only way.
Decide if new shoes and hardware is necessary then.

Clean the bleed nipples with a wire brush and apply drops of penetrant for your brake fluid flush WHICH YOU SHOULD DO.

Get a 7mm allen wrench bit for your 3/8" drive. Remove, clean and regrease your glide pins. There's no doubt they are dry. Use a real brake grease product.

Each of the pins has it's own boot and cap. The caps can be missing and the boots can take a beating. My '02 had two caps missing and one boot was chewed halfway away. Replacements pull through from the inside of the bracket. It's self explanatory.

Clean and pretreat the front bleed nipples in the same way when you're there.
Inspect brake hoses at each wheel for cracks while doing this.

Go in back and make sure the spare tiyre (new US/UK way to spell it) and jack are all there. Take a look at our funky jack's functioning and get a wheel chock if none is there. Also check the locations of the 4 jacking points.

With cooler weather on the way it's mandatory to carefully inspect (load test) the battery.
If you take to playing with a charger for whatever reason, do that with the battery outside the car.

Remember, attaching a charger and walking away does NOT constitute a full battery inspection.

See what kind of shape your coolant is in. A separate test is to open the coolant reservoir and sniff for exhaust smell.

Make sure all your exhaust hangers are in place.

Others will be along shortly with diesel specific advice.

Best of luck

Thanks for the detailed response, much appreciated.

Oil was just below the low Mark on the dipstick. I added 2L to get it about 2/3rds up. Not great, and hopefully not a sign of an oil drinker. I've read a new fuel filter might help (don't quite understand how), and certainly new oil and filter are top priorities.

I know from recent MOT advisories that the discs and hoses were done in 2019. The nearside front ball joint was done last week to pass a fresh MOT and the offside was done in 2017

Ok, so to summarise. Brakes, Brakes, brakes.

Check parking brake calipers.
Clean bleed nipples.
Flush brake fluid
Grease glide pins - Any recommendation on grease? Lithium, copper?

Spare tiyre (I like that) is in the boot with Jack and tools.
Will need a chock. Am looking for Adel stands as we'll, so on my list.

Checking the battery is a good shout.

Coolant looks and smells ok.

The most read hanger looks like It's on It's way out.

Once again, appreciate the guidance.

[Millie20]

Originally Posted by T5R92011

The hose pipe highlighted is is a vaccum line that runs from the mechanical vaccum pump, to a plastic T-piece that then feeds both the front and rear vaccum engine mounts. The vaccum alters the stiffness of the engine mounts at idle to decrease the vibrations from the engine into the cabin.

When the engine mounts wear, they will no-longer hold a vaccum and you will know this because you hear a loud continous popping noise if you remove the oil filler cap with the engine running.

By putting a screw in the end of the pipe, you are restoring vaccum to the system and the noise will disappear.

On the older Euro 3 D5 engines (163 with no DPF), the vaccum system also operated the vanes on the turbo, meaning a vaccum leak would reduce performance, however on the Euro 4 D5s (Yours), the turbo vanes are actuated electronically, so putting the screw in doesn't affect turbo performance on those.

Essentially, the front or rear engine mount will be worn.

Look on Youtube for SiRobb's videos on D5 engine mounts if you want to sort it.

Ah, interesting. So if I remove the bolt/screw will I notice more movement? Where would that end of the hose attach to normally? Or would it usually be open?

I hadn't budgeted for mounts. I'll try to have a closer look next weekend. Appreciate I should be looking for worn/cracked rubber, but wouldn't I notice excessive vibration in the cabin if they were shot?

I'd come across SiRobb previously, great channel.

Excellent insight. Thanks for taking the time.

[Millie20]

Originally Posted by TLPower

First off an excellent choice of vehicle.

Second off, Euro Car Parts have a sale on?

I'm still waiting for a sale at DFS.

Thank you. Very pleased thus far.

I see what you did there. I did kind of wonder why it was called the mid month sale.

[Kev0607]

Originally Posted by Millie20

Thanks for the detailed response, much appreciated.

Oil was just below the low Mark on the dipstick. I added 2L to get it about 2/3rds up. Not great, and hopefully not a sign of an oil drinker. I've read a new fuel filter might help (don't quite understand how), and certainly new oil and filter are top priorities.

I know from recent MOT advisories that the discs and hoses were done in 2019. The nearside front ball joint was done last week to pass a fresh MOT and the offside was done in 2017

Ok, so to summarise. Brakes, Brakes, brakes.

Check parking brake calipers.
Clean bleed nipples.
Flush brake fluid
Grease glide pins - Any recommendation on grease? Lithium, copper?

Spare tiyre (I like that) is in the boot with Jack and tools.
Will need a chock. Am looking for Adel stands as we'll, so on my list.

Checking the battery is a good shout.

Coolant looks and smells ok.

The most read hanger looks like It's on It's way out.

Once again, appreciate the guidance.

Nice car.

Change the transmission fluid (drain & fill). Use the correct spec fluid specified by Volvo & nothing else.

I use silicone grease (its a clear gel) on the slider pins, to protect the rubber boots around them. Copper grease eats the rubber, so don't use that.

Cambelt has been done, aux belt looks in decent condition. I don't suppose you know whether the aux belt tensioner has been replaced? If that part fails, there won't be any tension on the aux belt & that can wrap into the timing belt = serious costly repairs.

Personally, I wouldn't take chances & replace the tensioner, for your own peace of mind. If you find some paperwork or a receipt of some sort, then leave it as is. If not, replace the part with a genuine Volvo one.

[Bashy]

In the 1st image guys, should i mention leaking injectors or move away from this thread and bother someone else?

[simonwedge]

A few comments/observations:

The oil near the injectors may be the result of an injector leak but that usually shows itself as a hard sticky black residue rather than fresh oil. May just be the result of over enthusiastic filling. I'd clear it up and keep an eye on it.

I'd recommend only filling the oil level to 1/2 way on the dipstick in future, this is to allow for diesel making it's way into the sump after failed DPF regens. I think Volvo even put a sticker on some of the cars recommending this.

Use ceramic grease on the brake sliders.

The vacuum tubes fit onto a little nipple on top of the front and rear engine mounts. If you look down the gap in front of the engine you'll see the front mount quite clearly - it's shaped like a metal grapefruit. The rear one is harder to see. If you're changing these get a decent quality one. SiRobb has a video on Youtube about how to check and change these.

Change the fuel filter as well - it's under the car at the back (under the passenger door). Once you've changed it turn the ignition on without starting the car and leave it on for about 10 seconds. Do this 5 or 6 times before attempting to actually start the car and it primes the system with diesel.

Rear exhaust repair kits are here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-S60...oAAMXQvtZQ3yQe